Max hp from upgraded auto tranny...
Hello all, So In brief I am the new owner of coachk's old car and love how well it was put together. Car currently sits at 13psi and I was thinking of raising it to 17psi on pump. Tranny is fine right now at 13 but I was curious if any auto FI guy's have ran 17psi without any issues with the SGP vb, TC, and tranny cooler and fan. Or If I should just leave as is and mod up the clutch packs at a later time. I am trying to get 550whp. Thanks.
I also saw on GTM website their stage 3 auto tranny putting down 600+ on their dyno. I was also recommended to go with exedy clutch packs. Would exedy be better than the kevlar clutch packs?
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Found my limit at 57x whp at 6k rpms DD on Hal's dyno - limited by transmission apparently. Not sure what that is DJ but I suspect over 600 whp. I will find out. 30k miles on the GTM built 5AT at around the 500 whp level though - might need a refresh. Might need to consider alternatives this winter. mrg1981 has a ridiculous power # on the top 50 list, so he'd be the one to query.
Last edited by rcdash; Jul 26, 2012 at 07:59 PM.
Thanks, Rude for the link to this thread.
I apologize for not responding to your youtube message. I assume you are Rod, as that is the only message I have recently. I didn't mean to blow you off, but you didn't send any questions, just a request to call you. I really have to schedule calls for a specific time and my availability is very limited. I stay pretty swamped as a CEO, father of 3, chamber council member, sub-committee chair, BSA treasurer, church instructor, and certified work-a-holic!
I am happy to answer what I can, but I'm not the least bit knowledgable on how anything actually works. I rely on Intense Power and Pro-EFI to know how it all works and to advise me on the next steps with the car. I can, however, tell you my experience. Rude and RCDash know the technical end a lot better.
I recently added an iBoost switch to my Z, programmed with boost levels of 7, 11, 14, 22, and 25 psi. I now drive it regularly on each of the 3 lower settings (7 through 14). On 14psi, it put down 525whp. On 22psi, it made 693.5whp.
Prior to adding the iBoost switch, it was set to 14psi on low boost and 22 on high, and I drove it on low boost daily. I have had this re-built transmission in the car since about May of 2009. I have put around 20k miles (guesstimate) on the transmission since then. I have made several passes at the track on low boost (11.39 @ 122mph). I have not made a high boost pass. Since the car is convertible, the above pass was my first and only run in the car's current configuration. I am confident that it is a 10 second car on low boost.
I have not had any issues with the transmission, other than the tuner telling me it was slipping on high boost on the dyno. I have not been able to replicate this on the street, but I don't often turn the boost past 14. My transmission is fully built, of course. It has Alto clutch packs. These are among the most commonly used for our trans.
I would definitely NOT push your boost without a properly built transmission. Both Rude and I can attest to the high cost and lengthy timeframe required to rebuild or replace your auto trans after it blows! Mine blew on 01/04/2009 and left me and my wife stranded in the middle of nowhere. Here's what a blown trans cost me:
$1008 for towing from location to kingman and back to gilbert and overnight storage.
$240 taxi ride to Vegas
$150 rental with diff state return
$500 to freight a trans to and from a builder
$7000 to disassemble, diagnose, repair, and build a new trans properly!
5 hours sitting on the side of the road
4 days of a ruined anniversary trip to LV!
1 very angry wife!
Congrats on the Z! I know Coack built a great car, and you are lucky to be the new owner. I wish you the best of luck with the car and any build you do. If you have any questions (of a non-technical nature), I'd be happy to help. You can email me at marshall at discountps dot com. I also am happy to get on a call together. I am currently PST. