yeah the oem one is tiny too, but my own oem equipment is way bigger

Although, which one are you running? I'm planning on getting this one (b&m supercooler 11" I removed the link).
I'd recommend keeping the one you have and getting another, you can't really get a cooler that's too big (esp if you are over heating..)
and how to route it, basic thermodynamics and heat soak properties tell me that the best way to route is out of the tranny into better/stronger cooler, THEN the smaller one and back into the tranny. That way in case the original temp is too high for the smaller one, the bigger one can cool down the fluid to temperatures the smaller cooler can handle and won't soak. (if that makes sense)

 

RcDash / Raj recommended " A cooler for a built 5AT needs to be in the range of 11 x 11 x 1.5" so I think I'm going to be going for that at a minimum. Question is where to put it... I'll check it out a bit when I go back to MN Racing. They were suggesting I increase the diameter of the hose from the 3/8s stock over to Dash 6... which is a bit of an operation- I think at the BARE minimum I would keep existing hoses and increase the cooler size and go with that larger pan if possible. And then if things STILL didn't work I might look into the hose sizes.

(Edit... Dash 6 is 3/8ths so either I got the Dash 6 number wrong and it was actually 8 or the stock is smaller than 3/8ths- one way or the other, the hoses they pointed out were larger by a margin)

Dash mentioned that the fluid is nice and thin and flows at a good, high pressure... So I'll take it one step at a time.

And on top of all that- the code they pulled was a pending cylinder 5 misfire- so it could have been a tuning glitch causing my problems but judging by what I've learned about the VLC / SLIP warning lights going off it sounds like tranny temp. The gauge should help to at least figure that out-


Frick... here we go again.

 

Okay! Well this is definitely a step in the right direction.

We're going with the bigger heat sink, keeping the same lines and getting an ATF temp gauge installed tomorrow AM. I will then be able to monitor the temps and see if that's in fact what has been causing my limp mode issues...

Shop said it IS possible that my stock MAF is causing my issues as well. Words to the effect "If it's only shutting down when you're getting on it, then that could be the MAF. If it's shutting down at other times then it would be another issue."

Will report!

 

stock DE mafs only good for like 400 if recall so it very well could be your maf, uprev makes aftermarket mafs now too if that is the case

 

I still think it's a load scaling issue on the tune. No matter how much cooling you throw at it if the tuner doesn't know his **** the tranny will still eat itself alive. I never heard of a 5AT constantly going into limp from lack of cooling unless you're pushing it hard -- e.g. climbing hills, track abuse, roll racing, ect ect. Some don't even run a cooler and get by OK...the fact you actually have a cooler and are overheating while still on the break-in, well you get my drift.

 

^ I don't think he's overheating the 5AT either. You have to really push it hard, like boosting for 20 mins straight, or it has to be really hot outside! The temp gauge is a must though and a big cooler won't hurt. A proper transmission cooler uses a low pressure drop design (when fluid is thick, it bypasses) so it won't overcool. All good.

Ian, you must get a reading of what TPS generates 100% calculated load to be confident that when you accelerate, your ECM is telling the TCM that you are at 100% load.

EDIT: This is the cooler I use and it works perfect, daily driving or pushing 500 whp up in the mountains - http://www.bulkpart.com/Merchant2/me...de=tru-cool-hd. It fits perfectly in front of the passenger side of the radiator (if you move the horns out of the way).

 

looks likea maf issue to me if your still running the stock maf

 

Okay then! Looks like we have a new culprit.

Well, I'll have a nice, chilly transmission at least to accommodate the HPX when it gets installed and the hella tune is complete.

 

You can only run 5-6 psi with the stock MAF! So don't try to go beyond that. Looks like you have a HPX in the works. That will allow you to go as high as you want, but driveability at low loads may suffer due to poor resolution. With a built motor, I would recommend a Haltech and MAP based tuning... If you overboost (e.g. a vacuum line pops off the wastegate), you will blow your motor! If you insist on a reflash, come up with a work around for overboost safety (e.g. Hobbs switch tied to fuel pump cut).

