Recommend mileage for breakin on TT motor
In here (FI forum) when someone calls you an idiot, it is not a bad thing. lol
Unwritten forum protocol:
People with over 1000 posts and at least one built engine can call people with less than 1000 posts names (noobs, idiots, dreamers... ) and they shall not cry about it.
Unwritten forum protocol:
People with over 1000 posts and at least one built engine can call people with less than 1000 posts names (noobs, idiots, dreamers... ) and they shall not cry about it.
In here (FI forum) when someone calls you an idiot, it is not a bad thing. lol
Unwritten forum protocol:
People with over 1000 posts and at least one built engine can call people with less than 1000 posts names (noobs, idiots, dreamers... ) and they shall not cry about it.
Unwritten forum protocol:
People with over 1000 posts and at least one built engine can call people with less than 1000 posts names (noobs, idiots, dreamers... ) and they shall not cry about it.
If this is where all the idiots are hanging out then count me in. Op, I'm going through almost exactly the same process with a g35... Built block, etc... Osiris et al. I know my shop said 1000 miles or so with oil changes at certain intervals... Can't recall them exactly and don't want to misquote.
I'm pretty new as well with more money than brains when it comes to this stuff. Like you I'm full of questions but work pretty hard at doing my research before splashing blood all over myself and jumping into the lions den. I've looked into engine break ins on google as I'm sure many have and stumbled into one page that suggests the break in is an unnecessary step... Then again the guys I trust say it's crucial. As you can see- some for 20 minutes... Some for 1000kms. Quite possibly one of the hottest debated subjects I've yet come across.
I don't know enough to throw in objective commentary at this point... But my engine just finished being built and should be on it's way into the car very shortly (like today). Figure it'll be ready to start in about a week (some pro racing stuff is on deck and I expect it'll cause delays) and then some heat cycling and then I get it for the break in period. I'll keep you posted on my progress or just look for my thread... Basically the g35 700bb jwt take two thread. I keep it reasonably up to date. Things have been slow lately but I suspect they will be coming on fast now.
Good luck with your progress and keep that foot off the trigger.
I'm pretty new as well with more money than brains when it comes to this stuff. Like you I'm full of questions but work pretty hard at doing my research before splashing blood all over myself and jumping into the lions den. I've looked into engine break ins on google as I'm sure many have and stumbled into one page that suggests the break in is an unnecessary step... Then again the guys I trust say it's crucial. As you can see- some for 20 minutes... Some for 1000kms. Quite possibly one of the hottest debated subjects I've yet come across.
I don't know enough to throw in objective commentary at this point... But my engine just finished being built and should be on it's way into the car very shortly (like today). Figure it'll be ready to start in about a week (some pro racing stuff is on deck and I expect it'll cause delays) and then some heat cycling and then I get it for the break in period. I'll keep you posted on my progress or just look for my thread... Basically the g35 700bb jwt take two thread. I keep it reasonably up to date. Things have been slow lately but I suspect they will be coming on fast now.
Good luck with your progress and keep that foot off the trigger.
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ehh, I think I'm more on the noob/dreamer side than idiot...lol
But even so, when getting on the highway, if you would have to speed up or slow down to get off so not to cause an accident, and you know your breaking in a new motor, prob a better idea to slow down and merge safely (both for traffic and the motor) my 0.02
But even so, when getting on the highway, if you would have to speed up or slow down to get off so not to cause an accident, and you know your breaking in a new motor, prob a better idea to slow down and merge safely (both for traffic and the motor) my 0.02
plain and simple: do'nt boost when breaking an engine in. If you can't keep your foot out of the gas when it's untuned and you are breaking the engine in, then yes, that person is an idiot and a "my block blew up" thread will soon follow.
It's VERY EASY to stay out of boost when breaking an engine in.
I doubt we'll cross paths because i do'nt really like east coast cities but if you're trying to "scare me" into not saying you are an idiot for boosting 15 a/f on a new engine then no, it's not going to work. So stop trying to be internet tough guy. I've seen plenty of tough guys in the 8 years as an army sergeant.
i wouldn't have problems telling anyone to their face that they are an idiot for doing that to an engine during break in. I actually just had that conversation with a local. I did a vortech install and tune on his car. After a full exhaust install i told him not to boost until i could readjust the tune the following weekend. What happened, the idiot went out and drove the **** out of it and had massive detonation (as viewed on the plugs). I straight told him he's an idiot and if he didn't listen to me i wouldn't work on his z anymore. simple fact: do stupid stuff, get called an idiot
It's VERY EASY to stay out of boost when breaking an engine in.
