Whats your EGT temp at?
Originally posted by daking350
To all those running F/I ...What is a normal EGT temp to be running at? celcius/Farenhieght???
To all those running F/I ...What is a normal EGT temp to be running at? celcius/Farenhieght???
Seeing as most people have complained about problems with cylinder #6, I would assume that #6 would be the leanest running cylinder.
If that is true then your EGT thermocouple should probably be mounted on the exhaust of #6.
Originally posted by daking350
So I should be at 1100-1475 F with those #'s..Thanks doc!!
Long live ZAINO!!
So I should be at 1100-1475 F with those #'s..Thanks doc!!
Long live ZAINO!!
Edit: Oh yeah, long live Zaino.
agreed Jesse...not about zaino, but about the EGT probe 
Even probe type can cause a variance, though most of the ones from the Japnese firms are similar if not identical

Even probe type can cause a variance, though most of the ones from the Japnese firms are similar if not identical
Last edited by Z1 Performance; Jan 4, 2004 at 10:52 AM.
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What Jesse is saying is right..its VERY subjective. You really can only compare the results someone gives you if they give you the rpm point, gear and location/type of the EGT sensor. Short of that and you're just not getting good enough info to compare.
At WOT at the top of 3rd gear (a good gear to use for street tunign, though for the strip i would use 4th gear), I would be looking for temps in the 800C range, assuming you are measuring cyl # 6 about 2-6 inches from the head. If you are measuring it somewhere else, I have no idea where to even start. Cats are HUGE heatsinks (if you still have them), and even moving the probe location can dramatically change the readings you get. Same can be found when you measure AFR...you are likely to get a leaner reading if you m easure it at the tailpipe (such as on a dyno) vs measuring it in the manifold or the collector of the Y pipe. Make sense?
Adam
At WOT at the top of 3rd gear (a good gear to use for street tunign, though for the strip i would use 4th gear), I would be looking for temps in the 800C range, assuming you are measuring cyl # 6 about 2-6 inches from the head. If you are measuring it somewhere else, I have no idea where to even start. Cats are HUGE heatsinks (if you still have them), and even moving the probe location can dramatically change the readings you get. Same can be found when you measure AFR...you are likely to get a leaner reading if you m easure it at the tailpipe (such as on a dyno) vs measuring it in the manifold or the collector of the Y pipe. Make sense?
Adam
Makes sence..Thanks...I dont have cats and have a bung welded on the pipes for when I dyno the guy hooks up the wideband o2 sensor...So I guess if I am getting 11.6-12.0 A/F ratios at the cats(used to be) then thats fairly accurate..Im starting to think that this EGT guage is a waste of time due to the many variables..
we have an aluminum block correct??
Here are some interesting facts I found on aluminum..
Name: Aluminum
Symbol: Al
Atomic Number: 13
Atomic Mass: 26.981539 amu
Melting Point: 660.37 °C (933.52 °K, 1220.666 °F)
Boiling Point: 2467.0 °C (2740.15 °K, 4472.6 °F)
Number of Protons/Electrons: 13
Number of Neutrons: 14
Classification: Other Metals
Crystal Structure: Cubic
Density @ 293 K: 2.702 g/cm3
Color: Silver
British Spelling: Aluminium
IUPAC Spelling: Aluminium
Now given those facts and the current comments from Z1performance..If I was running an EGT of 800-900Celcius...Wouldnt I MELT my block?(considering it is 100% aluminum which I doubt)
Here are some interesting facts I found on aluminum..
Name: Aluminum
Symbol: Al
Atomic Number: 13
Atomic Mass: 26.981539 amu
Melting Point: 660.37 °C (933.52 °K, 1220.666 °F)
Boiling Point: 2467.0 °C (2740.15 °K, 4472.6 °F)
Number of Protons/Electrons: 13
Number of Neutrons: 14
Classification: Other Metals
Crystal Structure: Cubic
Density @ 293 K: 2.702 g/cm3
Color: Silver
British Spelling: Aluminium
IUPAC Spelling: Aluminium
Now given those facts and the current comments from Z1performance..If I was running an EGT of 800-900Celcius...Wouldnt I MELT my block?(considering it is 100% aluminum which I doubt)
ATI reccomends an EGT and to never exceed 800 at 12.5 during WOT. That is from the Tech that wrote our manual.
I did exceed 800 and well "that's the way the cookie crumbles." We all know the song. You need a boost guage with it though to use it right.
