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G35C AT / JWT 700BB Take Two... (Noob Friendly)

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Old 02-12-2012, 02:50 PM
  #161  
str8dum1
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haha, i thought it was engine oil.... they said coolers....

d'oh
Old 02-12-2012, 05:45 PM
  #162  
Eno
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Nah... If we're talking about OIL coolers now... mine looks like this (recently purchased off Sylvan):


Last edited by Eno; 02-12-2012 at 05:55 PM.
Old 02-13-2012, 07:23 PM
  #163  
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"Tell me more about the PML pan?"

Volume: 1 to 1.5 qts. over stock
* a low profile for ground clearance
* fins, aluminum construction and a bit more capacity for cooling
* a drain plug for easier maintenance


http://www.yourcovers.com/transpan_11091.php

I used to have the sensor inline on the return line but now it is tapped into the pan.
My cooler is mounted like Marty_G on g35driver. Next plan is to copy his idea and divert the air directly to the cooler and vent it out the wheel well. Here is a pic of his cooler.
Attached Thumbnails G35C AT / JWT 700BB Take Two... (Noob Friendly)-cooler2.jpg  
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Old 03-02-2012, 07:34 PM
  #164  
Eno
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Things are finally starting to wind down a bit. All is built and back on the road again. Having a few little issues as I kind of expected I might with custom parts and little nuissance leaks etc but nothing critical.

I posted dyno sheets over on driver (closer to the bottom of this post) and got a tepid reception with them because they're mostly torque related and as described by 100% of the people (2) who remarked on them (words to the effect) "those are the weirdest dynographs I've ever seen." I've requested a more complete graph that shows a wider range of readings on before and after but insofar as what I was looking for (faster, more aggressive dig)- I think we got that. I'm also not supposed to say it's a low reading dyno so I'll just say it's a mustang and leave it at that.

I'm busy hunting down a dynojet in the Vancouver area to get some more consistent / reliable final numbers but overall I think as it begins to warm up I'm going to spend some time enjoying the car and letting the performance mod bug sleep for awhile.

Here are some progression photos to wind it up. If you ever needed a reason to ensure you go to a reputable, competent shop... this thread and the one that preceeded it is it.

It's been a long journey!

March 24th 2011: Fresh from Progressive Auto (Victoria)-



Where they fully installed my 700bb JWT kit:











Which eventually resulted in:






So then the boys over at Intec took over and gradually got the engine rebuilt, with some substantial upgrades including a fully built transmission and BBK.







Then MonkeyNutz in Burnaby took things over and became my "local" go to shop that essentially took ownership of future upgrades. Of course, before that happened I simply HAD to go down to Intec in Kent, WA first to do a final tune and to throw on the Cosworth plenum- which netted some decent numbers when it was all said and done- including a 10k fine at the border for not claiming the parts / labour for the rebuild. (oops).






When I got back, MonkeyNutz had a chance to install a few items including the Quaife, corner balancing, catchcan, oil cooler, tranny cooler, new 3" downpipes, exhaust, and some new poly body items and brings it up to its current form / function. In addition, they fabbed up a really nice harness cover since the Rare JDM ones are almost impossible to get a hold of anymore. Very nice!






That pretty much sums it up! For those of you looking to make a move into the FI world, I hope my experiences are a good learning tool for you!

Last edited by Eno; 09-15-2012 at 11:54 PM.
Old 09-15-2012, 09:48 PM
  #165  
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Eh guys... bumping a bit of an old thread to address a couple of change items. Granted you hardcore guys won't have much to learn from me but maybe someone can!

Wear and tear wise, MNR noticed a relatively minor leak turn into something a bit more disconcerting over a couple month period and that turned out to be a rear main seal / crank seal (I think that's right). I've since learned that having them installed improperly isn't uncommon- but whether or not it was improper or just the fact the same seal was used after the build... not sure. Anyway- it had to be replaced so that was scheduled in alongside some other pressing issues.

I also learned a lot in a thread where "colder plugs" were called out as something of a myth (in SOME circumstances!) where consideration needs to be given to the way you drive. As I understand it- if you're spending most of your driving time in a DD mode (gentle driving- very little boost) then there's a good chance you're not going to get the same benefit out of a much colder plug- Much colder like, say, a greddy 9 plug of the variety that I had. We weren't being aggressive enough with the tuning to warrant this extra margin of safety- so finally these got changed in place of 7s. It seemed like a reasonable decision.

