Where is your vacuum gauge source coming from?

The vacuum reading on a stock block should be in the -20 range. This would indicate a vacuum leak at the manifold or a hose coming off of it. I would not worry about the small exhaust leak at the moment on the V-band if that is all you found, this would also not be causing the -15hg on the vacuum gauge.


On the pump side, once it is working (sucking oil) there is nothing to worry about after that. There will always be oil inside the hoses draining a bit of oil back to the gear pump, priming the pump for the next start-up.

Like I mentioned over the phone…. while the pump is running, you can loosen the line connected to the reservoir outlet at the turbo. If you keep loosening it, you should start to hear hissing. This is the pump sucking air in (vacuum) since there is a minimal amount of oil in the reservoir.

At this time I would focus on why you are seeing -15hg of vacuum at idle. Once that is resolved see how the car runs, and then go on from there.

I am trying to clear a Saturday to have you bring the car in, so I can go over the entire install. Just sooo busy though with getting these kits out..

 

Vac/boost sensor is tapped off the manifold directly underneath the brake system vac line.

I am also concerned with the vac reading but after pressuring everything up and listening I can't find any audible leaks so I'm kind of at a loss. Actually, come to think of it, I only listened under the car, my wife was listening at the manifold....hmmmm...I will verify with my own ears at the manifold tonight.

How much effect on vac would there be by having a bit of an oil burner? (06 Revup was replaced under warranty by previous owner, he stated the replacement didn't burn at all, it does burn a bit)

No need to clear a day for me, I'll get it figured eventually or light it on fire and push it over a cliff.

 

You put a breather on your (innovative!) reservoir, correct? (so air can enter from there anyway when no oil in system)

 

The breather was removed once the check valve on the feed line was implemented. I have my car set up this way, and there isn't the slightest hint of oil in the exhaust. Going strong now for about 12k. It is a completely closed system now.

 

Tightening the vband more will not fix it. You have to tighten the vband down completely BEFORE tightening either of the header/collector flanges. If you tighten the 3 bolt flanges first then the vband will never seal perfectly.

Precision doesn't use "seals" like other manufacturers. They use a ring type seal like a piston ring. When air is being sucked through and exhaust forced through the turbine it creates a pressure on that seal that causes it to expand against the walls of the center housing. The more exhaust pressure or boost pressure on the cold side the stronger the seal of the ring. When the car isn't running and there is no pressure differential the oil can slightly seep past those rings if there is residual oil left in the center section. Similar to how you can turn an engine over slowly by hand and the air seeps past the piston rings. So these don't have rubber seals that go bad like other turbo manufacturers.

Could be a leak at the header allowing air to enter upstream of the o2 sensor or whatever vac leak your are experiencing is causing a bank to bank difference. So one bank probably has a significant air leak somewhere.




I have mine capped off as well with no issues. Been capped off for a year and a half now.

 

Update from tonight.

Tested for leaks again and couldn't find a damn thing other than the vband whisper. Started the car and checked for leaks at the exhaust manifold-head connection. Nothing we could find and the sound level doesn't reflect a leak there.

I didn't change anything but idle vac reading was at -17 tonight. Was at -15

Ran the cylinder power test again. Shutting down 1,3 and 4 individually actually smooth out the idle a little while 2,5 and 6 almost stall the car. Swapped coils from 1 and 2 and no difference so I'm ruling coils out. Swapped in a brand new plug to 1 and no change so plugs are ruled out. No surprises there but nice to know for sure.

The injectors are wired in correctly using the harness that Sasha provided for me and they are installed correctly - fully seated, rails torqued to correct spec. Fuel pressure was set at 45 psi with vac line disconnected and has been steady at 42 psi with the vac line connected to the FPR.

The lower manifold gasket appears to be in good condition with no scratches/tears/indentations of any kind.

I am scratching my head now. Was hoping to find a leak I missed or injector issues. Sasha, any hope in hell you can come by and check it over? I'm going to leave it stripped down to the lower manifold for now since I can't drive it in it's current state anyway.

