jeff he's using a manual boost controller

 

Vince at rt tuned it I wasn't there but seems like he with a conservative tune that would keep the tq down but still make 400hp

Just my guess, although I would have thought he would have had the timing around 18-20 up top

 

oh, that would explain boost tapering to redline then. As backpressure goes up at the higher rpms the wastegate will leak a little more and drop manifold pressure just like a total spring system. manual boost controller helps a bunch but still allows some taper.

 

again..get a good electronic boost controller and a re-tune /thread

 

You right, I dont. I did not tune the car...Vince at RT Tuning did. I dont plan on tuning it...just asking questions. No one is messing with anything and dont plan on it. Thanks again for your input.

You right. Vince did say it was a conservative tune and that he could go a little more but I was all excited at the time that the car made 400hp and wanted to drive the car so I said its OK. The car runs really smooth as is, but lacks that pull up top. Im just going to leave it as is for now and then next year get a 3" downpipe, 5psi wastegate spring, Haltech electronic boost control solenoid and then get a little more aggressive tune and see where that lands me.

 

Tap your IM with a 3/8" NPT tap, from there run a 1/4" ID hose to the lower port of your w/g and have even boost all the way to 7k. Use fuel line hose (re-inforced) for this, as it is recommended by Tial. I have a 8.7psi spring in the MV-S gate, and my boost log on the Haltech is dead eaven at 8.7 without the EBC. It is as if the boost line was deawn with a ruler. If you do this, take it back for a tune since you will have more boost up top, needing more fuel.

 

OK, Im running a turbosmart hypergate wastegate 45mm with a 7 psi spring and a Turbo XS manual boost controller. With the re-inforced hose can I still cut it and put the controller inline?

 

The only reason I say re-inforced is to indicate that it does not collapse under vacuum. You do whatever you want with it.

Actually, don't drill the manifold, drill the charge pipe just before the TB. That makes things easier/faster and just as effective.
This is how I send the kits out now, with a nipple already installed in the charge pipe. So all the customer has to do is run
the hose from the charge pipe to the wastegate. Nice and easy.

 

you shouldn't have any issues running the manual boost controller inline with that new hose.

do you have a haltech currently? If so you can get a mac solenoid on ebay for 20-30$ which is all you need to run the haltech boost controller. You can easily get that out of your manual boost controller so it would be an easy purchase (sell the manual, buy the solenoid).

Remember, on a turbo setup torque will taper off up top so it never feels like that massive midrange hit when you get in the upper rpms unless you keep increasing boost to keep the torque raising.

 

seems like a few pic's of how your vac/boost ref lines are ran would help

on my setup bov, wg, boost gauge and etc all had it's own source, only thing tee'd was the mbc with the wg and it held rock solid at 10psi from 4k to 7200 less the temp dropped then it would go to 11 or 12psi sometimes.

I still say check the simple things 1st and go from there, boost/exhaust leaks, vac/boost ref lines, fitting

I remember back in the day when my nitrous would not activate and it was cause the new carpet I installed was thicker than the original, lol