Like I said I was quick on the phone. Vince said the car was responding fine as far as adding and subtracting fuel. When it was at the other shop they said when they added or subtracted fuel bank1 was responding and bank2 was not. Idono......I didn't get the numbers on the a/f when Vince called me but he said that bank2 was reading a bit leaner then bank1 and he feels it has to do with the exhaust selanoid or the exhaust cam gear having a issue. So as of right now, no the issue has not been fixed from what I understand. That is what he was going to start to try and figure out. Look I'm a little confused myself. All I know right now is he said when he down loaded the rom I believe it was, and used the map he had from another greddy TT and did small pulles the car was running ok. He even said that he don't know what was going on at J-Tune or what they were doing but when he did what I just explained the car was responing and was pretty close in a/f readings. It's just bank2 was a bit leaner.

 

Interesting, keep us posted!

 

Yea brotha I know. I'm going to give him a call tomorrow around lunch time and take a few mins and have him explain to me what's going on.
I forgot and it was prob. pretty important I can't believe I forgot it but he did say there is a point at around 2500rpm where is goes lean like I was saying, it then cleanes itself up at higher rpm.
If you don't mind explain to me why you are confused. Is what I was explaining not make sense? I'm trying to understand all this as it goes on. Thanks!!!

 

No, I understand now. Your first post tonight just was a little confusing to me.

The important thing is that it gets fixed whether you remember everything he tells you or not.

 

Your right on that bro. Yea I'm not the best at typing on the computer or do I know a whole lot about these cars. This is all a big learning process. I just wish it wasn't my car it was happening to...... I just hope it's nothing major and it get fixed and I can enjoy it. I want to drive this car so bad you don't even know!!!!

 

lol, issues happen. If it's not catastrophic, don't sweat it.

You will be on the road in no time.

It seems (correct me if I am wrong) as though you are young. If that is the case, please respect the power you will have. Anything over 450whp in these cars can be a handful. The fact that it's boosted makes it even more of a handful. Be careful, drive safe. Don't let your car become your coffin.

 

exactly why doing full pulls on a safe map first is recommended over chasing a single load cell right off the bat. I have multiple cells that took a while to calm down after my full map was setup. If i stopped and tried to perfect areas that are caused by the design of these cars i would have never gotten past 1800 rpms. In truth, my lean spot is exactly at 2400rpms which is a common area on our cars to lean out slightly before stabilizing. Maybe the first shop doesn't realize that? 1800, 2400, and 2800 are all areas on our cars that tend to have lean areas as you accel through them.

 

It's one thing to be ~.8 - 1.0 AFR difference between banks, but to be say 13.5 AFR on Bank 1 and 18.0 AFR on Bank 2 is completely different. Also, it's not that both banks are going lean, it's just one and it's going extremely lean. Any pull in to load at that point would be dangerous.

I understand what you are saying about points in the map on our cars going lean-"er" than what we target but they shouldn't go "lean" under load.

Also, is your lean when you hold at 2400 or when giving it throttle? If it's when holding 2400 at a particular load point, the base fuel should be adjusted. If it's when giving it throttle, then it's your transient throttle. I am not sure if that can be adjusted in OSirus but in the Haltech and other ECU's we have to adjust these things. Also, as long as it's not in load, it's not huge deal if it doesn't break up.

I think the tuner was right to stop tuning at this point because there IS an issue. I (and so would probably any tuner) disagree with immediately doing full pulls after loading a base map aquired from somewhere, more specifically when boosted and especially with our cars and this is why.

**I am putting this in easy to understand terms and not technical terms so please, keep that in mind.

Our cars come NA, not boosted therefore most basemaps will be an NA map maybe going up to 1.5 PSI MAP. Now, with all the different turbo setups available, you end up with different effeciency ranges of the turbo. With this in mind, you could have a turbo that gets in to its effeciency range early, say 3000 RPM's and gets out of it's effeciency when you reach 7000 RPM's. This means you will continue to add fuel all the way to 7000 and then depending on the how fast the effeciency drops, depends on if you continue to add fuel or maybe the fuel stays the same all the way to 7500 at that load level. Hell, maybe if drops off a little.