Also had the Greddy Turbo TI-C exhaust installed with the 3" downpipes... leaned towards the loud side for my liking and as a result we did slightly modify the pipes with some very low profile "race resonators" that helped with some of it but........ if I had a choice I'd have probably just stuck it out with 2.5" pipes. The Greddy sounds great but still may lean a bit towards too droning during cruising conditions. As soon as the turbos open up the volume comes down and it's perfect.

Based on discussions with Djamps we also moved away from the j-bung that was originally used with the 3" pipes. There has been a lot of debate as to whether or not the narrow band sensors significantly impact fuel / air management- but suffice to say once the switch happened I found that my AFR readings drifted a lot less as it was able to make much more precise corrections while cruising. At least, that's the way I understood the benefits of the narrow band sensors not being stuck in a j-bung.

Had a few smaller issues come up-

Upgraded to some stainless reservoires for PSF and coolant overflow- and there was a LOT of hassle with the PSF tank... I have a steering fluid cooler which I think resulted in fluid arriving in the tank under higher pressure creating turbulence in the tank that it was unable to contend with. Seemed fluid was moving back and forth too fast for the vent to keep up and as a result not only would it leak almost continuously but the steering pump wouldn't prime. It was a racket... fortunately MNR had a different design and there's was no problem. If you are thinking of updating your tanks, drop me an email and I'll explain a bit more about the issues and some things to consider. The vendor of the tanks was extremely supportive throughout- a credit to him!

In the interim I hit a pothole in the street that was trimmed around during road maintenance and hammered not only the AT undertray but also smashed the exhaust resonator (stock on the TI-C Turbo exhaust). This resulted in a substantial exhaust leak and the undertray needed to be pushed out. I got away pretty lucky- and that #$@# hit could have done a lot more damage.

Changed the colour theme a bit in under the hood as well. I know, I know- colour matching isn't for everyone. I think it cleaned up nicely- however... so I'm happy with it. We replaced the clunky black MAF tube with a fabbed up stainless one an also replaced the blocky JWT filter with a lower profile Apexi one.

BEFORE


AFTER


I haven't been on a dyno since the rather strange readings I got the last time- but I've been pretty happy with the performance. I finally got a chance to hammer on it fully a couple weeks ago... suffice to say it brought a smile to my face. A smile worth the money I've sunk in? No, probably not... but it was pretty awesome.

Last BIG investment has to be on wheels and tires (Okay, okay... and maybe cams / springs)... which is a pretty fricken big investment but after some of the threads I've read about replicas and cheap wheels- I'm on the prowl for a nice set of wheels with good offsets and tires that can hold the power on the ground.

Taken a couple weeks ago during the charity Poker Run on Vancouver Island.

Last edited by Eno; 09-17-2012 at 02:59 PM.
Old 09-15-2012, 11:01 PM
  #166  
Sylvan Lake V35
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Post more pictures from the front...I love looking at that oil cooler
Old 09-15-2012, 11:31 PM
  #167  
Eno
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(taken prior to recent upgrades)


Last edited by Eno; 09-15-2012 at 11:41 PM.
Old 09-16-2012, 05:08 AM
  #168  
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Very Nice Sir!!

Old 09-16-2012, 05:27 PM
  #169  
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looking good man!
Old 09-17-2012, 04:59 AM
  #170  
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Sexy sexy! I bet people ask "what other cars does ARC make?"
Old 09-17-2012, 06:22 AM
  #171  
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Originally Posted by ITNKICN
..."There has been a lot of debate as to whether or not the narrow band sensors significantly impact fuel / air management- but suffice to say once the switch happened I found that my AFR readings drifted a lot less as it was able to make much more precise corrections while cruising. At least, that's the way I understood the benefits of the narrow band sensors not being stuck in a j-bung...."


..."Upgraded to some stainless reservoires for ATF and coolant overflow- and there was a LOT of hassle with the ATF tank... I have a steering fluid cooler which I think resulted in fluid arriving in the tank under higher pressure creating turbulence in the tank that it was unable to contend with..."
Can you clarify using the narrow band sensors.... Are you referring to the "down stream" oem NB sensors... Are you using them or not? My understanding is that they are not really necessary but to remove them will throw a cel????

