XBS

iTrader: (29)

I have always used Mobil 1 0-40 (different from other Mobil1 synthetic oils) various oil analysis conducted by many member and some of my personal friends several years back showed this was one of the best oils to run. One test a friend did showed that it did not begin to break down until 10k miles of use in a daily driver! (along with a now discontinued Castrol made in germany)

I use Rotella T6 in my diesel and have been for many years, it has been great over 100k miles putting down over 1000 ft lbs. of torque

jerryd87

iTrader: (4)

From oberlin and some of those shops are damn busy especially motorheads and speed freaks. Pc automotive is in oberlin on oberlin elyria road right after rt 511. motor heads is the legrange exit on rt 20 and if you want headwork done outside dsms/evos they are THE place to go in the area. They are right next to the church you turn left coming off rt 20 from oberlin direction. Hell it was two weeks before they could even touch my heads when i took em in for bigger valves. Speed freaks is on rt 113 just a little bit before jamies flee market. Howice and dewitt or w/e it is called, cant remember exactl,y is on rt 57 just past 113 on the left hand side its set back from the road about 100 yards. I only went there once because they only charged me 5 bucks to press new bearings on my rear diff on my blazer. No offense but in the area theres very few car guys who dont know about at least one of these shops, buschers is in wakeman and its a small town are you saying you live in wakeman or buschers is in wakeman because i know where they are....... There are cars built by all of them at norwalk on a regular basis............. I can tell you right now pc(which stands for paul coal built a 427 cobra jet for my dad stuck in a pinto he sold it after taking it down the track without wheelie bars, said it scared the **** outa him, that was about 25-26 years ago.) automotive will tell you right to your face your a fool if you think what type of oil dosnt matter. Hes a pretty blunt guy =/ at least he was with me thats why he got my business for the block cleaning and boring.

rcdash

iTrader: (18)

Eneous 0W-50 isn't very good. It comes through as a 40 weight oil, higher than avg wear, and burns up quickly.

350zion

iTrader: (58)

I read that 56 page thread n came up empty handed.. This has always been a question. So recently I took a trip to a well known shop n the techs there had only this advice..
Use thick in the summer thin in the winter... Castrol or Pennzoil... No synthetic jus good old conventional oil....

Next oil change I think IM gonna try that...

I have been using RP for years.. N/ A and now boosted... Id really like a definitive answer but I don't think there is one... Use wat u prefer or trust...

suprasam

I used Eneos for 2x oil changes and ended up adding ~2 qrts each times between 3k intervals. My UOA was still good though, maybe because of the added oil. Went back to motul 15/50 this last change and have only added 1.5 quarts, but I've was working my catch can plumbing which drew/spewed a lot of oil. I think I've worked that issue out. Looking forward to my next UOA and oil change.

350z006

iTrader: (79)

I recently started using Schaffer's 9000 from what I had read on the forums and recommendation from one of my mechanics...any new info to say otherwise?

derekinthez

iTrader: (32)

Shops probably won't respond becuase time equals money and how would they market this info to make money? Besides, isn't there a complete write up in a thread that analyze all the major oils used with the vq?

djamps

iTrader: (1)

I doubt shops are going to throw their two cents in when the 'community' is on a witch hunt... I mean seriously...I wouldn't want to throw any recommendations out there when people are gonna say 'oh you recommended this crap and now my bearing are spun WTF'.

I think the fail is crappy builds not oil choice..getting all worked up on oil is a lost cause IMO. That guy on AIM pretty much said it.

str8dum1

iTrader: (11)

+1, no shop is gonna respond for that exact reason.

You have stated you have business relations with multiple shops that are doing your build. Why not post what they told you whats right for your motor.

eltness350

iTrader: (58)

I was "suggested" from sharif at forged to use Motul 300v Chrono 10-40 .....so thats what I use....

Cass007

iTrader: (34)

I'm using 10w30 and may switch to the 20w50 before the airstrip. What is your idle set at? My pressure was at 30psi when the idle was ~1100-1200rpm. Cold start is 90psi as well.

IMO there is no "wrong" oil, I've spun mains on at least 3 different kinds

ToastZ

iTrader: (2)

I highly doubt any shop will "require" a specific brand of oil. I'm on my second car with Sharif and both have done very well on Motul brands. I track the GTR and use the mobil 1 factory fill for the off season and use 5W-40 300V Motul for track use. Get a blackstone analysis done at least once a year to try and stay ahead of any issues, etc..

Motul is not a great daily driver oil but I think it does rather well on the track. You can also mix oils, there are GTR owners on NAGTROC that mix oils and post analysis for the forum.

Good luck, just make sure you have fresh oil in the car before track use. For street, use the mobil 0W-40 oil that is appoved by NISSAN. Motul brand is also used by the NISSAN Motorsports Division I believe so some comfort in that I guess

http://www.nismo.co.jp/en/products/c...oil/index.html

midz350

iTrader: (4)

I may try the Castrol 10W60 next time. weather temp here is 120°F (50°C) in the summer.

From BMW M3 forum:

Driven1

iTrader: (2)

I personally don't care about a shops "opinion" on oil....

I was hoping this would be an educated discussion on oil types and brands while referencing our particular set ups/cars. These aren't factory cars anymore, they aren't getting any newer, and many who are looking at this have a built motor which requires different care imo. These cars run hot when FI'd and this could be something to help a lot of people. I think there is enough knowledge base and experience here to discuss this even without "shops".

Cass, I run right around the psi you do both hot and cold. I started with Motul 300V 10w-40 for a while but it's not convenient for me to get and my car eats a slight amount oil so I need to top off from time to time (always has). This winter I switched to RP 10W-40 bc it was free and have thought to switching to Mobile1 and possibly playing with the weight a little bit.

chrisjersey06

iTrader: (35)

I was told directly from 2 shop owners that they use off-the-shelf Mobil 1 in their FI Z's (stock motors, not built), so that is what I use. I won't say the name of the shops, for the reason that was said above about them not wanting to be blamed for recommending something that can cause the same type of failures as many unrelated factors. I will say that they are sponsors on here, and well known. I personally use 5w30 year round, and am sending oil out for analysis next week just because I am curious as to how well it is holding up. I will be sure to post up the results.

That oil was designed by BMW for M cars, and can only be purchased at BMW dealers, or online at places like Turner Motorsports, ECS Tuning, etc. I used it in my E46 M3 and its good stuff, but not sure that its the best option for Z's.

ttg35fort

iTrader: (2)

The best educated discussion on oil for our cars that I have seen is here:

https://my350z.com/forum/engine-and-...-and-info.html

That thread was started 4 years ago, so it may be a little dated as new oils may have come out since then. It has been updated with new posts over the years, but I have not reveiwed all of them.

Based on my interpretation of that thread (as of the last time I thoroughly reviewed it, which was some time ago), the oils that showed the most promise for boosted VQ motors are Mobile 1 "0W-40" and Shell Rotella T-Syn "5W-40".

meatbag

iTrader: (9)

Brad Penn oil.

superchargedg

iTrader: (4)

Ill stick with the mobil 1 0w40 ive been running for the last 8 years.

Gingervitis526

iTrader: (19)

CIN recommended I use 4 quarts of Mobil 1 5w-30 and 1 quart of synthetic Lucus oil stabilizer.

psychoballistic

iTrader: (8)

I've used Q horsepower 10w-30 and car quest 10w-30 for over three years more then two of which have been boosted and no complaints or issues... I have continued to use them in my built setup now too, still no issues knock on wood...

To what cass said about no wrong oil, I would agree with that. As long as you change your oil on a regular basis and check up on it, most will never have an issue.