Hi guys, my battery was running flat on my APS TT build and managed to find out that it's the APS boost controller eating between 0.35-0.4 A (while car is turned off).

1, Is this normal?
2, What do you guys do to get around this? (and how)

It's fed into the Haltech.

Cheers
AL

 

My first thoughts are; why aren't you using the haltech bcs ?

 

Didn't have one and this one should work...

 

It's probably wired incorrectly. If a constant 12v source is wired to the switched 12v on the controller that will keep the controller on all the time.

Double check that there is a switched 12v on the input switched and that the constant 12v from the battery is only on the hot 12v for the controller.

If you have a haltech all you need is a 30$ mac solenoid to use the haltech boost controller. It's much more versatile than the APS boost controller because you can set up closed loop maps based on any CAN input the haltech reads (wheel spin, speed, etc)

 

It's wired as per the APS manual, so if it's wrong it's bloody wrong in the manaul

I did hear some other people getting around this by not using the APS controller and getting this connected up to the ignition system.

Double check that there is a switched 12v on the input switched and that the constant 12v from the battery is only on the hot 12v for the controller. I'm sorry but don't actually understand what you're trying to say here.

You got a link for a suiteable mac solenoid? might just get a haltech boost solenoid when I order my O2 sensors.

thanks for the input guys

 

ebay will sell you the mac valve.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Boost-Soleno...item4cfaa8f827

I like having mined tied into my haltech..so many cool options.

 

On electronic devices that turn on when the car is turned on they will always have at least 3 wires: ground, switched 12v, and constant 12v.

Ground is to the chassis
constant 12v is to any power source that is always connected to the battery
switched 12v is to any 12v source that is only on when the ignition key is turned on

If there is power to the switched 12v when the car is off then the controller will remain on. So you should double check the wiring with a test like or ohm meter to see if the wire you have hooked to the "switched 12v" is actually off when the car is off. If it has power when the car is off then that is your problem and a new 12v switched source should be acquired.

 

what do you mean "its fed into the haltech"

what is fed into the haltech? a stand alone boost controller, would have no association with the haltech.

 

sweet, get it now.. easy to explain that one so, there are only two cables one for 12v and one for the haltech pulsing the ground... will get myself a new one tonight. the Mac one posted doesn't offer international shipping for some reason or another.

 

you can always just order the haltech solenoid but it's just a little more expensive since they rebranded it. Look on ebay, there are many people selling the mac solenoids that will ship.

By the sound of this you are using the boost controller output from the haltech to supply the aps boost controller? That is bad. The haltech shouldn't be hooked up to a separate boost controller at all. That pulsed output on the haltech is only to be ran to solenoids, not supply current draw for another device. You could damage the haltech by drawing too much current from that output.

 

Maybe the APS is just a rebranded solenoid as well and not a controller? If so..

Both wires from the valve should go to the haltech plug.

 

Only ground goes to the haltech

 

sorry, its a solenoid. The aps control units are not used in my setup, sorry for the confusion.

 

its fixed now? the only possible cause would be powering the solenoid off a non switched power source.

 

it's not fixed no, still fed from the 12v straight of the battery. Will try and get a new boost control and see if I see any more boost and install it switched. Will keep it unplugged until I actually use the car. I'm sure I'll rememer to plug it in

 

why not just power it from a switched source (something that only has 12V when the car is running).

then you wont have to mess with keeping it unplugged. You dont need a new solenoid.

 

Yeah will need to look at getting it switched but before I get a chance to do that I need to keep it unhooked. I was hoping that maybe a better solenoid would keep my boost a bit higher and possible magicly get me some more boost

 

It's funny to see this post because my APS boost controller is doing the same thing! I'm still wondering what switched power I can tap into so that it won't keep killing my battery.

 

I have an old japanese tole box inside that's hooked up to the ignition that I'll use for this I think. Why not use the cigg lighter?

 

Because I don't smoke? jk. Is that switched or constant?