Ok, so after 8 months of crap with my old block I decided to buy Blckbird's (jason) Injected performance short block. 200 miles on it.

Got it all buttoned up and together. It fired up and idled fine. I let it idle for 30 minutes or so while i bled the coolant. Fans kick on, coolant temps stay between 200-209 while sitting and idling. So coolant is bled properly.

I have a few leaks at hose connections which will be easy to deal with.

So taking it for a ride and it's drives good but the oil temps started getting pretty warm. It was 93* outside which isn't anything compared to the temps i drove it in last summer. Sitting at the stop lights the temps were up at 220* and they didn't drop much when getting it out on the road. Before my temps would barely break 200* sitting and would stay around 170-180* while cruising. The oil cooler was nice and hot so oil was circulating through it just fine.

Since the low miles i did put mobil 1 5000 conventional oil in it. It's a 10w30 oil and before i always ran shell rotella synthetic 5-40 oil. Would going to the thicker conventional oil create more friction which would cause the temps to run hotter or should i be concerned about something else? Normally it wouldn't bother me except that the temps are higher than they were before so just seemed odd to me.

any thoughts on things i could have screwed up on assembly that would cause higher oil temps?

thanks

 

only thing i could think of would mayby be that the conventional retains heat more or possibly tighter clearances? tighter clearance mixed with thicker oil can cause some problems.

 

hmm, i guess i didn't think about the clearances. My old block had 15k on it and this has 200 miles so that makes sense too.

so it's about 15-20* hotter than my old engine. I guess that really isn't too hard to gain that amount of heat from new parts and an oil that doesn't reduce friction as easily.

 

Hi Jeff,
My brother's shop has built many v8 for an sc430, Ls430, Gs430 etc...
The last engine sc430 low compression 8:5:1 had the same issue HIGH OIL PRESSURE. It was my fault using mobil1 5-30 synthetic at 1st oil change.....my brother, the master mechenic !@#@#$$%%^^&&**(( at me What do i know? I'm a police officer . I come to his shop pretending that i know some
Since it was a new engine, it required light weigh oil or breaking oil in the beginning . I let the car drain every drop of the mobil1 synthetic oil for 24 hrs. A regular breaking oil was used for 500-600 miles then switched to synthetic ones...during that time, the customer experienced some clearance issue(light ticking noise at cold start) and high oil pressure. the issue went away around the second oil change. My brother hasn't figured out what cause it yet. He believed that the new short block with an old heads did not get along well.........By the way, thanks for your ACT clutch Jeff Ned

 

i cant think of much about a build that would change the oil temps measurably. I would tend to believe that if something was causing enough friction to literally raise the oil temps, im sure that would turn into a serious problem really really fast.

i guess i have never really thought about it. perhaps a different piston design in relation to the oil cooling from the oil squirters could be absorbing more heat into the oil... but in my head i wouldnt expect that to be measurable unless someone who knew told me otherwise.

220 doesnt really sound hot to me in this weather. you said you let the car warm up for like a half hour... that is going to soak up the oil temp pretty decent and the cooler is doing nothing while sitting there. even when you get on the road driving, the oil cooler itself, unless you have a massive one, isnt going to get the temps much below 220 again in that weather unless you are just cruising in 6th gear for 10-15 min.

thats my experience anyway... that once the oil gets up to 220ish, in summer weather, it takes some really steady low load with high airflow through the cooler to get it to come back down much. if i baby the car and keep the load really low and keep the car moving while the oil is still warming, it can take quite a long time to get all the way to 220, but if i drive long enough in typical traffic, it eventually gets there and isnt coming back down without cruising 6th gear.

of course, in cooler evening weather it already changes everything and runs much cooler.

 

Ned, you're welcome. I hope it's working out for you.

Charles: I had the same thoughts so i took it out and figured if it blows it blows. I checked the car over really good then went for a long cruise. 89* tonight and oil temps were just under 180* cruising and sitting idling it didn't get over 210*

one of the local DSM guys said i might have had an air bubble in my oil cooler which wasn't causing it to cool the oil when i was cruising. Tonight when i was out playing as soon as i got on the highway i could watch the temps go down.

Also, i'm proud to say that 11 psi (spring pressure) felt so good tonight. I'm on stock 245 tires so it was quite fun. I've missed boost so much and tonight made all the heartache worth it.

 

Glad you are back up and running again Jeff.

 

thanks chris. me too....it was such a stress on me to see that car sitting there every day while i couldn't do anything about it.

 

I have no idea what that would be like

Hoping you don't start freaking out at every little sound and differing gauge reading. I know a bit about that as well.

 

Great news Jeff, now let's see what the 67mm turbo can do . After brake in of course.

 

about 250 miles so far. Jason said they broke it in on the dyno so it should be ok. I'm more of less easing into it just to make sure there aren't any small issues going to spring up like oil leaks or something.

11.4psi was my max last night on wastegate. After i get some time driving around and everything is holding together (leaks and whatnot) i'll give it hell. I think i'm going to weld a bracket on one of these charge pipes and bolt it to the side of the upper oil pan because no matter what i do with these pipes i still hear a pipe hitting my block when i take off.

 

It can be a bit of a PITA to line things up because it is so tight under the driver side header. I have revised that pipe just a bit since you bought your kit, so it fits better around the steering knuckle. I am a master at lining it up now, and there is usually about ¾” of play all around.

I think one of these around the IC pipe would work great, and then you can just get some flat stock and bolt it to whatever is convenient:



That way you don't have to take things appart, and do any welding. The IC pipe is 2 3/4".

 

I'm glad everything worked out for you Jeff, the motor is built very well so it should handle anything you throw at it

 

sasha, i didn't plan on removing. I'm going to have it up on the lift next week to put in my SP exhaust cutout so I was just going to tack weld on a piece of aluminum but i can try a clamp like that.

For some reason on mine i have almost no room all the way around. I've installed this kit about 20 times now on my car and tried to revise it every way. It's not a constant rattle, it only happens if i chop the throttle then tap the gas hard again so i'm sure it's the piping moving sideways along with the block moving causing it to hit. I've used heat wrap everywhere to get it to stop but it just won't. I had someone listen to it and tell me it was a rod knocking *sigh* but i have a completely different engine so i know that's not the case.

jason: i hope so. once i get a few weeks on it and everything is leak free and still running then i'll be more confident that i didn't screw up assembly and i'll do some e85 tuning. I am a little sad that i moved from pauter rods down to eagle's. Shouldn't affect me because i really don't plan on pushing it past 700hp anyways, but like women always say: it's the thought that counts.

 

Just let me know if there is anything I can help with.

 

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