I doubt we'll cross paths because i do'nt really like east coast cities but if you're trying to "scare me" into not saying you are an idiot for boosting 15 a/f on a new engine then no, it's not going to work. So stop trying to be internet tough guy. I've seen plenty of tough guys in the 8 years as an army sergeant.
i wouldn't have problems telling anyone to their face that they are an idiot for doing that to an engine during break in. I actually just had that conversation with a local. I did a vortech install and tune on his car. After a full exhaust install i told him not to boost until i could readjust the tune the following weekend. What happened, the idiot went out and drove the **** out of it and had massive detonation (as viewed on the plugs). I straight told him he's an idiot and if he didn't listen to me i wouldn't work on his z anymore. simple fact: do stupid stuff, get called an idiot
Last edited by binder; Jul 20, 2011 at 08:15 AM.
plain and simple: do'nt boost when breaking an engine in. If you can't keep your foot out of the gas when it's untuned and you are breaking the engine in, then yes, that person is an idiot and a "my block blew up" thread will soon follow.
It's VERY EASY to stay out of boost when breaking an engine in.
I doubt we'll cross paths because i do'nt really like east coast cities but if you're trying to "scare me" into not saying you are an idiot for boosting 15 a/f on a new engine then no, it's not going to work. So stop trying to be internet tough guy. I've seen plenty of tough guys in the 8 years as an army sergeant.
i wouldn't have problems telling anyone to their face that they are an idiot for doing that to an engine during break in. I actually just had that conversation with a local. I did a vortech install and tune on his car. After a full exhaust install i told him not to boost until i could readjust the tune the following weekend. What happened, the idiot went out and drove the **** out of it and had massive detonation (as viewed on the plugs). I straight told him he's an idiot and if he didn't listen to me i wouldn't work on his z anymore. simple fact: do stupid stuff, get called an idiot
It's VERY EASY to stay out of boost when breaking an engine in.
I doubt we'll cross paths because i do'nt really like east coast cities but if you're trying to "scare me" into not saying you are an idiot for boosting 15 a/f on a new engine then no, it's not going to work. So stop trying to be internet tough guy. I've seen plenty of tough guys in the 8 years as an army sergeant.
i wouldn't have problems telling anyone to their face that they are an idiot for doing that to an engine during break in. I actually just had that conversation with a local. I did a vortech install and tune on his car. After a full exhaust install i told him not to boost until i could readjust the tune the following weekend. What happened, the idiot went out and drove the **** out of it and had massive detonation (as viewed on the plugs). I straight told him he's an idiot and if he didn't listen to me i wouldn't work on his z anymore. simple fact: do stupid stuff, get called an idiot
I will be changing out plugs before I take it over to the tuner. Can anyone help out on the gaping of the plugs? I'm goin with the ngk iridium i step colder. Basically my set up is built TT,jwt s7 cams, cosworth intake full 3'' motordyne exhaust. Any help would be great!!!! Thanks guys!
I will be changing out plugs before I take it over to the tuner. Can anyone help out on the gaping of the plugs? I'm goin with the ngk iridium i step colder. Basically my set up is built TT,jwt s7 cams, cosworth intake full 3'' motordyne exhaust. Any help would be great!!!! Thanks guys!
For non-iridium i gap down to 30 thousandths on all my plugs for FI. On the last car i tuned i even took the iridiums down to 35 thousandths just in case but be VERY careful when gapping down iridium plugs. Its very easy to damage the electrode.
Most guys using iridiums will tell you they don't need gapped at all. I know rich and a few others leave them the stock iridium gap.
For non-iridium i gap down to 30 thousandths on all my plugs for FI. On the last car i tuned i even took the iridiums down to 35 thousandths just in case but be VERY careful when gapping down iridium plugs. Its very easy to damage the electrode.
