if you want to go down this path, go to my FS thread. I've got the clutch pack kit you'd want and a spare tranny in great condition.

If you want more than 600whp with reliability get a th400 etc or swap in a manual

do remember though 550whp through a loose stall+auto is actually quite a bit of hp, LOL

 

I change ATF every 6k miles (every other oil change). Goes from light to dark pink, sweet smelling fluid. Should not smell burnt. Just a hair under 5 qts for a drain and fill - very easy with the plug on our transmision pan.

If you ask around, you will find places that will claim they can build the 5AT to hold 700 to 800 whp. I have yet to see one that runs reliably at that level. So I am considering something else, now that I have turbos that are efficient to 30 psi and I am stuck at 18.

EDIT: One thing I do not understand is why our (my) trans holds 600 wtq no problem in the midrange but slips at 500 wtq at high rpms. If anyone has insider information on pump operation relative to rpm please let me know. I don't believe we have variable flow pumps but I have heard conflicting reports from various transmission builders.

EDIT #2: A 6MT at these power levels is not a cake walk either apparently with all the threads on slipping clutches and what not... A rebuild of an already built 5AT is around $3k all said and done. Not much different than putting in a new clutch in a 6mt...

 

Has anyone have experience with IPT (Import Performance Transmissions) for their build ?

 

Seems like running either the GTM stage 3 or upgraded clutch packs will get the 550whp goal but anything over is better off just going with a th400. Thanks RC. I am pretty happy with my current power level. If my tranny shall decide to take a crap on me it seems Mr.G's tranny will suffice for my goals. Or do you think just upgrading the clutch packs will do the job?

 

mrg1981 and I have identical trans rebuilds by the same trans builder in Nevada. Our transmissions have the TransGo valvebody upgrade, Alto clutch packs, and ProTorque converter. I don't know anything about the Exedy clutch packs for the 5AT, but the Alto clutch pack upgrade is proven. It also increases the number of clutch plates versus OEM.

Unlike mrg1981 and rcdash, I have zero miles or dyno time on my fully built trans. My build project evolved and the power goals have increased beyond the capability of a fully built 5AT. Therefore my fully built 5AT is for sale.

Like rcdash said, some trans builders claim 600-800whp capability for their 5AT builds. Even though GTM advertises that their fully built trans held 643whp (IIRC) and mrg1981 made almost 700whp on ProEFI's dyno, I have yet to see anyone maintain those kind of numbers beyond a single dyno session. Also I have yet to see anyone accomplish over 700whp on a dyno with a 5AT. Low to mid 500's is the most I have seen anyone successfully maintain with any reliability or longevity. Both mrg1981 and rcdash have proven that a fully built 5AT can last at that power level with frequent fluid changes. If you plan on consistently driving and/or racing your car above 550whp, ditch the idea of fully building the 5AT and look at other transmission options.

 

You already have the valvebody upgrade and an aftermarket torque converter. Provided that both are still in good condition, all you need to add is the Alto clutch packs.

 

Thanks Rude...So how often do you change your tranny fluid..? So Mr.G, RC, and Rude all have built tranny's and change their fluid fairly often. Hmmmm..Guess I will do mine every other oil change as well.

 

Also wouldn't it be more beneficial to leave TCS on while in boost rather than turning it off for more traction?

 

Rudeg2.0, you haven't even used your freshly built 5at and its already for sale? What power levels are you trying to attain?

 

You don't want to leave TCS on. I turn it off as soon as I start the car. My ProEFI has traction controls, but I don't have those enabled either. The factory TCS is not designed for a car with that much power, and it definitely doesn't act how you'd want.
Mvp - I believe Rude is shooting for over 1000whp, thus looking at other trans options. He has had some major hurdles in his build, as have I. We both got screwed on our original trans and we rebuilt.
Beast- I don't know what he's going to go with, but your trans with the alto clutch packs will handle over 500whp.

 

Initially when I had my trans built, my plans were for 500-700whp (before I learned that a built 5AT isn't really capable of sustaining 700 whp reliably) with pump gas + water/meth injection. My goals have since changed to 700+whp on E85 with capability to go for 1000+whp if I decide to change to a bigger turbo sometime in the future.

 

Not with this much power added over factory.


Again as rude said, the only thing you're missing is the alto clutches. Like I said earlier I've got a set BNIB.

Clutch packs improve the friction plate material, and bump up the number.

They'd also be a good idea to replace because these are the weak link at your power level. Some people in the titan community have had the stock ones slip to sh** with power added and a shift kit, and others have pulled theirs out and been clean. Really hard to say.

About any oil in any aftermarket car, if you drive your car harder, you need to replace it sooner. Just remember that. Doesn't matter if it's engine, tranny, whatever, those oil molecules break down over time and loose their ability to lubricate slowly. More quickly if they see more intensive use.
PS I HATE HATE HATE the smell of auto tranny fluid
PPS I went auto to manual swap because I've talked to someone on here who went through 3-4 build re5's that kept on letting go at around 550whp. In the same ballpark cost as a fully built re5, but much more reliability and the potential for the power goals I seek.

 

If I were to do it again, I would have done the 6MT swap.
I had some issues while building the 5AT. Valvebody took a poop and brought the bill up another thousand.
Installed a Defi temp guage to monitor trans oil and found I was running around 200*+ during break in. I had already installed the largest B&M cooler with fan but still saw the high temps from the small lines. I decided to go with bigger lines and a PML trans pan which brought my temps down significantly to 140*-170*. All that bumped up the bill another thousand.

Resmarted- how much did the swap cost you?

 

Good to know!

 

Reading this thread makes me so glad to have a 6mt.

 

I have considered a 6MT swap and might go back to a manual as I do miss it sometimes. However, I know the car will be slower, even at marginally higher power levels. Sure driver skill is a key component, but also how aggressive you are with the equipment. With an automatic, there's just no worries. Hold your foot to the floor and click through the gears.

 

Rather have 1000hp and not have to worry about my transmission disintegrating and costing me 3k, than being marginally faster at 550whp

The mph/gearset you get on the manual with an 8k rev limit and 3.3fd is ludicrous. 2nd gear highway pulls.... O.O

 

Anyone have link for BM tranny cooler?

 

here's the one i have:
http://bmracing.com/?wpsc-product=hi...2-diameter-fan

Here's the pan also

http://www.yourcovers.com/transpan_11091.php

 

Sorry to ask, but is there any oil cooler too big for the tranny. I use Setrab oil coolers and I just want to make sure I don't dimension them too big. I see that Stillen uses the series 1 from Setrab that is 8.27" wide and 19 row that is 5.75" tall and 1.83" thick. Maybe a fan pack on that and call it the day, or should I go with bigger ?? 6 series that is 13" wide ??

Thanks for any suggestions, and thanks for all the great info in this thread. I have to read up on changing all internals I can in mine as well.