So, with this information, what if you had the above mentioned setup but used a basemap from a setup where the turbos effeciency dropped off at 6500 so the basemap was not adding fuel when your setup, the setup where the effeciency didn't drop off till 7000? You could go lean and depending on the amount of timing at that part of the map, you could cause knock.

Now beyond this, what if you had a map (you are using for a basemap) that came from a car using a turbo that didn't spool up till 4000 RPMs? This means the map didn't start rapidly increasing fuel till just before 4000. Now you are going to load this map on a car will turbos that spool up at 3000 RPM's. This means the basemap will not be adding fuel when it needs to, thus, be too lean for that load area. Being lean plus the agressive timing a lot of tuners are known for = POP....

There are a ton of variables in modified engines, especially with all the options available for our cars that make it a really bad idea to just throw a map created for someone else on and do a WOT pull before spending time adjusting different RPM and load points making sure your safe.

 

I will bro, and thanks!!!!!! I have had a lot of mustangs with motor work and blowers and so on. I am aware of the power. Although I had some personal issues that kept me away from the performance lifestyle for some years... These cars are a whole different ball game. I have to say I am a little concerned with the power and I have been thinking about it as well. I will respect it and be aware for sure Thanks again!!

 

I hear ya, This is definitely a learning experience and I have learned a lot. I'm starting to think from some of the things that have been found and from what the new shop ( RT Tuning ) has been talking to me about that the other shop doesn't really know how to tune real well. I don't want to bad mouth anyone at all. It just seems like this is the truth... I don't know.. Nor do I care..... I just want my car fixed.. Hopfully monday I'll have some good news..

 

Ya, vince has his head on straight. He knows what to do and he does everything he can to put the customer first.

 

Vince called me yest and told me that he found a issue. I have a rev-up motor and on the front where the cam sensors are, Seems that when the motor was put back together the cam sensors were swaped. Each one was on the wrong side. Monday or tuesday he said that he will get it on the dyno and he feels as if that will clear up the lean spot I'm having and everything will then be smooth. I don't want to count my chickens before the hatch but he feels that will clear it up and I'll be good to go. He explained to me that he has went over the car and everthing seems to be very good and the motor seems to be strong. So hopefully eveything will be cool.

 

ya, cam timing would definitely cause a/f issues if they are messed up from being switched.

 

Yea that what he was saying. I'll know tomorrow when he puts it on the dyno to tune it. Hopefully all will be well. I'll let you know what happen..

 

K well cam sensors seem to do the trick, now I gotta a clutch issue. I knew the act 6 puck wasn't gonna be enough but I thought I would at least get awaywith it for a year. That's not the case of course. I had to order a twin disc. After that is done he can continue tuning. I'm just glad the a/f issue is fixed. Car did make 550rwhp and 500 and change trq and the clutch was slipping. Vince told me soon as the clutch is done he can really get into it and finalize everything....

 

Cam sensor or crank sensor?

 

cam......They were flip flopped from install

 

Hey Dan, figure it would be easier for me to clarify. It was actually the Exhaust Cam timing control connectors were swapped bank to bank. So the Exhaust cam sensors were reading correctly but when they were trying to make actual adjustments to the exhaust cam timing itself, it would be reading the wrong bank. So when it would command more timing and nothing happened it would keep trying to get more, and likewise to the other side when it saw advance that is wasn't looking to see it would start pulling the timing out causing about a 40 degree difference in Cam timing advance from one bank to another.

Once that was fixed everything looked great but the clutch...so we will get that twin disc in and he will be good to finish the tune...

 

Did this throw any codes?

Glad it is all worked out and the op can relax now. He was starting to get suicidal!

 

^^^ Actually no...everything was plugged in so it didn't throw any high/low voltage codes. However I would have thought it would have thrown some Range or Performance codes but it didn't...