For non-iridium i gap down to 30 thousandths on all my plugs for FI. On the last car i tuned i even took the iridiums down to 35 thousandths just in case but be VERY careful when gapping down iridium plugs. Its very easy to damage the electrode.
Does that sound right?
Last edited by 856_reilly; Jul 20, 2011 at 10:40 AM.
i gapped my coppers somewhere that low, but I was also running 38psi. There is no reason you should have to gap a normal setup that low.
you can also take off the -11 and get 0.03" gapped plugs. ie lfr6a-11 is the standard copper with 0.042" gap. The lfr6a is gapped at 0.03"
there are also 2 different iridiums you can use. ***mmmm, doesnt seem that NGK sells the LFR7AIX-11 anymore, or at least I cant find any part #s
The LFR7AIX is the 2 step colder with the smaller 0.03" gap compared to the LFR7AIX-11 which is the 0.042" gap.
IP, etc stock the -11 plugs. I think I have the -11 plugs as well, but will be keeping the 0.03" as backups (best price here http://ngksparkplugs.ecrater.com/p/4...idium-ix-spark)
you can also take off the -11 and get 0.03" gapped plugs. ie lfr6a-11 is the standard copper with 0.042" gap. The lfr6a is gapped at 0.03"
there are also 2 different iridiums you can use. ***mmmm, doesnt seem that NGK sells the LFR7AIX-11 anymore, or at least I cant find any part #s
The LFR7AIX is the 2 step colder with the smaller 0.03" gap compared to the LFR7AIX-11 which is the 0.042" gap.
IP, etc stock the -11 plugs. I think I have the -11 plugs as well, but will be keeping the 0.03" as backups (best price here http://ngksparkplugs.ecrater.com/p/4...idium-ix-spark)
Last edited by str8dum1; Jul 20, 2011 at 11:09 AM.
Another thing, I'm going to be finishing my catch can before I get it tuned and I was basically going to go off the stock pcv set up only put a check valve in line. What do you guys think about that? Am I ok with that or do you think I need to go a different way? Thanks
i gapped my coppers somewhere that low, but I was also running 38psi. There is no reason you should have to gap a normal setup that low.
you can also take off the -11 and get 0.03" gapped plugs. ie lfr6a-11 is the standard copper with 0.042" gap. The lfr6a is gapped at 0.03"
there are also 2 different iridiums you can use. ***mmmm, doesnt seem that NGK sells the LFR7AIX-11 anymore, or at least I cant find any part #s
The LFR7AIX is the 2 step colder with the smaller 0.03" gap compared to the LFR7AIX-11 which is the 0.042" gap.
IP, etc stock the -11 plugs. I think I have the -11 plugs as well, but will be keeping the 0.03" as backups (best price here http://ngksparkplugs.ecrater.com/p/4...idium-ix-spark)
you can also take off the -11 and get 0.03" gapped plugs. ie lfr6a-11 is the standard copper with 0.042" gap. The lfr6a is gapped at 0.03"
there are also 2 different iridiums you can use. ***mmmm, doesnt seem that NGK sells the LFR7AIX-11 anymore, or at least I cant find any part #s
The LFR7AIX is the 2 step colder with the smaller 0.03" gap compared to the LFR7AIX-11 which is the 0.042" gap.
IP, etc stock the -11 plugs. I think I have the -11 plugs as well, but will be keeping the 0.03" as backups (best price here http://ngksparkplugs.ecrater.com/p/4...idium-ix-spark)
Another thing, I'm going to be finishing my catch can before I get it tuned and I was basically going to go off the stock pcv set up only put a check valve in line. What do you guys think about that? Am I ok with that or do you think I need to go a different way? Thanks
Another thing, I'm going to be finishing my catch can before I get it tuned and I was basically going to go off the stock pcv set up only put a check valve in line. What do you guys think about that? Am I ok with that or do you think I need to go a different way? Thanks
I looked into and read up on some other methods and yes there a little more involved. I do worry bout crankcase pressure that is one of the things I delt with right before my old motor blew w/the SC kit. I figured I would try this first and if I have a issue I would try something else. Just don't to do it standard and then bang it be a issue that is so big to where it's gonna be a big money mistake.....