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My Vq35de build, Need help

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Old 06-04-2011, 03:35 AM
  #21  
Tanman1986
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Thanks everyone for yalls input. I think i will go with what the SR members are saying and just keep the motor stock and throw the twins on it. if it blows just throw another low milage motor in and call it a day, but i have to say the RB26dett is always calling my name........lol Thanks again eveyone.
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Old 06-04-2011, 04:48 AM
  #22  
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Originally Posted by Tanman1986
there us no replacement for displacement, No reason to throw away a 3.5L and replace it for a 2.6L.
I can tell you right now that you're wrong.
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Old 06-04-2011, 07:13 AM
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Originally Posted by Spork
I can tell you right now that you're wrong.
You can't definitively say you're right let alone say that guy is wrong. There are many, many variables with respect to the bigger displacement vs. smaller displacement theory. Any experiment can be skewed toward each variable. So there is no right or wrong. If an actual scientific analysis is conducted using scientific methods then a proper conclusion can be achieved.
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Old 06-04-2011, 08:49 AM
  #24  
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Originally Posted by Tanman1986
Thanks everyone for yalls input. I think i will go with what the SR members are saying and just keep the motor stock and throw the twins on it. if it blows just throw another low milage motor in and call it a day, but i have to say the RB26dett is always calling my name........lol Thanks again eveyone.
Honestly when I built my engine, my buddy was pushing me to do the RB swap but the displacement thing never made sence to me. Now two failed engines later I thought I should have done the RB swap. I do think it is swap you do mostly to be different a properly built VQ is an amazing thing I have enough friends that have built RBs to know hey are expensive to build and just as finicky as a VQ. So honestly the cool thing about the swap is to be different I still think about abandoning my build and doing the RB but I don't trust RBs unless it is out of a R33 or R34 the R32 have oil pump issues and I would rebuild it before swapping one in by that time it would be cheaper to just build your VQ.

Last edited by Sylvan Lake V35; 06-04-2011 at 11:12 PM.
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Old 06-04-2011, 07:00 PM
  #25  
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I would throw away my 3.5L and replace it with a 4G63 2.0L.

VQ + FI = FAIL .
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Old 06-05-2011, 12:36 PM
  #26  
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Originally Posted by midz350
I would throw away my 3.5L and replace it with a 4G63 2.0L.

VQ + FI = FAIL .
Sorry, but it really depends on who built your motor. Contrary to what you would like to believe, the VQ is not inherently flawed.
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Old 06-05-2011, 01:21 PM
  #27  
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Originally Posted by djamps
Sorry, but it really depends on who built your motor. Contrary to what you would like to believe, the VQ is not inherently flawed.
Its not necessarily the best motor to add FI to, and even some of the best builders have had problems. I really haven't seen any scientific analysis done on the failures that have occurred. Real Root Cause Analysis. It would be a great experiment to try.
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Old 06-05-2011, 02:25 PM
  #28  
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when you blow your stock motor you also run the chance of blowing metal into the bearings of the turbos as well. so its not as simple/cheap as just swapping blocks. sometimes the turbos have to be rebuilt as well.

Last edited by zmedic16; 06-05-2011 at 02:26 PM.
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Old 06-05-2011, 02:55 PM
  #29  
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Originally Posted by zmedic16
when you blow your stock motor you also run the chance of blowing metal into the bearings of the turbos as well. so its not as simple/cheap as just swapping blocks. sometimes the turbos have to be rebuilt as well.
And cams, heads, valves, timing chains, oil pump, valve covers, oil galleys in timing covers, rods, pistons... blowing stock blocks hurts, blowing built blocks hurts 3x as much.

For one built shortblock you can get at least 3 stock long blocks.
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Old 06-05-2011, 03:00 PM
  #30  
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Originally Posted by zmedic16
when you blow your stock motor you also run the chance of blowing metal into the bearings of the turbos as well. so its not as simple/cheap as just swapping blocks. sometimes the turbos have to be rebuilt as well.
Run in line filters in your turbo feed lines, however the heads cams Ect that is another story.

Last edited by Sylvan Lake V35; 06-05-2011 at 03:09 PM.
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Old 06-06-2011, 03:08 AM
  #31  
Tanman1986
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My last car was a Evo VIII and i had a Eclipse GST before that, so i know all to well how good of a motor the 4g63 is. One of the best 4 bangers ever made IMHO. Now im just looking for the next best thing, a 6 cylinder. I got tired of the 4 banger so i wanted somthing a bit bigger. Im really just looking for the best motor out their, 6 cylinder wise. I know the RB26dett is epic, hands done, hell the more i think about it the more i want it. The swap is really not all that bad, dont get me wrong, its not like throwing it into the 240sx, but it can and has been done and they even make a kit for the rb26 Z swap for under $2k. Hell i might just go ahead and do the RB26 sawp and call it a day
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Old 06-06-2011, 07:39 AM
  #32  
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Originally Posted by Sylvan Lake V35
Run in line filters in your turbo feed lines, however the heads cams Ect that is another story.
You could destroy your turbos from a restrictive filter. I'd venture to say it's more likely to happen since the filter will need constant replacement and with most twin turbo designs it's not a simple/easy task. Even a clean filter will restrict flows... not worth the risk IMO, just another point of fail.