 

I didn't even notice you were running stock maf.
Why not get something that runs MAP instead of upgrading maf?

 

because its unnecessary and a **** load of $$

 

Utec is cheaper than osiris.
but something like haltech is worth it.
FI isn't cheap. If you are going to do it, do it right.
IMO map>maf. Not like maf wont work, but imo its clear cut that map is better for forced induction.

I just don't trust a couple of thin pieces of platinum wire and current measurements at high flowrates/pressure.

 

no argument its better but unless your pushing huge numbers maf is more than adequate, i agree when doing FI in doing it right as well but with how good osiris is with an adequate maf i couldn't justify spending 2k for a haltech or what ever they are priced now. im just going to be running osiris on my 4.07 stroker when its up and running here in the next couple weeks and feel it will be more than good enough for the job

 

I feel you on the cost, but when I looked at it, ultimately I would have to get a haltech anyway. Why not save me the loss of buying a cheaper ecu and then selling it and just buy the right one the first time.
If you have a large enough maf housing you can support all the hp you want, but again, if it was really good, why wouldn't everyone be running mafs and osiris?

on another note, you going to be boosted?

 

because utec is a cheaper option so alot of people ran that route, not to mention quite a few kits came with it as thier ecu. Momentum and GTM both offering osiris with thier kits so its not like the builders themselves don't think its not capable of managing their product. and then on the huge builds people want to shell out for the haltech or the hydra because that's whats offered and pushed by the shop i imagine (forged vtr z1 etc)? not to mention they are a little more fail safe and have the overboost protection. but for the money and what osiris offers i don't see why more people arent running it, my buddy has a built rev up g35 has about 25k miles on it in the last year and a half running it at 570 whp and 550 tq and has had zero issues with it. that's a testament to me on how solid the ecu is to me because i know how he drives and it gets pushed to the limit every time it comes out.

yea i got a build thread up if you want to check it out. 4.07L BC stroker twin gt28's with the .84 AR 850 cc injectors cjm twin pumps full return etc, aiming for 650 whp on a DJ gonna see if itl make it lol. its a HR with the gtm stage 2 kit

 

Yeah, ultimately it's your car do what you want with it right!?
I'm going to run 1200cc injectors so utec was out of the question almost immediately and I just don't feel confident with an osiris for those power levels.
Nobody probably remembers but car v2 was one of the first shops to build a z and push the greddy tt kit, and they made like 700 crank hp off the utec alongside a wastegate relocation kit arp setup and cometic (i think) gasket...

 

def! pretty much a comfortable and what your looking for outa it kinda thing

 

Eh guys.

I was talking to Intec and Uprev and they were saying that it isn't in fact the HPX upgrade I had... it was the Uprev GT. I guess that is a proprietary device and doesn't have the scaling / resolution issues that the HPX has. There are some issues with first time tuners (it's totally open ended and does take some time to get tuned) but other than that all is good.

I talked to Richard at Uprev and he was saying there are cars on different race circuits doing enormous horsepower in their software... up to something to the tune of 1200hp... He said sure, anything over and above that there is some value of going standalone.

To be quite honest in everything I'm researching and what I'm learning from a lot of folks who know a lot more about it than I do, going the uprev route isn't "not doing it right." In fact, it looks like a great way to go for a number of different reasons provided the guy doing the tuning knows what he's doing. Which, in Intec's case at least, he does.

I have heard great things about Haltech and many have urged me to pursue that route. And believe me, I don't need to be told that going FI is expensive...

I haven't heard ANYTHING but problems with Utec... so I'm not even considering that route. At this point the decision that needs to be made is who is going to do this Uprev GT tune and whether or not MNR can do it or if the car is just absolutely going to have to come down to Seattle again.

 

this +100

 

the people that ***** about UTEC have never used it or dont know how to tune it. Its that simple.

UTEC is like turbonetics. It was designed for a specific power range, ie anything that uses 600cc injectors or smaller (if you dont wanna reflash tune to allow for >600cc)

Uprev is fine, but you better have a boost controller that has overboost protection at a bare minimum.