Recap of issues:
-P0300 code
-sounds like it has a miss so P0300 is legit
-cylinder power test reveals 1,3,4 are not running properly
-idle vac reading varies from -15 to -17
-all vac/exhaust leaks I've been able to find are fixed
-idle AFR was perfect on first two starts with base map according to Zeitronix
-idle AFR is now perfect on bank 2, 28-30 on bank 1 according to oem wb readings in Cipher, Zeitronix reads 17 in merged exhaust stream

 

If I were you I would take it to Sasha and let him look it over....it's not like he is far away.

 

I've been trying but he's been way too busy with kit orders/370z kit development. No other customers would get that support so I've been trying to figure it out on my own.

 

I think I bought your N2O kit? Do you have Azzzies old car?


Also there is an Uprev tuner in RedDeer.

 

Yep, that's me.

I know about that shop but I've heard mixed reviews over the years. Enough that I'm not comfortable taking the car there. I have a lead on a mechanic that I'm going to try to get to come over to check the car out while it is apart and reassemble so he can troubleshoot. Obviously, no one knows the kit better than Sasha but anyone with turbo/Nissan engine experience will be way more likely to figure it out than I will on my own.

 

1 and 3 are on bank 1 and your bank 1 is very lean. That makes me think that the problem with 1 and 3 is either too little fuel (injector problem) or too much air (leak).

The idle vac is an issue too. I would have to have the car in front of me to test things but it's definitely not right at -15/17

 

Do you think its possible that the lower gasket is leaking on just those three cylinders causing the low vac reading, lean condition and misfire code? I would be very surprised given the lack of noise when pressure testing and the physical condition of the gasket but it would be nice if one simple gasket solved all the problems at once.

Is there any way of testing the injectors short of removing them and taking them to a shop that has a test bench? It seems pretty unlikely that 3/6 brand new DW injectors would be faulty and I would doubt even more that Sasha wired the harness incorrectly.

 

They are Bosch injectors, and yes you can test them. All they need is a ground and positive 12v, and you should hear them click (one by one of course). Sorry had to go to Calgary today, so I have not been around.

You cannot screw up the injector wiring. There is no polarity, as it is just a magnetic coil, and as long as there is current going throgh it the valve will open. This inturn "fires" the injector.

Did you plug the two wastegate ports that not used (both on the lower side of the wastegate)? The fittings come with the waste gates? I have been tryong to figure this out during the 6 hour drive, and that is the only thing I can think of that may be kit related.

I know this car had nitrous oxide before and was driven hard, and we just don't know the mechanical condition of this engine.

 

Yes. Both ports were plugged.

It ran fine last year on and off nitrous. Idled properly, ran well street driving, no issues on the dyno, strong at the track. Dual widebands to monitor AFR and never saw a lean issue. Only issue from before is the one I've mentioned, it burns oil. I never saw smoke last year but the oil level was down.

This is the key in my mind, it ran perfect when I parked it so the only things that could be wrong are new parts I've installed or parts I've wrecked while working on the car.

I've been through the install front to back and all the way back to the injectors and nothing I can find is wrong though.

 

what BOV are you using? if its HKS make sure the O ring between the flanges is sealing properly. I had a big leak on my HKS coz i cracked the O ring when I was installing it

 

It is a Tial BOV. I should have heard the leak when I pressure tested it if the o ring was not sealing. I had a leak at the banjo bolt initially just because it wasn't tight enough and it was easy to hear.

Thanks for the input.

 

Sorry if I missed it, but have you tried removing and reseating injectors? If you don't lube up the o-rings before insertion, sometimes they fold or tear on insertion into the fuel rail, which can cause fuel and/or air leaks at the injector.

 

No, I haven't tried that. I am going to now though and will report back. Thanks! I would have thought they would leak right away and not after the first couple of starts but who knows, it's definetly worth a shot

 

not sure if it would be one simple gasket but you could check it. The lean condition would easily cause a 0300 multiple misfire.

I would try the injectors like Raj suggested. Orings are easily pinched.

 

Have you done a compression and or/cylinder LEAK DOWN test on all Cyl?
Here's some info:
http://www.dietersmotorsports.com/Co...akdowntest.htm