+ you make reference to "ATF tank". I'm confused about this. ATF = automatic transmission fluid tank??? Are you referring to the power steering system or the auto trans system.

Thanks
Old 09-17-2012, 06:50 AM
  #172  
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Originally Posted by Zume
Can you clarify using the narrow band sensors.... Are you referring to the "down stream" oem NB sensors... Are you using them or not? My understanding is that they are not really necessary but to remove them will throw a cel????

+ you make reference to "ATF tank". I'm confused about this. ATF = automatic transmission fluid tank??? Are you referring to the power steering system or the auto trans system.

Thanks
He's talking about the rear narrowbands. Yes they are used in certain conditions for closed loop corrections. I know the rumor is that they don't but it's false. Anyone telling you that is going off 'what they heard' not actual experience.
Old 09-17-2012, 02:48 PM
  #173  
Eno
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Im a maroon. I meant Psf tank. I'll go back and edit.

Also- thanks for the compliments gents! Been a long, long road.

Djamps was instrumental in the decision to put the narrows back on. Seems theyre more influential during cruising and arent in play when you hammer on it. Specifically as mentioned what I used to notice was very wide fluctuations while cruising- without any throttle input (or at least very little). Once corrected- I don't have near as much deviation and what little there is is quickly corrected.

There is apparently some wiggle room in the service manual about the effect of the narrow bands. It can be interpreted the common way- or the less common way that djamps brought to our attention. It was an opportune thing- I had work being done on the pipes anyway so we did it at the same time. Not sure if it's worth changing on its own (unless you do your own work etc) but if you're at that point with your car I'd leave them in.


Originally Posted by suprasam
Sexy sexy! I bet people ask "what other cars does ARC make?"
Haven't been asked that yet but I'm sure it'll happen someday!

Last edited by Eno; 09-17-2012 at 03:10 PM.
Old 09-17-2012, 05:00 PM
  #174  
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Originally Posted by ITNKICN
Im a maroon. I meant Psf tank. I'll go back and edit.

Also- thanks for the compliments gents! Been a long, long road.

Djamps was instrumental in the decision to put the narrows back on. Seems theyre more influential during cruising and arent in play when you hammer on it. Specifically as mentioned what I used to notice was very wide fluctuations while cruising- without any throttle input (or at least very little). Once corrected- I don't have near as much deviation and what little there is is quickly corrected.

There is apparently some wiggle room in the service manual about the effect of the narrow bands. It can be interpreted the common way- or the less common way that djamps brought to our attention. It was an opportune thing- I had work being done on the pipes anyway so we did it at the same time. Not sure if it's worth changing on its own (unless you do your own work etc) but if you're at that point with your car I'd leave them in.!
Interestingly enough I was shooting the breeze with the local Z/G go-to mechanic (frank from hill's garage) and he told me even in nissan mechanic's school they teach that the rears do nothing, but he admitted by his own experience over the years it's a load of chit. Cruise between 55 and 65 on the freeway for more than a minute or two with a very steady foot and they engage full time.
Old 09-17-2012, 05:01 PM
  #175  
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Originally Posted by ITNKICN
Im a maroon. I meant Psf tank. I'll go back and edit.

Also- thanks for the compliments gents! Been a long, long road.

Djamps was instrumental in the decision to put the narrows back on. Seems theyre more influential during cruising and arent in play when you hammer on it. Specifically as mentioned what I used to notice was very wide fluctuations while cruising- without any throttle input (or at least very little). Once corrected- I don't have near as much deviation and what little there is is quickly corrected.

There is apparently some wiggle room in the service manual about the effect of the narrow bands. It can be interpreted the common way- or the less common way that djamps brought to our attention. It was an opportune thing- I had work being done on the pipes anyway so we did it at the same time. Not sure if it's worth changing on its own (unless you do your own work etc) but if you're at that point with your car I'd leave them in.!
Interestingly enough I was shooting the breeze with the local Z/G go-to mechanic (frank from hill's garage) and he told me even in nissan mechanic's school they teach that the rears do nothing, but he admitted by his own experience over the years it's a load of chit. Cruise between 55 and 65 on the freeway for more than a minute or two with a very steady foot and they engage full time.

For me it was even more frequent. My car actually 'came to life' even in stop and go after ditching the antifoulers.
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