*ATTENTION SHOPS!* What oil do you use & recommend???
My idle is set at 800 rpms. The only thing I worry about is cold start lubrication with a 20 weight oil. Maybe in the summer it's ok.
Last edited by rcdash; Apr 17, 2011 at 06:56 AM.
Will
It is high-tack, but it also foams badly and introduces air into the oil, which naturally inhibits hydrodynamic lubrication. I wouldn't ever use it, and I think if you search the internet on Lucas oil additive foaming, you might be convinced to discontinue using it.
Will
Will
-George
Will
Wow, simple and effective test. I would love to see that, is it on youtube for any chance?
I know so many people that swear my lucas additives, I have never been a fan of any commercial additive. It is funny when you try to tell them they don't need it and how defensive they get.
If it cost money it must be good right?
I know so many people that swear my lucas additives, I have never been a fan of any commercial additive. It is funny when you try to tell them they don't need it and how defensive they get.
If it cost money it must be good right?
Wow, simple and effective test. I would love to see that, is it on youtube for any chance?
I know so many people that swear my lucas additives, I have never been a fan of any commercial additive. It is funny when you try to tell them they don't need it and how defensive they get.
If it cost money it must be good right?
I know so many people that swear my lucas additives, I have never been a fan of any commercial additive. It is funny when you try to tell them they don't need it and how defensive they get.
If it cost money it must be good right?
Will
It is high-tack, but it also foams badly and introduces air into the oil, which naturally inhibits hydrodynamic lubrication. I wouldn't ever use it, and I think if you search the internet on Lucas oil additive foaming, you might be convinced to discontinue using it.
Will
Will
I hope other shops follow your example.
The fact that most shops see this and read this but dont share such simple info is exactly why this community is fawking weaksauce and so far behind others even after 8 years.
Fawk all you slow f@ggots
Fawk all you slow f@ggots
I run Valvoline VR-1 racing oil. It has good zinc content. Rotellas formula was changed a few years back and its pretty much normal oil. If you don't have cats you wanna get the VR1 in the black bottle. It has really high zinc content and kills cats. Thats the stuff I run.
Last edited by SnyperZ; May 8, 2011 at 06:31 PM.
It's very difficult to have a thread like this and come out with a cohesive answer. It will be very subjective, based upon the clearances that the engine was set up to during assembly by the builder/machinist. Those clearances are based on a number of factors including the parts used (pistons/rods), the bearings used (stock, aftermarket, if aftermarket, which), and the intended rpm range. This is also why all the UOA results in the world don't tend to reveal much aside from a marketing campaign, unless you have a very, very broad cross section of engines (all prepared the same way) to compare results against. I don't think most failures out there can be traced to one oil being used over another. Tends to be due to just a badly built engine
The best advise is simply go back to your source. Use the oil(s), and viscosity recommended by whomever actually assembled your engine. Not the person who sold you the engine, not the person who sold you the parts, but the person who actually put it together. They will have their own go-to favorites based on the specifics of that engine build.
Not FI, but for my VQ, my machinist made a very specific oil recommendation, and I've stuck by it since completing the break in (2007). Royal Purple XPR 20/50 with a WIX filter. I'm sure there are others that he would be totally fine with me using as well, but this stuff is readily available for me, so it's all I've ever used. If he told me I could run Wolfs Head, or whatever other brand, I'd use it. Ultimately it's his engine, and it's what he is paid to be the expert on. I just follow his directions. 4 years later and the engine runs great, and has not given me any issues. Doesn't use any oil, oil pressure is always consistent no matter what the weather, and I change it every 2500-3000 just because of the rpms I run. Overkill I'm sure, but it's worked, so its just superstitiously what I do.
However, on other engines of mine that he has built, he has had different recommendations...and in some cases (like for our BMW ITS cars), they were always done around being able to use a more 'normal' off the shelf dino (which for us is typically Castrol GTX 10w30, since you can get it anywhere you happen to be). These engines were never exotic internally mind you, they just needed to last at least a seasons worth.
The best advise is simply go back to your source. Use the oil(s), and viscosity recommended by whomever actually assembled your engine. Not the person who sold you the engine, not the person who sold you the parts, but the person who actually put it together. They will have their own go-to favorites based on the specifics of that engine build.
Not FI, but for my VQ, my machinist made a very specific oil recommendation, and I've stuck by it since completing the break in (2007). Royal Purple XPR 20/50 with a WIX filter. I'm sure there are others that he would be totally fine with me using as well, but this stuff is readily available for me, so it's all I've ever used. If he told me I could run Wolfs Head, or whatever other brand, I'd use it. Ultimately it's his engine, and it's what he is paid to be the expert on. I just follow his directions. 4 years later and the engine runs great, and has not given me any issues. Doesn't use any oil, oil pressure is always consistent no matter what the weather, and I change it every 2500-3000 just because of the rpms I run. Overkill I'm sure, but it's worked, so its just superstitiously what I do.
