The setup I'm running is a JWT TT 700bb kit w/ built block. My fuel setup is a warlbro 255lph to an Aeromotive A1000 and FPR with RC 1000cc injectors.

My tuner called me today and said that it seems like it's running out of fuel up top. Any reason this could be happening? I figured that my setup would flow more than enough for this.

 

stock rails and/or fuel lines?

 

I should say that I'm not the original builder of this car. But it looks to be stock rails modified into a return setup w/ custom fittings and lines.

 

Have u got a fuel pressure gauge, u need to see if your fuel pressure is dropping

 

He says he has an fpr in op, but that's a good thing to check. On the dyno it shouldn't be an issue.

Your shop can't figure it out? I'd be hesitant to work with them then... That is if you want to push your setup.
What size lines are you running?

 

What are you tuning with? +1 if your tuner can't come up with ideas for more fuel locate a new tuner. I'm building my block now for my JWT 700BB kit. Below you'll find my fuel system choice & EMS. If you're using stock rails no way they'll be supplying enough for your 1000cc injectors. Also the Aeromotive 340 pump is a better investment imo.

~ CJM Stage 2 Return Fuel System w/ Blue Billet Fuel Rails
~~ Aeromotive 340lph In-Tank Fuel Pump
~~ Injector Dynamics 1000cc Injectors

~ HalTech Plug-In Pro ECU Replacement EMS
~~ HalTech Air Temp Sensor
~~ HalTech Boost Control Solenoid
~~ HalTech Dual Wideband Kit w/ 2 Sensors
~~ Dual Wideband Gauge

 

I'm pretty sure that properly modded oem rails can flow plenty actually. I was planning on using them until I found a cheap set of aluminum billet rails for like 60$. Alongside my 1200cc injectors and veyron pump. IMO it's not that small.

 

The EMS I'm running is a HKS Fcon Vpro with Knock amp.

And perhaps I'm jumping the gun on starting this thread since they didn't delve into it yet. They pretty much were tuning it and saw the occurence. They're going to look into it tomorrow most likely.

They're a pretty reputable shop that builds tunes GTRs on a daily basis. I hope they'll figure it out.

 

so you prematured?
Dont you know women hate that...?

 

It's not about the rusty trombone, or dirty Sanchez. It's about passion and spirit.

 

 

My walbro ran out of steam with a CJM stage 2 set up and HKS 1000 cc injectors at 16 psi above 6k rpms. Boosting the voltage to 16.5v gave me plenty of headroom.

 

I installed those "Boost-a-pump" for the Vette guys all the time. I never liked them. Do they work, Yes. But IMO you're just going to wear out the pump faster. Why not just replace with a larger pump? The Vette guys were so cheap though they would boost their factory pump. Anyhow, I'd look into the Aeromotive 340lph pump.

 

^ I don't know that anyone has ever definitively concluded a pump wearing out prematurely because of a BAP. It only activates above 4 psi and output voltage can be adjusted to whatever you need. The key is that voltage is held steady throughout the rpm range. A larger pump is pushing more fuel at idle than it needs to and still drops off at higher pressures, when you need it most. Scaling voltage with a smaller pump seems more efficient.


EDIT: from http://www.kennebell.net/techinfo/ge...Focus_kens.pdf

 

That's the manufacture. LOL Of course they won't bad mouth their own product. And FYI: I've have to sent back BAP due to failure or completely did not work. Also the fuse that came with the BAP was too small for the amps it was pulling and would pop. This happen to one C6 owner at the Texas mile at WOT. Not something you want to happen but it could happen with an aftermarket pump as well. HOWEVER (LOL) if the BAP wasn't pulling and pushing more amperage the fuse would have never got hot. And lets not forget that also all the wiring has that increase load as well.

I guess I rather have a pump at factory 5v produce 340lph vs a factory 5v rated pump at 6.5v produce 125-150% of it's capacity. It's like a turbo. It might be able to produce more boost but it will be outside its efficiency.

 

Gerotor pumps apparently fail with pulse width modulation, so reducing duty cycle is not an option with all pumps. So I'll agree some of KB's responses are not applicable to our cars. The new turbine style pumps I think can be modulated with PWM and I think it is possible to reduce wear and tear at low load and increase performance only when needed (if your EMS supports this).

I don't know enough about fuel pumps to identify precisely how susceptible they are to wear with increased voltage/current applied. If there is only one pump and it fails or the KB blows a fuse, then the car dies, but does not lean out, which is an acceptable outcome for me. So I prefer a KB vs a twin pump. Now there are larger pumps available and I will likely move to the DW300.

 

I wasn't a fan of the twin pump as well. So when I saw the Aeromotive 340 released I was sold.

 

^ Also just fyi, please note that DW300 is spec'd to receive 18 volts. Compare the flow data vs anything else. E85 compatible, 3 yr warranty, and flow at 18v is very good...

 

I feel the same way, and will most likely end up with either the Walbro 400 or Aeromotive 340...

might be a dumb question, but what kind of voltage do we run at our pumps at full go?

 

Nominal alternator output voltage is 13 - 13.5 volts. I have logged the 12v supply line to the coils before and noted that they dropped to under 11.5v at high rpm. I have a HO alternator now though. I wouldn't be surprised if stock fuel pump voltage on stock wiring similarly declines at high rpm, but have never logged it.