SparkleCityHop

iTrader: (30)

Where can I find Tuning 101 / DIY Tuning information?

First, I'm not looking for anyone to "teach me everything that I need to know about tuning" in this thread. I'm also not under the delusion that I'm going to just buy a cable and start tuning my own engine.

My plan:


Tuning 101 / DIY Tuning - I want to learn the basics
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I am purchasing the UpRev Tuner cable w/ Cipher and I was wondering where the best place to read and learn about tuning basics could be found? I'm open to online resources, books, classes, time with a local tuner, anything really. I'm too much of a tuning idiot at this point to even ask questions in this sub-forum.


eTune to start - Healthy fear
--------------------------------
Ceiling cat told me "Bad tune make Z go boom", and I have a healthy fear of tinkering. Also, I don't have to rely on my Z as my only car/DD.
I'm planning to immediately buy a base e-tune from UpRev for a good starting point, but I want to be able to log using Cipher and interpret the logs and learn - but not to make changes to the tune initially. I will disable the codes for my test pipes so that I can actually know if a valid code comes up instead of ignoring the light. Only after I can have intelligent conversations with other tuners on here will I even consider touching my tune.


Dyno Tune - I don't want to follow blindly
-----------------------------------------------
I want to understand all of the basics of tuning before I put my car in the hands of a tuner for a dyno tune. I want to be able to understand the changes that the tuner makes to get the results that they do. I also want to be able to understand the risks and trade-offs of different changes that they make. Then I want to become comfortable reviewing my logs, determining any items that need attention, and making the necessary adjustments to correct issues.
When I have someone dyno tune my car, I will want them to use my cable so that I can work with their tune later, make adjustments, etc.


Thanks!
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If my plan above is seriously flawed, please make suggestions. I'm thick skinned and realize that the real tuners likely face-palmed at least once when reading this noob post.

SparkleCityHop

iTrader: (30)

I'm starting out by reading the article "Engine Tuning Basics" on the Import Tuner Magazine website.

Also, here are the links for both Osiris and Cipher User Manuals from Uprev -

Osiris User Guide:
http://uprev.com/UpdateFiles/softwar...er%20Guide.pdf

Cipher User Guide:
http://uprev.com/UpdateFiles/softwar...er%20Guide.pdf

SparkleCityHop

iTrader: (30)

Tuning Basics
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OEM tunes are based on assumptions about how much air will flow at different engine speeds and loads.
As you make changes to your engine that aren't stock, you will change this airflow.
Maintaining the correct ratio of air to fuel is key to realize the potential of the engine.
If airflow increases, fuel delivery must also increase to match the best target AFR (air flow ratio).
Increasing air & fuel means bigger explosions, higher temps, and pressures in the combustion chamber, which can increase the chance of detonation, requiring engine timing adjustments to compensate.
Tuning fuel delivery and ignition timing is 90% of the equation for a good tune.
Tuning is about compromises - balancing maximum power and engine safety.

SparkleCityHop

iTrader: (30)

Basic Fuel Tuning
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Dialing in the AFR is one of the most important a basic aspects of engine tuning.
Even slight changes can have a dramatic effect on power output, drivability, and emissions.
AFR is air:fuel - 13:1 means 13x as much oxygen as fuel.
The ratio that burns both completely is a stoichiometric mixture, or stoich (14.7:1), which is considered an "ideal" AFR.
However, stoich does not magically net maximum power and an engine should be tuned to different AFRs under different loads and RPM.
Compared to stoich, a higher AFR is "lean" (less fuel than air) and a lower AFR is rich (more fuel than air).
Slightly rich mixtures leave extra fuel in the chamber, which can be good for cooling the intake charge and warding off detonation. However, rich mixtures can cost horsepower, decrease mileage, increase emissions, and leave carbon deposits.
Extremly rich mixtures can cause fuel to run past the cylinders and rings to contaminate the oil and possibly damage the cylinder walls and rings.
Slightly lean mixtures leave extra oxygen in the charge, usually increasing mileage and lowering emissions. However, they burn slower and at higher temperatures, which can cause burned valves, detonation , and other problems, especially under high-load/WOT (wide-open throttle).
For NA (naturally aspirated) cars, AFRs should usually range from 14.7:1 at idle and very light throttle, 14:1 to 13:1 at partial throttle, and around 12.5:1 at wide-open throttle.
FI (forced-induction) cars have off-boost targets similar to NA engines, but under boost are tuned to run rich, leaving extra fuel in the chamber for cooling and to reduce the chances of detonation. On 91 octane pump gas, most tuner use conservative AFR targets under boost around 11:1 to 12:1.
Tuning fuel delivery is accomplished by increasing fuel pressure, increasing injector size, modifying the signal to the injector, or adding additional injectors. Increasing fuel pressure can be accomplished with a rising-rate fuel pressure regulator. Modifying the signal is done electronically by programming or piggyback devices.