However, on other engines of mine that he has built, he has had different recommendations...and in some cases (like for our BMW ITS cars), they were always done around being able to use a more 'normal' off the shelf dino (which for us is typically Castrol GTX 10w30, since you can get it anywhere you happen to be). These engines were never exotic internally mind you, they just needed to last at least a seasons worth.
Last edited by Z1 Performance; May 9, 2011 at 11:43 AM.
Theres 2 different versions of the VR-1. The silver bottle is the "street" version of the oil and is okay to use with cats(which means there might be some zinc but not a lot) the black bottled VR-1 says "for race use only" and if you look on the back it specifically says not to use on street cars. Thats because there is a much higher zinc contend and it will destroy your cats over time. I use the black bottle. It was recommended by a local well respected engine builder and many that I know of and Ive been using it for a while with no issues. I guess in the end it comes down to personal preference but I was just sharing my opinion. I run a lot of power through this engine(733 last year on the stock block and over 1k this year on the stroker motor) and the oil has served me well so far.
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Joined: Jan 2011
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From: Albuquerque
It's very difficult to have a thread like this and come out with a cohesive answer. It will be very subjective, based upon the clearances that the engine was set up to during assembly by the builder/machinist. Those clearances are based on a number of factors including the parts used (pistons/rods), the bearings used (stock, aftermarket, if aftermarket, which), and the intended rpm range. This is also why all the UOA results in the world don't tend to reveal much aside from a marketing campaign, unless you have a very, very broad cross section of engines (all prepared the same way) to compare results against. I don't think most failures out there can be traced to one oil being used over another. Tends to be due to just a badly built engine
The best advise is simply go back to your source. Use the oil(s), and viscosity recommended by whomever actually assembled your engine. Not the person who sold you the engine, not the person who sold you the parts, but the person who actually put it together. They will have their own go-to favorites based on the specifics of that engine build.
Not FI, but for my VQ, my machinist made a very specific oil recommendation, and I've stuck by it since completing the break in (2007). Royal Purple XPR 20/50 with a WIX filter. I'm sure there are others that he would be totally fine with me using as well, but this stuff is readily available for me, so it's all I've ever used. If he told me I could run Wolfs Head, or whatever other brand, I'd use it. Ultimately it's his engine, and it's what he is paid to be the expert on. I just follow his directions. 4 years later and the engine runs great, and has not given me any issues. Doesn't use any oil, oil pressure is always consistent no matter what the weather, and I change it every 2500-3000 just because of the rpms I run. Overkill I'm sure, but it's worked, so its just superstitiously what I do.
However, on other engines of mine that he has built, he has had different recommendations...and in some cases (like for our BMW ITS cars), they were always done around being able to use a more 'normal' off the shelf dino (which for us is typically Castrol GTX 10w30, since you can get it anywhere you happen to be). These engines were never exotic internally mind you, they just needed to last at least a seasons worth.
The best advise is simply go back to your source. Use the oil(s), and viscosity recommended by whomever actually assembled your engine. Not the person who sold you the engine, not the person who sold you the parts, but the person who actually put it together. They will have their own go-to favorites based on the specifics of that engine build.
Not FI, but for my VQ, my machinist made a very specific oil recommendation, and I've stuck by it since completing the break in (2007). Royal Purple XPR 20/50 with a WIX filter. I'm sure there are others that he would be totally fine with me using as well, but this stuff is readily available for me, so it's all I've ever used. If he told me I could run Wolfs Head, or whatever other brand, I'd use it. Ultimately it's his engine, and it's what he is paid to be the expert on. I just follow his directions. 4 years later and the engine runs great, and has not given me any issues. Doesn't use any oil, oil pressure is always consistent no matter what the weather, and I change it every 2500-3000 just because of the rpms I run. Overkill I'm sure, but it's worked, so its just superstitiously what I do.
However, on other engines of mine that he has built, he has had different recommendations...and in some cases (like for our BMW ITS cars), they were always done around being able to use a more 'normal' off the shelf dino (which for us is typically Castrol GTX 10w30, since you can get it anywhere you happen to be). These engines were never exotic internally mind you, they just needed to last at least a seasons worth.
This is THE correct answer IMO. Oil is engine specific based on climate, engine loading and bearing clearances. Which is why no one is answering and all results vary from build to build.