I'm done with this $hit..
#161
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sounds like a reasonable plan.
why getting rid of the haltech though? It's an amazing tuning product with the datalogging make it worth the cash. You also had a local that tunes haltech i thought too.
just as an fyi, you will need that hpx maf with the uprev because 400hp will max out the stock one. So that already puts your uprev at 700ish$ plus the cost of the tune then you need widebands and you don;t have a dedicated datalogger or boost controller. If you want all those features it will all add up to the cost of a haltech in the long run. If not then go uprev.
why getting rid of the haltech though? It's an amazing tuning product with the datalogging make it worth the cash. You also had a local that tunes haltech i thought too.
just as an fyi, you will need that hpx maf with the uprev because 400hp will max out the stock one. So that already puts your uprev at 700ish$ plus the cost of the tune then you need widebands and you don;t have a dedicated datalogger or boost controller. If you want all those features it will all add up to the cost of a haltech in the long run. If not then go uprev.
#162
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sounds like a reasonable plan.
why getting rid of the haltech though? It's an amazing tuning product with the datalogging make it worth the cash. You also had a local that tunes haltech i thought too.
just as an fyi, you will need that hpx maf with the uprev because 400hp will max out the stock one. So that already puts your uprev at 700ish$ plus the cost of the tune then you need widebands and you don;t have a dedicated datalogger or boost controller. If you want all those features it will all add up to the cost of a haltech in the long run. If not then go uprev.
why getting rid of the haltech though? It's an amazing tuning product with the datalogging make it worth the cash. You also had a local that tunes haltech i thought too.
just as an fyi, you will need that hpx maf with the uprev because 400hp will max out the stock one. So that already puts your uprev at 700ish$ plus the cost of the tune then you need widebands and you don;t have a dedicated datalogger or boost controller. If you want all those features it will all add up to the cost of a haltech in the long run. If not then go uprev.
#163
WTF!! I'm losing my mind guys.. why the hell would I want to go down that road again!!!
I will make a FS thread later today for everything, just need to check with couple of shipping company's locally to get some quotes for shipping to the U.S.
I would prefer to sell it as a whole package, but will see.
I will make a FS thread later today for everything, just need to check with couple of shipping company's locally to get some quotes for shipping to the U.S.
I would prefer to sell it as a whole package, but will see.
#165
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451hp was the final outcome with the haltech.
wait, now that i'm looking at it are you using an HR maf or a DE maf? mine is a DE engine. maybe that's the difference.
Last edited by binder; 07-23-2011 at 10:55 AM.
#166
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iTrader: (13)
interesting because hal tuned my car on osiris first and he was the one that told me not to expect more than 400. Mine was nearing that when he was tuning and we ran into problems so i just purchased and had him install a haltech that day.
451hp was the final outcome with the haltech.
wait, now that i'm looking at it are you using an HR maf or a DE maf? mine is a DE engine. maybe that's the difference.
451hp was the final outcome with the haltech.
wait, now that i'm looking at it are you using an HR maf or a DE maf? mine is a DE engine. maybe that's the difference.
#168
We finally took the shortblock apart, it is a rod bearing like we predicted.
Will take pics tomorrow for the parts (TT kit, fuel system, injectors and clutch) to make a FS thread. And will see if any of the pistons and rods are reusable so I can sell them too.
Engine explode:
Main bearing:
Hydrolocked engine:
Rod bearing:
I will get a complete VQ35HR engine and also may get:
1-Fast Intentions Long Tube Headers for the 370z
2-Injen Dual Cold Long Air Intake Filters (just for sound and look) <-- ricer
3-SPL Front Lower Arm Bushings – Shock Mount
4-SPL Front Compression Rod Bushings
5-SPL Front Lower Arm Bushings – Inner
6-SPL Solid Differential Mounting Bushings
7-TEIN TRS01-P2410 Tie Rod End -
8-Project Mu rear brake shoes
9-Kaaz 2 Way LSD 350Z/G35 (for manual transmission cars with factory LSD)
10-JWT Clutch and flywheel combo.
Still haven't decided yet.
Will take pics tomorrow for the parts (TT kit, fuel system, injectors and clutch) to make a FS thread. And will see if any of the pistons and rods are reusable so I can sell them too.