As an aside the BOOM you hear is being exagerated, it is more like a boom boom out go the lights not like a sonic BOOM. You just know, well at least I do and I wouldn't wish it on anyone.
Widebands are great if you are a self tuner, I am not. I also do not like fuel running up into my cockpit.
My EGT stays at 0-200 during normal driving in my A5T at about 40 degrees avg outside and located same exact place as yours. I have learned to tell when I am pushing it by watching the EGT for months on different setups, a lean one and now a slighty rich one. The Crawford for example bumped me up higher so I can pretty much determine my A/F ratio went more lean just by watching my EGT. We could discuss Niobum splatters on SRB's and chemistry etc and never get anywhere but the bottom line is learn what your A/F is at either by wide band or flash then watch your boost and EGT.
It takes allot of time, there is no real clear cut answer like Jesse says; it's vehicle specific and you just have to guage watch.
When I am WOT at 5 to 6 lbs I am fast approaching 600-700 now on my GReddy EGT and the warning meter is set to alarm at 800 so I know now to back off and Granny drive until I get reflashed.
So it's just a process but I wouldn't consider an EGT "useless."
Because pre Crafword at 5 lbs and WOT I was 500; not closing at 700 so it played it's role and helped me not boom.
Here is a visual of the RT's so those that don't have them can get a visual, they but right up to your headers and my bung for the EGT is after the header but before the CAT.
I think the best scenario is that new awesome AEM myself but I am tired of throwing money at this thing. Sometimes I wish I just bought a C-6 hehe J/K (No I really am not.)
I did exceed 800 and well "that's the way the cookie crumbles." We all know the song. You need a boost guage with it though to use it right.
As an aside the BOOM you hear is being exagerated, it is more like a boom boom out go the lights not like a sonic BOOM. You just know, well at least I do and I wouldn't wish it on anyone.

Widebands are great if you are a self tuner, I am not. I also do not like fuel running up into my cockpit.
My EGT stays at 0-200 during normal driving in my A5T at about 40 degrees avg outside and located same exact place as yours. I have learned to tell when I am pushing it by watching the EGT for months on different setups, a lean one and now a slighty rich one. The Crawford for example bumped me up higher so I can pretty much determine my A/F ratio went more lean just by watching my EGT. We could discuss Niobum splatters on SRB's and chemistry etc and never get anywhere but the bottom line is learn what your A/F is at either by wide band or flash then watch your boost and EGT.
It takes allot of time, there is no real clear cut answer like Jesse says; it's vehicle specific and you just have to guage watch.
When I am WOT at 5 to 6 lbs I am fast approaching 600-700 now on my GReddy EGT and the warning meter is set to alarm at 800 so I know now to back off and Granny drive until I get reflashed.
So it's just a process but I wouldn't consider an EGT "useless."
Because pre Crafword at 5 lbs and WOT I was 500; not closing at 700 so it played it's role and helped me not boom.
Here is a visual of the RT's so those that don't have them can get a visual, they but right up to your headers and my bung for the EGT is after the header but before the CAT.
I think the best scenario is that new awesome AEM myself but I am tired of throwing money at this thing. Sometimes I wish I just bought a C-6 hehe J/K (No I really am not.)
Also, my old Muffler welder guy told me that if you exceed 1000 degrees F on your exhaust is begins to discolor and is "too hot" ; then again I think he is on crack and ths the "my old" as in I don't go there anymore comment.
800 celcious sure seems pretty hot though, what is the Temp on Mars?
800 celcious sure seems pretty hot though, what is the Temp on Mars?
You won't melt your block, no...I don;t know where that info came from, hence I would not rely on it for any sort of accuracy. Forged pistons don't melt do they......800C, if measured at the manifold, and from the leanest cylinder, is not particularly hot for an EGT...its pretty much at the sweet spot, thoguh this is really generalizing.
EGt is avery useful gauge when taken into account with other factors (timing, AFR, knock)...I consider EGT mandatory to those who tune their own setups.
EGt is avery useful gauge when taken into account with other factors (timing, AFR, knock)...I consider EGT mandatory to those who tune their own setups.
hey MAx, did ATI say 800 celcius???I am simply tring to determine if I need to get a Greddy EGT instead of the auto meter which maxes out @1600 F...But there must be a reason why it maxes at that number...if what Z1 says is correct I will be running close to the limits of my guage @ 800 and 800-900c is ideal which contradicts what ATI suggest...So who is right?



