athenG

iTrader: (2)

didnt see this post.. I havent looked up the Auto gear ratio but you could be right.

djamps

iTrader: (1)

if I cared about bracket racing I wouldn't have boosted my car. I race for fun, not pinks or cash.

On a given day, my E/T's are within half a tenth each other usually less and my 60ft's are within a quarter of a 10th. And that's boosted, not NA which adds inconsistency in itself regardless of gearbox. I'm not disagreeing that autos make it easier to be consistent, but there is no substitute for seat time. There were times when I was wishing I had a 5AT watching others lay down more consistent times, but with practice I am just as consistent except with a faster car.

Jime

Where I race 1/2 a tenth will not win any races. I do race for cash, not a lot I have averaged $5k a season for the last 5 years. I race 6-8 events a year and its my passion. I am planning on doing up a G Coupe for next year and just need it to run 11.99 for the semi-pro class which shouldn't be to difficult considering my Maxima runs 12.3 N/A, I'm hoping a G can do somewhat the same with some work.

PS I race for fun too but its nice to have someone else pay for your fun.

djamps

iTrader: (1)

Exactly why I don't do brackets being F/I. Unfortunately a G with turbo(s) or nitrous, especially uprev tuned (where you can't fix timing) introduce too many variables beyond driver or transmission choice that affect the e/t.

Jime

Darn I didn't realize you couldn't fix timing with uprev after a few years with the UTEC I just assumed. Everything I read about the uprev indicates its so much better than the UTEC (which it is). It took me a long time to get a setup that rivaled the carburated V8's I race against.

How much variation is there between runs and is there any way to minimize it?

Before I got the UTEC I would I would get my timing set on the dyno and when at the track I would plug the knock sensor cable into another sensor I had mounted on the chassis so the ecu wouldn't pull timing during a race. I know this could be disastrous but worked well for me. Would this work with uprev?

djamps

iTrader: (1)

Yea there are no hard timing values, just add/substract from whatever the ECU wants to run. You can disable knock control so I have a map with it disabled at the track. Even still, I get timing +/- a degree or two between runs especially in 1st and 2nd gear...timing increases by gear and isn't always the same betwen runs, probably by design for all we know.

Jime

Wonder what would happen if I hooked up the UTEC and used it just for the timing? Has anyone ever tried that? I really want hard timing.

Also was reading about your Log Analysis tool, sounds like it would save a TON of work, really good stuff. You must have spent some time developing that and thanks for sharing.

djamps

iTrader: (1)

UTEC will take full control of timing and fuel so yea, it'll do whatever you want it to with a MAP reference. I used to run a UTEC and it was OK but intermittent issues got progressively worse like limp starts, dead batteries, spark blowout and eventually fried coil packs made me get rid of it.

Jime

I meant just using the UTEC for timing and UPREV for the rest. Would that work? I have used the UTEC in my Maxima for the last 4 years (hardwired) so it is surplus and needs a good home. I'm like you about its deficiencies but it has served me well in spite of them and if I could get them to work together it would be great.

djamps

iTrader: (1)

You could but still can't avoid all the issues I mentioned -- I was using a combination of reflash (technosquare at the time) and the UTEC. The car drives 1000% better, made the same power (actually more under the curve thanks to Vince) with Uprev-only. And I don't miss the 'UTEC transition' coming out of boost one bit.

Jime

Ok, I don't like your answer but I respect it. I have also had problems with temperature and the UTEC, it don't like it when the temp in the car is below 70 deg, misses like crazy at all but WOT.

I think I will just have to work around the timing issue. The class I am running is 11.99 or quicker so I have to use some sort of boost, can't do that N/A without some sort of magic. I have raced for a few years so i am not too bad at the finish line game as long as my opponent isn't a real Pro.

athenG

iTrader: (2)

I'm thinking of doing this down the road. Maybe let Uprev handle anything below 10 psi and Utec above that if that is possible. I think drivability will be much better since the only way I'll go above 10psi is when I'm WOT. WOT under Utec isn’t that bad. This way I'll still get my knock control and especially the fuel base overboost cutoff that Utec offer and not to mention actually having full control on the timing. I haven’t kept myself updated with uprev but before I didn’t like that I have to use the OEM 02 sensor to tune. I have the Utec Tuner and I will trust that before I trust the stock 02 sensor. Just my 02…

str8dum1

iTrader: (11)

of just buy a used haltech and do it properly

athenG

iTrader: (2)

/\ that is also my plan B since they are cheap now... I'm very comfortable with tuning the Utec so going with a standalone like Haltech can be overwhelming.. I guess I'll switch to Haltech and practice with my stock motor before my build.

djamps

iTrader: (1)

+1 either haltech or bust (100% osiris). I'd prefer a e-manage over a Utec to tell the truth.

binder

iTrader: (8)

intake temp and coolant temps affect the timing with osiris which is why it varies.

the piggyback with anything only changes what the ecu wants so if the ecu shifts it will shift from the piggyback (not sure about utec but all others will still vary with the ecu).

haltech's going for 1000$ are hands down better than osiris. 700$ for tuner cable then you need dual widebands (300ish), upgraded maf (250) then a boost controller (another 300). Then you have something with less function and you have to use multple software and requires a laptop to do any logs. You can't overlay your widebands with the osiris so it makes it a PITA. Best thing i ever did with my car was go to the haltech and have an all in 1 solution with easy software.

Jime

All we need now is for Haltech to include compatibility for the auto with their new Pro Plugin and I would buy one.

djamps

iTrader: (1)

The original Haltech still needs a osiris reflash at least for the auto guys? Pesky codes, 5AT load table? Idle control?

Everything you said was true except the dual wideband part... 04+ has stock widebands and even if you don't you would be using a dyno's widwband anyways for tuning.

Jime

I'm having a hard time justifying UPREV and Haltech for a car that will race mostly N/A in two classes with a small shot of the good stuff to get just under the 12.0 time for semi-pro.

djamps

iTrader: (1)

Didn't know you could spray in all motor classes. You could get by with stock tune/ECU if all you want to do is spray. But I think you'll have a hard time breaking out of 12's with less than a 150 shot on a 5AT and a G35. The 5AT guys also have upgraded valvebodies and the guys with better than 1.9 60ft have a high stall and spray off the line (e.g. ajcool). I'm not sure how you're going to stay consistent enough for brackets with spray though... seems even more finicky than boost with bottle temps and pressure to deal with. Check the drag times section for benchmarks.