hey guys
so i just finished my build non rev up. hks 2530 tt dw880 injectors custom 3 inch exhaust i have a tuner cable but apparently osirus doesnt provide basemaps. any help is appreciated

 

The stock tune is your base map unless your tuner can provide you one of his own. There are no random base maps floating around the net like some other platforms.

 

Were you planning on tuning that all by yourself?

 

No shot, unless it's idiot proof my motor is basically bullet proof sleeved blueprinted crank cosworth heads ect. But my first though is to just get it moving some can drive it 40 miles to the tuner. Right now the only laptop I have is my I pad so I haven't even been able to download the software. Any tips? do most people tune osirus themselves.? I got the tuner cable.

My buddy ryg left himself logged on my computer I'm just noticing the username

 

I suspect you'll just need to take it easy for that 40 miles and stay well away from boost. Let the tuner do what he does best.

 

I'd have it towed to the tuner. You're not on a stock block compression ratio anymore.

 

+1 40 mile tow is NOTHING compared to the overall build cost. Just make a phone call and be done.

 

sleeved motor for a pair of GT2860's? interesting.

if you dont wanna tow, just throw in stock injectors and run on the stock ecu map. car will run perfectly fine. i drove my built motor all the way to chicago from NC just like that to get tuned. Just swap the injectors at the tuner. Takes 20 mins.

 

I was planning on going with bigger turbos in the near future I'm sharing funds between this project and my daily driven g37 with my own custom mid mount turbo kit. Have you ever seen it done any clearance issues?

 

are you asking about clearance on the midmount kit? You said custom built right? if you're building it then i would say you are the one that decides if you put the turbo too low.

stupid idea of having a boosted daily driver and a highly modified other car. Asking for disaster and having 2 cars down. especially when you ask simple questions like "will i have clearance".

 

No somebody suggested gt28s on my z with the hks turbo kit. I know from my past jwt 530 kit you need to change the manifold for bigger turbos. The question was has anyone seen gt28s on hks manifolds. Binder don't be a dick cause I can afford to have 2 boosted vehicles. If you do things right the first time you won't be breaking parts. I'm actually in the process of producing this mid mount kit to be for sale to the public, I'm no fly by night fabricator.

 

i dont care how much money you have. There are guys with 100k+ into a build and it still is going to have problems. You could be a millionaire but you are still going to have issues with any boosted vehicle so it's never a good idea to ONLY have boosted vehicles.

i'll bookmark this post so you can refer to it when the **** hits the fan. Doesn't have to be a shitty build for normal things to wear out and fail. Look around the forums and you will see.

 

remind me never to help this guy.

If your rolling in so much money, why don't you just have your car towed to your tuning shop. Stop asking this forum for help when you can obviously buy it elsewhere.

Sleeved and bullet proof..........yeah about that, maybe go search a little about all the sleeved motors that are still running.

 

LMAO

 

reading this forum for many years I've noticed the motors that tend to fail most often are the ones that are fully built ***** out nuts and bolts aka "bullet proof".

good luck mr. cocky.

 

I'm not being cocky or or bragging. I don't like being called out on my knowledge of the z or my skills as a fabricator. I didn't even mention my custom built mid mount turbo kit for my g until after the suggestion bigger turbos. Not to mention who the eff would put a single gt28 on a g37? I hate people who think there smart and have that if you have to ask you'll never know mentality. There's tons of shops and people who street tune their cars that will have a map that I could use. Its not money why I'd rather not tow it. my cars slammed with a molded body kit so I can't just take off the bumper to get it on a tow truck. Why is everyone so quick to jump the bandwagon of flaming me.