Engine explode:
Main bearing:
Hydrolocked engine:
Rod bearing:
I will get a complete VQ35HR engine and also may get:
1-Fast Intentions Long Tube Headers for the 370z
2-Injen Dual Cold Long Air Intake Filters (just for sound and look) <-- ricer
3-SPL Front Lower Arm Bushings – Shock Mount
4-SPL Front Compression Rod Bushings
5-SPL Front Lower Arm Bushings – Inner
6-SPL Solid Differential Mounting Bushings
7-TEIN TRS01-P2410 Tie Rod End -
8-Project Mu rear brake shoes
9-Kaaz 2 Way LSD 350Z/G35 (for manual transmission cars with factory LSD)
10-JWT Clutch and flywheel combo.
Still haven't decided yet.
#169
350Z-holic
iTrader: (34)
Sorry to hear this. It really blows when you work so hard at something and can't get the desired result, especially after so many tries. Hang in there, I've found that just having the car running makes me feel so much better. My new goal is similar to yours, fawk the power and just have a car I can drive and enjoy for a whole season, then I will get back to making it fast.
FIXED
Oh.... and another main bearing just to add insult to injury
FIXED
Oh.... and another main bearing just to add insult to injury
#170
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Sorry to hear this. It really blows when you work so hard at something and can't get the desired result, especially after so many tries. Hang in there, I've found that just having the car running makes me feel so much better. My new goal is similar to yours, fawk the power and just have a car I can drive and enjoy for a whole season, then I will get back to making it fast.
FIXED
Oh.... and another main bearing just to add insult to injury
FIXED
Oh.... and another main bearing just to add insult to injury
#174
Have you seen the crazy prices for the 2J swap parts? The RB26 is way cheaper to swap.
Beside, I'm too broke now and thinking about selling the TT kit, but it would take for ever to sell it locally and shipping it to the U.S would cost around $1000-$1200
The only thing that I really love about this build and don't want to sell is the Haltech. That thing is way too easy to tune.
Beside, I'm too broke now and thinking about selling the TT kit, but it would take for ever to sell it locally and shipping it to the U.S would cost around $1000-$1200
The only thing that I really love about this build and don't want to sell is the Haltech. That thing is way too easy to tune.
Last edited by midz350; 09-09-2011 at 09:26 PM.
#175
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Have you seen the crazy prices for the 2J swap parts? The RB26 is way cheaper to swap.
Beside, I'm too broke now and thinking about selling the TT kit, but it would take for ever to sell it locally and shipping it to the U.S would cost around $1000-$1200
The only thing that I really love about this build and don't want to sell is the Haltech. That thing is way too easy to tune.
Beside, I'm too broke now and thinking about selling the TT kit, but it would take for ever to sell it locally and shipping it to the U.S would cost around $1000-$1200
The only thing that I really love about this build and don't want to sell is the Haltech. That thing is way too easy to tune.
#178
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mid just buy a nissan patrol, and either build/boost it or swap that motor in your z.
But seriously:
You need to realize that you need a motor that your builders know and can build reliably LOCALLY. IPP (or whoever you bought that block from) etc are halfway across the globe, your local builder can't do a vq35 obviously. I know that's coming across really brash, but that's what I think. I'd rather be a jerk in a few posts than see you continue to be miserable and essentially burn time and money. I'd say either go stock block and just deal with the lower power, or pick a different motor. Correct me if i'm wrong but with the money you've spent you probably could nearly afford a gtr at this point.
Just trying to be a realist here and be honest.
But seriously:
You need to realize that you need a motor that your builders know and can build reliably LOCALLY. IPP (or whoever you bought that block from) etc are halfway across the globe, your local builder can't do a vq35 obviously. I know that's coming across really brash, but that's what I think. I'd rather be a jerk in a few posts than see you continue to be miserable and essentially burn time and money. I'd say either go stock block and just deal with the lower power, or pick a different motor. Correct me if i'm wrong but with the money you've spent you probably could nearly afford a gtr at this point.
Just trying to be a realist here and be honest.
#179
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The rb has plenty strength in design but how many people do you know that even run RB's? Even if you know a few, compare that to how many people you know that have 2jzs. End of story... lol
#180
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I think that has more to do with the fact that nobody here in the states has experience like the japanese or Australians with the rbs. Also when parts aren't readily available, alongside knowledge, you're always going to see more problems.
The rb has plenty strength in design but how many people do you know that even run RB's? Even if you know a few, compare that to how many people you know that have 2jzs. End of story... lol
The rb has plenty strength in design but how many people do you know that even run RB's? Even if you know a few, compare that to how many people you know that have 2jzs. End of story... lol