This is how I have done it. Have not run the car yet but electrically it should work. I have it all wired up but car is down waiting on an oil fitting.

Backstory:

Back when I started my FI build, about 1.5yrs ago I had a utec, HKS evs boost controller, innovate wideband and a cyberdyne digital boost gauge. Hal posted the Haltech package that allows you to run dual wideband sensors to a gauge and the haltech at the same time as well as integrate the boost controller to the ecu.

I loved the idea of having all the systems working together rather than separately. I believe I have seen people ask about a boost gauge being integrated but I don't think i ever read of anything being done.

I know that some people were using GM sensors but I didnt like them for 1 reason. They still required a vacuum tube to connect them to the manifold. I really hate all the clutter in my engine bay. I really really hate having to run a vacuum hose to the inside of the car, too many failure points.



Aem Boost Gauge - 30-4406
Reads from -14.7 to 35psi (more than enough for me)
Sensor is brass and 1/8npt threaded
Sensor fits into my Vibrant vacuum block.


Install:
Aem gauge is mounted in the center cubby. Cables provided by Aem were just long enough to route through the dash and out the main harness hole by the battery. My sensor is mounted on my vibrant block

Pre install:
See the vibrant block mounted on the firewall.


Wiring:
Gauge

Haltech


Only need to connect 1 wire to the haltech plug. connect the white wire from the AEM gauge to the Black/Red wire of the haltech 4 pin connector. The haltech ground is at the same potential as the chassis ground. The input has about .1V of float relative to the sensor input voltage. More on that later.

Note: You cannot use the AEM output for datalogging for your map input to the haltech. I learned this the hard way. You may be able to use it if you provide power to your AEM guage that does not toggle when you go to crank the car. The reason is that the AEM has its boot sequence where it runs through all the led segments and the digital display which takes a few seconds. During this time the output signal from the AEM is 0v which confuse the haltech. 0psi is around 1.6v.

To fix this since I had already terminated the white wire to the haltech I decided to cut the white wire at the gauge interface and splice the green and white wires together. This means that the haltech will get the raw input from the sensor and the AEM will read the same sensor. The AEM gauge powers the sensor with +5V even during its startup sequence so it is ok and a valid signal while cranking.


Signal setup in the haltech:

Chart below shows the input from the sensor converted to inHg and PSI.
Since the haltech input pin drops the input voltage by about .1V then the mapping must be corrected. The last columns shows the voltage read by the haltech and the 3rd column is the corresponding PSI or inHg



The haltech expects only 4 values and will calculate the pressure from the linear relationship of the 4 values. The problem is that the haltech limits the values.
(x,y) (x1,y1)
x must range between 0-5v
y must range between -14.5 to145
Sensor out from .5 to 4.5 will be read by the haltech as .4 to 4.4



Once I get the oil fitting in and oil back in the engine i will run the car on this setup and get it tuned!

Now I will have a gauge that reads the same as my haltech!

 

Pretty cool.

My gauge is off compared to what my haltech says. I just take my defi gauge with a grain of salt though. It gets me close enough for a display. It would be nice if we could output the haltech boost pressure onto a gauge (like the widebands) without buying the 400$ i/o box they just came out with.

 

Gauge install pic:


Sensor install pic:

 

Update: Car runs in this configuration! woot. So excited.

I did remove the .1v correction. My input values are .52/-14.5 and 4.5/35.3

 

So this bit me in the *** today.

After doing a wire tuck ( cutting , splicing, depinning, rerouting) and tons of other things a simple thing such as this got me flustered.

I normally unplug the boost gauge since the car will not run and generally not start without it. Since my car has not run for 6 months I took advantage of this. I cranked the car over several times (to prime the oil and fuel) and then plugged it back in(or so i thought). Then i went to fire up the Z. She would crank, fire and run for a second or two but would not respond to throttle. Well i thought i had messed up the wire harness and was not looking FWD to troubleshooting it.

As a side story, i just upgraded my laptop to a SSD and windows 7 and upgraded to the latest haltech. I did not take time to set up the faceplate so i did not have boost reading on my laptop.

Since it was cold i just gave up and went inside. While i was setting up my haltech inside after dinner it hit me...maybe the boost gauge sensor wasnt plugged in. (sensor has a connector splice in the engine bay and one for the haltech). Checked both, both were good. Noted that the boost gauge was not getting power. Verified power wires are terminated. Then i looked at the back of the gauge which is not easy to do. Finally noticed that i had skipped a pin when i plugged it back it. Replugged it in, cranked up and was GTG.

Moral of the story, if you do this, always make sure the pins are lined up. The AEM can skip pins and still plug in. So excited to have my engine running again. Tomorrow i will check for oil/fuel/ps and coolant systems for leaks/operating conditions.