 

Go read this thread: https://my350z.com/forum/tuning/5188...ing-101-a.html

You'll definitely want to pay attention to this part when getting started:

More about the "K Constant"
--------------------------------
The Injection Multiplier "K Constant" is one of the primary values that an ECU uses to calculate injection times for all parts of the maps. By adjusting this value, we will affect everything else.
Your K Constant should not change unless you are using different injectors or MAF.
If changing injectors or MAF, the new K constant can be calculated based on the ratio of old vs new.
You can calculate a rough estimation on your new K constant when making changes to get you "in the ball park" -
- For injector changes: New K Value = (Stock K value) * (Stock injector size) / (New Injector Size)
- Bigger injectors will result in a smaller K value.
- MAF are compared based on max horsepower reading.
- For MAF changes: New K Value = (Stock K value) * (Stock MAF max HP) / (New MAF max HP)
Since the formulas are a rough starting point, you will need to verify/adjust your K constant by running the engine and checking the AFR in a region of the fuel map that is running in "closed loop" (AFR = 14.7:1).
However, while in "closed loop", the O2 sensor will be active and the Engine will "chase the O2 signal" unless we:
A) Physically unplug the O2 sensor
B) Turn off O2 feedback in the cells of the fuel map
C) Disable the O2 Sensor
You may also need to disable knock sensing if the ECU is jumping to the knock maps while you're trying to get your K constant set correctly.

Once you have your K dialed in, you can use djamps' tool for tuning your MAF voltage table to get things dialed in fairly close for your basic AFR, then use RTT to make sure that you're safe throughout your individual map cells by using fuel compensation - or at least reasonably safe to get it to your tuner. Just remember that you could be playing with fire while you're trying to get it close, and that's a lot of risk versus paying someone with a winch, ramp extenders, and a lowboy to take their time getting your car safely in the tuner's hands.

 

Calling binder a dick was a good lead into the inevitable- especially when all he did is point out the obvious regarding 2 highly modified vehicles of the likes we probably get half a dozen new "HELP!" posts a week from people "who did it right." Some have already paid the price of "doing it wrong" and INSISTED on doing it right and are still in here almost weekly to troubleshoot a new problem that keeps their car off the road.

Especially calling him a dick because you can afford two boosted vehicles? Bad play- outright rude and inflamatory... not to mention unecessary. His point is valid and it's coming from someone who spends a LOT of time in here helping folks just like you (well, not like you) with their issues.

You come across as a smart guy- with enough intelligence to understand that forums harbor the elite and opinionated- often both and sometimes neither. They are respected (cough tolerated cough ) by those who don't know anything (the general masses) because- though they can have a bit of sand in their teeth sometimes- if you show a willingness to help yourself and do some legwork they can be the most pleasantly accommodating group of guys around. That's forum politics EVERYWHERE- and if you don't like it then sir, PFO.

The reason people are in here riding on Binder's wagon despite him saying what you're doing is "stupid" is that... well... what you're doing isn't what most would say is a great idea- no matter how smart you think you are or how much money you have. I can stuff it as full of cotton candy as you like but a rose by any other name... "Stupid" is an abrasive way of putting it- sure- but if you take all the time to ensure you don't hurt someone's feelings you'd never get anywhere.

And guess what? WHEN something goes sideways on one of or both of your cars and you come in here looking for some guys who can point you in the right direction- well, you already called one of the best helpers in here a dick and then pissed off a bunch of others in the top 10 list.


Mulligan?

 

if your not breaking crap your not driving it how its ment to be driven. the whole "if you do it right it will be fine" is a fallacy, trying to tell me the $300,000 nascar engines or $500,000 top fuel/funny car engines arnt done correctly? they both break all the time and are done far better then what anyone on this site has as evidence of the cost, most of the engines cost more then peoples dream builds for the entire car.

also you are obviously off to a good start to getting your potential product to the market, everyone is going to read this and just jump on your product over sasha's. i did not read anyone insulting your fabricating skills you jumped to being defensive though. personally i wouldnt trust someone who cant simply go out and use a tape measure though, if your such a master even if it dint fit there shouldnt be a problem with you changing it so it does fit.............

 

this post is nail on the head. i have not had any issues with of the vets on this forums, and the z is my first turbo vic. sure had pleanty of nitrous and have built motors before but turbos where new, granted if i was curious about fitment on a kit i already had i would look up the spec on google since they are readily available and then go measure my car............