Last edited by djamps; 06-06-2011 at 07:40 AM.
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Old 08-09-2011, 10:29 AM
  #33  
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Originally Posted by Sylvan Lake V35
What a n00b fest in the first 10 posts, I agree with the SR members go stock engine if it blows buy a low milage stock engine keep it at 400whp and beat the **** out of it everyday. At around 375-400whp my car never missed a beat no matter how hard I drove it.
ya, i belive you will be safe up to 400whp also and beat the hek out of it having a lot of fun at that... i have a single and 388, no prob(knocking on wood), techs says they hear the "magic" number for DEs are 400mark. but you WILL WANT MORE BOOST for sure eventually so be careful. i stay at 8lbs, got another DE for a slow rebuild or back-up if has to be....good luck
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Old 09-10-2011, 04:33 AM
  #34  
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So what did you do?
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Old 09-10-2011, 11:26 AM
  #35  
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for your power goals and the least amount of headache i would do option 1. It's a far simpler install so less headache and less to worry about than a TT setup.

Also, i would probably not waste the money on the cams. The cost of install (or headache if you do it yourself) plus the cost of the cams isn't going to gain you much on stock block power. If you wanted a little more out of the setup to get to 375 you just turn the boost up.
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Old 09-10-2011, 11:28 AM
  #36  
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Originally Posted by taywan
techs says they hear the "magic" number for DEs are 400mark.
400 wtq, not 400 hp. Horsepower is a component of torque. Torque is what will snap the rods. I was only making 375ish tq at the wheels when i was 451hp on my vortech setup. The hks will have a little more tq than a vortech but it will still be far less than the midrange torque of a turbo setup.
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Old 09-11-2011, 07:30 AM
  #37  
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Originally Posted by Spork
So what did you do?
As of yet, nothing, I had my heart set on the Rb26 swap and had all the info i needed to go Fwd with the swap but my options just got alittle bigger as of a month ago, Like i posted in a newer thread( Link: https://my350z.com/forum/2003-2009-n...k-for-her.html ) a few weeks ago. My income from $40k a year just went up to $100k a year with this new job. So im looking into a GT-R or being the worlds 1st VR38DETT 350z. It can be done with the right amount of money and i have found 2 VR38s for under $10k and one on E-Bay right now for $12k. Alot more research is needed before going fwd with this project and i have a shop on stand by who is going to undertake this massive project if i so choose to go fwd. A full stand alone ecu, wiring harness, custom mounted GT-R Gauge cluster to replace the stock 350z one, custom motor mounts, custom bell housing adapter, custom drive shaft, rebuilt 350z Trans, custom clutch, etc...... i myself love the GT-R but i dont like the "no stick shift option" so thats why i would like swap the VR38 in. The Full Z33 RB26 Swap can now be done under $13k and thats with working AC, but the VR is newer and can pass emissions if the day ever comes that i need to do one and as far as the VQ goes, im pushing 126k miles and its getting time to 1. sell the car and move up to the GT-R or 2. Engine swap. Ive seen way way to many VQs go boom after FI, even on a build VQ and im not about to be the next one to do it. The VR swap + the amount of money i already paid for the Z will Top around $45,000. Which im my eyes isnt too bad but around $15k less then a used GT-R so thats my dilemma right now, Go GTR or VR38DETT 350z......

Last edited by Tanman1986; 09-11-2011 at 08:13 AM.
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Old 09-11-2011, 08:17 AM
  #38  
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Originally Posted by Tanman1986
Ive seen way way to many VQs go boom after FI, even on a build VQ and im not about to be the next one to do it.
where? here on the forums? That's because the main reason people come to the forums is to ***** about their blown engines, ask about problems, and show pictures of destruction.

There is a far greater community of FI 350z/g35 that don't post on the forums. hell, there are quite a few members on here that have been FI for years without problems but they do'nt make a thread every month to say "hey, my car is still running". They have a build thread when it first happens (maybe) and that's about it.

Look at the FI board of any forums and all you see is the negative with a few build threads. If all i did was read those forums i'd never put forced induction on a single vehicle.

I personally would take a gtr over having a 350z with a vr38. there might be a small population of people that will be fascinated with the 100k$ you spent to make the swap but the rest of us will just see the silly waste of money for less overall performance than a gtr. Performance on the gtr is more than just the power of the engine.
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Old 09-11-2011, 11:28 AM
  #39  
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^well said
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Old 09-11-2011, 11:59 AM
  #40  
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aftermarket engine parts are often like steriods...you get mild to wild increases, but you have to keep putting them in and side effects are quite normal.

I would bet you would be into the build for another 15,000 easily trying to make all of the GT-R stuff work, $15 would be very conservative (plus your $10,000 engine)

The VQ isn't bad, I'd swap in a new/rebuilt stock longblock (120k is VERY high for a motor you want to blow into), twin turbo and a very thorough tune.
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