Mint Racer

iTrader: (1)

http://www.amazon.com/s/ref=nb_sb_ss...gement+systems


i bought the first one. good read it will teach u a lot.

SparkleCityHop

iTrader: (30)

Electronic Fuel Injection Tuning Concepts
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The Fuel MAP is a gird with engine speed on one side and engine load on the other.
The MAP or MAF sensor tracks engine load, and based on engine RPM, the ECU determines the correct amount of fuel from the Fuel MAP.
The oxygen sensor is the device that measures the AFR, and is necessary for tuning.
The oxygen sensor is mounted in the exhaust and measures the oxygen leaving the combustion chamber.
A wideband is necessary for accurate tuning since it is faster and has a usable AFR range of 10:1 to 20:1, while a narrowband only reads near stoich - 14:1 to 15:1.
A rising rate fuel pressure regulator is an inexpensive device used with some low priced forced induction kits to increase fuel pressure proportionally to boost pressure. It only works with return-type fuel systems and since it does not change the signal to the injector, it cannot be fine tuned.
Injector Signal Modifiers/Generators that change the signal to the fuel injectors are generally one of the following: ECUs, AFCs, piggybacks, or reflashes. These devices add or subtract fuel according to the sideband in order to hit their AFR targets in the Fuel MAP.
Most fuel-injected cars have a MAP or MAF sensor to measure the engine load. This is because the target AFR needs to vary depending on the load.
A MAP (manifold-absolute-pressure) sensor is mounted on the intake manifold and measures pressure or vacuum inside the manifold and airflow can be calculated.
A MAF (mass-air-flow) sensor measures airflow directly.

SparkleCityHop

iTrader: (30)

Awesome, I'll be ordering it tomorrow. Thanks!

SparkleCityHop

iTrader: (30)

Spark Tuning Concepts
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A spark map should be developed on a chassis-loading dyne.
Developing a good spark map isn't as straightforward as tuning the fuel with a sideband sensor.
The car is run on the dyne and for every RPM and load bin, the ignition timing is advanced until torque starts to drop off. The point right before torque drop off is MBT (mean best torque).
The problem with this method is that many engines will encounter knock and most will encounter ping before reaching MBT, so it is important to rely on a knock sensor.
Typically, the low-load stock ignition timing is best. It's mainly under high load and with higher compression pistons, etc. that areas may need to have some ignition advance removed.
When tuning ignition timing with a knock sensor, you simply reduce the timing advance under the conditions that you encounter knock.
You can also reduce the chances of knock by reducing the intake air temperature.
The IAT (intake air temperature) sensor measures the temperature of air as it enters the engine. Cold-air intakes and intercoolers exist to lower air temps so that more ignition-timing advance can be used, which adds power unless you've hit MBT.
Detonation, or knock, is when the air/fuel mixture ignites before the cylinder reaches maximum pressure. There is a specific sequence of timing for the explosions occurring in your engine, and detonation puts stress on the engine in ways that it wasn't designed for.
Low-octane fuel, high-compression ratios, advanced ignition timing, high intake temperatures, are the most common causes of detonation.
Detonation is the cause behind broken pistons and bent rods.
Preignition is when the mixture ignites before the spark plug fires due to isolated hot spots (carbon deposits)in the combustion chamber.
Programmable ECUs allow us changes at any point in the Fuel MAP that we encounter knock, but somemay retard the timing for the whole RPM map instead of only the RPM where knock occurs.

mx594

iTrader: (4)

The Greg Banish books are good. I learned more from reading those books than i did from years of reading forums. Buy the second book in that link.

SparkleCityHop

iTrader: (30)

This guy has built a website to answer the Noob types of questions that I have about engines, tuning, etc. and I'm working my way through the wealth of info. He doesn't sell anything, so it's a great source of fairly unbiased information.

More Power Website

SparkleCityHop

iTrader: (30)

Thanks, maybe I'll go ahead and get both.

SparkleCityHop

iTrader: (30)

Conventional (NA) Engine Modification Concepts
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Getting more power by conventional NA tuning is at best difficult and expensive.
The only way to increase power is to increase airflow through the engine.
There are many components, and your results will only be as good as your most restrictive component allows:
- Bigger engine bores / pistons (machined to increase capacity / displacement)
- Bigger engine stroke (offset ground machined crankpins and shorter connecting rods)
- Better flowing tubular exhaust manifolds and system
- Better port shape in the head (ported head)
- Bigger inlet and exhaust valves fitted with specially shaped valve seats
- Higher compression ratio
- Longer duration and higher lift camshaft
- forged pistons (for strength)
- stronger connecting rods (to cope with higher RPMs)
- upgraded oil pump/system (for reliability at higher RPMs)
- Crank / Connecting rod lightening, balancing, strengthening (to cope with higher RPMs)
A fully tuned and "built" race engine is costly, expensive, loud, and unsuitable for street use.

