Another GTM Install
EDIT:
Most people do the exact opposite with stock block power. They drive at or near their max whp and then up the boost occasionally because it is like crack. Then, one day its just your turn and... BOOM!! Very few are able to avoid this temptation (Jeffie and Keith are two of the few).
Last edited by rh_334; Aug 18, 2011 at 07:48 AM.
never had any problems with forged, yet I got majorly screwed by z1 when they flat out lied to me about a garbage transmission they sold me. what I actually got was nothing even close to what they promised and I have the pictures to prove it.
as a matter of fact forged ended up replacing the transmission I bought from z1 when it took a total **** less than a year after installation.
as a matter of fact forged ended up replacing the transmission I bought from z1 when it took a total **** less than a year after installation.
I do have one question for you guys. I have four gauges to mount and a boost controller. Being that I would like nothing showing in the cabin that would indicate I wasn't stock, where can I mount the gauges and boost controller? I think boost under the dash would be ok but not sure I can fit four gauges in the cubby above the radio. Suggestions?
Thanks,
Jay
Thanks,
Jay
use the oem 3 gauge cluster. then put the fourth and the controller in the cubby. that's what im doing except i only have 3 and my boost controller is in the haltech.
imo the oem gauges never really did anything for me. the multigauge is useful but afr boost and temp is much more important to me.
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use the oem 3 gauge cluster. then put the fourth and the controller in the cubby. that's what im doing except i only have 3 and my boost controller is in the haltech.
imo the oem gauges never really did anything for me. the multigauge is useful but afr boost and temp is much more important to me.
imo the oem gauges never really did anything for me. the multigauge is useful but afr boost and temp is much more important to me.
Last edited by f150intally; Aug 20, 2011 at 05:04 AM.
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Actually, it was being dropped for install and tuning. I expect it to take a few weeks to install. I will be back up in September when they tune it. Videos, pictures etc as that happens. A lot of work left still.
If you are going through the trouble to put things back to stock it shouldn't be too much of a hassle (unless you really butcher the removal).
Just buy a used one and hack that up. save your oem one to "go back to stock" if you worry about such things.
I was able to get a PLX gauge to fit inside of the oem housing with a bit (ok a lot) of careful cutting.
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The camp2 gets some of its readings from the factory OBDII port like rpm, water temp, to name a couple. Other readings like oil temp, boost, fuel pressure, oil pressure require additional sensors. And then if you want AF then you need a knock amp connected to the FCON that will read on the camp2, but if you had the knock amp visible then you would need the display anyway. HKS website has more info on the factory sensors it can read. For me it is a good display considering in got the other do-dads too.
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You guys are cracking me up. Everything has been purchased. I do have OSIRIS but was just asking about using the factory gauge location and could i go back to mounting the stock gauges if the car ever goes back to stock.
On another note... I did not get to drop the car off because my friend that was going with me had a family emergency and had to bail. I am now driving to Z1 this Friday night and dropping the car off Saturday morning.
So, while I still have the car in my possession, I am going to the local dyno (Mustang Dyno) to get a baseline set of numbers. This Z is BONE STOCK. Let's play a game....guess my bone stock Mustang Dyno number!
My personal guess.... 243whp... the facility is climate controlled.
On another note... I did not get to drop the car off because my friend that was going with me had a family emergency and had to bail. I am now driving to Z1 this Friday night and dropping the car off Saturday morning.
So, while I still have the car in my possession, I am going to the local dyno (Mustang Dyno) to get a baseline set of numbers. This Z is BONE STOCK. Let's play a game....guess my bone stock Mustang Dyno number!
My personal guess.... 243whp... the facility is climate controlled.
Last edited by f150intally; Aug 23, 2011 at 05:12 AM.
You guys are cracking me up. Everything has been purchased. I do have OSIRIS but was just asking about using the factory gauge location and could i go back to mounting the stock gauges if the car ever goes back to stock.
On another note... I did not get to drop the car off because my friend that was going with me had a family emergency and had to bail. I am now driving to Z1 this Friday night and dropping the car off Saturday morning.
So, while I still have the car in my possession, I am going to the local dyno (Mustang Dyno) to get a baseline set of numbers. This Z is BONE STOCK. Let's play a game....guess my bone stock Mustang Dyno number!
My personal guess.... 243whp... the facility is climate controlled.
On another note... I did not get to drop the car off because my friend that was going with me had a family emergency and had to bail. I am now driving to Z1 this Friday night and dropping the car off Saturday morning.
So, while I still have the car in my possession, I am going to the local dyno (Mustang Dyno) to get a baseline set of numbers. This Z is BONE STOCK. Let's play a game....guess my bone stock Mustang Dyno number!
My personal guess.... 243whp... the facility is climate controlled.
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Cool John. I will talk to you Saturday about this but would like you guys to document (through pictures) the tear-down and build up since I won't be able to stop by in person during the process. I like to have things like this. I will hopefully be there for the tuning so I can record that, etc.
Thanks.
-Jay
Thanks.
-Jay
