Jime

Didn't say I sprayed in N/A classes just that I race N/A most of the time. This year i am going to try the 11.99 and quicker class so I will need spray.
I'm hoping I can better a 1.9 short time considering I ran a 1.58 60' and 10.98@123 on a 100 shot. Yes its lighter but its also FWD on 22" slicks so I think I can get a G to get out of the hole a little quicker than a 1.9. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=XVs-38MDQrU

Don't expect me to do the same thing as everyone else, I do not follow very well.

binder

iTrader: (8)

The IRS on the g is the downfall. When you launch it squats REALLY bad and a lot of the contact patch is lost.

I think someone had a picture of their car on the launch. they were set to 0* camber and on the launch it squats to about 3* of camber. Destroys contact patch. IRS is horrible for drag.

binder

iTrader: (8)

just buy a used older one. Works fine with auto.

not true. you do'nt need a flash to run the haltech on AT. You can use a cipher cable to raise the idle to 900rpm if needed without a flash. Not everyone gets codes either. I haven't blocked any codes on my ecu and i haven't had a single code at all running my haltech.

I never use a dyno's wideband. I always use the dual widebands with my haltech that i will be driving the car with 24/7. No reason to put a tail pipe wideband on a car with accurate dual widebands on it plus if you are tuning in haltech you follow the tune with the widebands in the car to make faster adjustments instead of trying to look at the dyno screen and estimate where that a/f is on your tune.

This is my pet peeve about domestic guys. They say they have a 10 second all motor car when it's on a 300hp shot of nitrous. I'm sorry, nitrous on a car isn't "all motor" like they think it is. 300hp from nitrous is the same as 300hp from a turbo (in the respect that it's adding a substantial amount of power NOT from the engine)

Jime

Do your stock widebands hook to the old Haltech? I like the new one because its a complete replacement and does throttle, E85 etc. Think I will wait a while and see what happens with auto support.

I haven't heard any V8 guys claiming all motor with nitrous, not sure what their thinking is on that.

On the IRS squat, has anyone tried drag bags or stiffening up the rear? Gotta be a fix for that because there are IRS cars running very low 60's.

djamps

iTrader: (1)

You can make up for alot of that with bias plies (which stretch/flatten to form 100% contact on launch). I am pulling high 1.6's, low 1.7's all day on 100% stock suspension.

binder

iTrader: (8)

i don't have widebands on mine. I use the haltech widebands because they are more accurate. The stock ones only read down to 11.25 for some odd reason. I noticed this on my friend's 04.5 that i tuned. I used my LM2 for widebands instead of his stock ones.

look up the new mustang guys. There are a few in low 10's that say they are "all motor" but if you read the specs they have 200hp shot of nitrous.

about the IRS. Depends on the car. I know the GTO's hook hardcore on irs so it varies how it is designed. theirs doesn't increase camber near like ours does when it squats. The cobra mustangs IRS does like ours which is why a lot of guys swap to a straight axle on the cobra to get fast 1/4.

i have some bias ply now but i haven't seen the track with them. They will help a lot on traction. Just sucks that on my drag radials i spin through 3rd gear because of the camber (with 305 mickeys) when camaros can run 285 street tires and hook.

Jime

I don't need anything lower that 11.25 with nitrous so no problemo. I have no problem with hooking up with the Haltech w/b, whatever it takes.

There wasn't a 1.58 60' in my FWD without a lot of trying every trick in the book so I am not too concerned about the G35 RWD.

There is no way I would go to the track without anything but a full slick, anything else is just playing. However it won't be 26" it will be much smaller for the gearing and just to prove everyone wrong like I did for the FWD.

This is my first shot at RWD so it may take a bit of experimenting but it will come with some time and trial and error.

binder

iTrader: (8)

well, the reason i mention they only go down to 11.25 is accuracy. They can't handle a large scale of voltages so they are limited widebands. Plus they are a pain to tune on when you see a portion of the map that is 11.25 you have to wonder "is it really 11.25 or is it 10.25, how much fuel should i pull out for my next pull". So you end up wasting a lot of time because you can't pull 10% fuel out if it really is 11.25 but if it's below that you end up doing pull after pull with small fuel changes until it finally works. very annoying on the dyno. I've also noticed they are slow to respond and not near as accurate as my haltech widebands or Innovate motorsports. I use the hand held innovate ones usually since i know they are accurate and i can calibrate them every use. Logging between the 2 on the same car while tuning quickly changed my mind on using the stock widebands. For an NA car the stock widebands would suffice but i wouldn't trust them to tune a high hp boosted vehicle.

Jime

Gonna PM you Jeff, WOOPS email.