Tanman1986

iTrader: (2)

Well im looking into two dif options in my 04 Z build. I was going to throw in the RB26dett but i changed my mind, there us no replacement for displacement, No reason to throw away a 3.5L and replace it for a 2.6L. So here are my thoughts on my new build. I want to go FI but she is my daily driver, so i want reliability and i dont want the car to be a pain in the azz to drive, also i want to be able to take it to the track once or twice a month and not have to worry about the car not making it home. So with that being said here are my two build ideas i have:

Option one:

HKS GT Supercharger kit
Nismo R-Tuned Headers
Nismo R-Tuned Cams
Nismo S-Tuned Exhaust
Nismo Clutch
Hi Flow Cats (Prob magen Racing)
Cosworth Intake Manifold
Tune

Option two:

Full Greddy TT Kit
Nismo Clutch
Cosworth Intake Manifold
Stillen Y Pipe
Agency Power Single Tip Ti Exhaust
Tune

midz350

iTrader: (4)

You only need one thing,

Tanman1986

iTrader: (2)

already got one, next lol

ddc665350ztt

Those are all nice parts. But are u going to build the engine? What is your power goals and are there any plans for suspension/brakes?

faiz23

I second building the motor as well. You are already tearing into that motor for heads and then working with turbo as well. Might as well build the bottom end and call it a day. Find the parts you need in the marketplace and save some $$$. I would build the motor even if you plan to not use the extra power. When you sell the car it will have a greater value when the motor is fully built versus half built.

chrisjersey06

iTrader: (35)

There are plenty of people who go FI with stock engines and have very reliable setups. As long as there is nothing wrong with it now, he's not at 150k miles, his power goals are reasonable, and a tune is done well, there is no reason to tear into a rebuild.

Tanman1986

iTrader: (2)

All good questions, as far as breaks and suspention, ive already got that covered. I have brembo brakes and cross drilled rotors, i aslo have the Nismo S-Tune suspension. I was not planning on building them motor. I just hit 120k tho, so it might be a good idea, but she is my DD and i dont want a race car. I just want a good DD that gots ok gas mileage and has some power behind the wheel. my power goals are 350hp to 375hp. Nothing crazy. Iam thinking more about the first options. Seeing as i have heard good things about the HKS GT Supercharger being very reliable on a stock motor.

aslsmm

um.. i may be way out in left field but all those parts you mentioned plus the parts to build the bottom end would cost a great deal of money. I have been looking at some of those same kits and it seems that you will be in this motor a good 6-8k. i could be dead wrong but greddy isnt cheap and niether are any heads ffor the vq line of motors. so why not just sell the 35de and buy a 37de highrev? they are already in the poer range you mentioned. just a thought.

eltness350

iTrader: (58)

i would go option two....build motor if u got the cash....if not get a more aggresive clutch then the nismo because you will eventually up the boost like everyone else haha. bigger exhaust also imo.....another way to help you decide on parts is search this site a bit more or ask your tuner/shop what works for your goals. good luck!

ddc665350ztt

I really dont think going halfa$$ with FI should ever be an option. Build the motor, if its out of your price range I suggest you just do every bolt on N/A mod with a good tune...

tonyzS/C03

iTrader: (3)

I can see were his thinking is, I used to have a Vortech set-up and was making 350-360 all day long and was loving it, but for the sake of reliablitiy I would suggest building the motor if you have the money as well. As far as the two options go, what type of driving do you do mostly, highway, city streets? That is what is really going to determine if you go with the TT or supercharger kit, and both kits have been proven to be great for either a stock of built block. IMO if your doing mainly highway driving I would go TT if your more of a local buming around town and stop light to stop light I would def opt for the supercharger.

Vq.turbo.DremZ

iTrader: (6)

Not quite sure i understand your definition of "Halfa$$"

dikspiel

iTrader: (70)

If you want the most reliable setup i would either leave the motor stock or do a v8 swap. The VQ engine whether built or not is not reliable a solution for track days when boosted.

eZg

iTrader: (5)

BP single turbo. Instal yourself and spend cash on a rune from FP

djamps

iTrader: (1)

It's pretty hard to match the tolerances and build quality that come from the factory, many build engines are destined to fail from the start so it's a gamble either way. I prefer to beat the **** out of my stock engine and build it when needed, which may or may not be needed. Seen too much built engine fail to justify the risk given modest power goals.

To the OP: ditch the cats unless you're fine with throwing the money down the pisser when they fail and you have to buy test pipes and labor 3 months down the road. A clogged cat could grenade your engine as well... don't risk it.

Zquicksilver

iTrader: (5)

OP... at least consider this

http://www.importpartspro.com/st1blon.html

with 120k on the OD and plans for FI.

$2600 built engine that can withstand 2x the forces is a much better value than Nismo headers, cams and Cosworth plenum. You mentioned reliability...


GL,
Zquicksilver

djamps

iTrader: (1)

Just don't be fooled into thinking it only costs $2600 to have a built engine. You still need breakdown of your old block and reassembly of the new one, removal/reinstall, head gaskets, the list goes on...all of this assuming your timing chain, heads, ect is good (at 120k I'd replace/rebuild those as well) current block and crank is suitable as a core....ect ect.

So now you've spent $6-8k and uht oh, the engine wasn't machined too well and starts burning oil or spinning bearings in less than 10k miles... oh yea no warranty either, so you can rinse wash and repeat another 8k. To me, building the engine can be a financial can of worms that should be thought out very carefully if your whp goals are modest such as in this case. SC is fine on a stock block as long as it's healthy going into it IMO.

Cass007

iTrader: (34)

THIS... listen to what he is saying. There are many hidden costs in fully built motors. Even if you have some solid DIY skils, you may not have all the tools required to install or break down the motor/components correctly.

As someone who has been there a few times I would say that the most reliable setup for F/I is a stock block. Some have cars running for thousands of miles and some for only a few dyno pulls. Much of it has to do with how much horsepower you want and how hard you drive the car.

ddc665350ztt

halfass as in just bolting on FI parts and not building the motor to handle it. Every boosted person knows you always want more (boost). its never "ill keep it at 5 psi" but later down the road "hmmm maybe she can handle 8" Its cool if you like to blow stuff up and rebuild it. but it would save a lot of time and money to do it right the first time.

Sylvan Lake V35

iTrader: (23)

What a n00b fest in the first 10 posts, I agree with the SR members go stock engine if it blows buy a low milage stock engine keep it at 400whp and beat the **** out of it everyday. At around 375-400whp my car never missed a beat no matter how hard I drove it.