SparkleCityHop

iTrader: (30)

Forced Induction (FI) Basic Concepts
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Normal atmospheric pressure is 1 bar, which is equal to 14.7psi. This is the fastest speed at which air will rush in to fill a vacuum without assistance.
Boost is "assisting" the air in being pushed into the combustion chamber.
The amount of boost is also measured in bars/psi. In a perfect world where the expected returns didn't diminish, adding 1 bar(14.7psi) of boost would produce twice the power from your engine.
FI applications require running richer AFR and lower compression ratios as boost increases to avoid knock.
Turbos use the forced of the exhaust gases to spin the turbo and generate boost. Turbos experience lag because the engine has to be generating enough exhaust gases to spool up the turbo and begin generating boost. Turbos can also improve fuel economy due to their efficient design.
Superchargers use the engine to drive a compressor and generate boost. Superchargers are always generating additional power and do not experience lag. Superchargers have reduced fuel economy because of the power being sapped to drive the compressor at all times.
Nitrous Oxide does not create boost. Instead, denser quantities of Oxygen (N02) are injected along with additional fuel to accomplish the same result (more oxygen + more fuel). Nitrous is only good for a short term "hit" and the bottle will run out and need to be replaced. Nitrous is comparably inexpensive, is not a vehicle specific investment, and has no effect on tune, fuel economy, etc. when not in use.

djamps

iTrader: (1)

It's good to see others as enthusiastic to learn about our tuning platform. So far most of the 'tuners' for the VQ are holding their supposed secret sauce close and not sharing much info. I do applaud and thank Vince @RTT for sharing his knowledge... so far he's the only pro tuner (other than Uprev themselves) that has ever chimed into any of my threads answering VQ and Uprev specific Q's.

I'd be happy to answer any uprev or VQ specific questions for anyone, but general tuning and engine management knowledge (90% of the deal) needs to be learned through reading and research!

Good luck to all and be sure to share your experiences.

John@z1

iTrader: (2)

When I dyno tune with Osiris I usually try to bring the client back to the dyno to show them the basics. I try to give them a good idea of what's going on. This way if they ever buy a cable they have the basic knowledge of how it works.

SparkleCityHop

iTrader: (30)

I'm going to try to document my learning experience in this thread. I don't know that it will be helpful to others in the future, but it's a start.

Those who race & compete are understandably going to want to keep information close to their vests. Vendors selling their services are also understandably going to keep their R&D to themselves because it doesn't make sense to spend time & money just for JoeSchmoeRacing to steal your hard work and sell a copy of it as his own.

I don't expect to ever reach the level of the real tuners that do this day in and day out, so that isn't my end goal. However, it is important to me to have a healthy understanding of what is going on inside my engine, how a tune affects it, and where different tuning changes put me on the slider between:


Reliable/Safe ---------------|----------------- Moar Power
....................................^You are here


Again, thanks to everyone that is pointing me towards good resources for research. I just ordered both books off of Amazon that were suggested earlier.

ImportPartsPro

iTrader: (512)

I bought that one too. Another easy free reference to tuning basics can be found here
http://www.plmsdevelopments.com/file...ing_basics.pdf

Obviously that one is based around NIStune, a daughterboard that allows you to re-program the pre OBDII Nissan ECUs, but you will find that the info there is still really helpful.

SparkleCityHop

iTrader: (30)

That's a great idea and believe me - you, Sharif, and CIN are all on my radar for the future. I'm not even at the point where I would be comfortable with you showing me the basics, because I wouldn't know enough to ask the right questions. I don't want to start making major tuning investments/changes/dyno-tune until I understand what is changing. This is because I'm a cost/benefit guy every day at work, and that mentality naturally flows into my decisions about my car as well.

Buying an immediate e-tune for $50 isn't for me to squeeze out more power, it's to have a safe base to start from. When I can make an educated decision about moving my engine's slider closer to "Moar Power" instead of "Safety/Reliability", I'll be looking to the experienced dyno tuners for help.

Being a business man, I would think some tuners may either insist on locked Osiris tunes or a Confidentiality/Non-Disclosure agreement that an unlocked tune could be modified and used for your vehicle, but that none of the map details, etc. could be shared with others. I would think that might be necessary to keep JoeSchmoeRacing from stealing your work and selling it as his own. Is that the case, or are the tunes so different from one car to another that a specific tune isn't considered "proprietary information".

SparkleCityHop

iTrader: (30)

Thanks. That's a great link and I'll read it front to back after work today.

I read all of the Osiris/Cipher/UpRev manuals last night front to back and understood 17.891% of the tuning instructions. There are just so many terms and nomenclature that I don't have a grasp on yet. They kept mentioning "K" - try googling "K" and engine management - hahaha. I facepalmed when I realized just how much I have to learn.

ImportPartsPro

iTrader: (512)

K = Injection multiplier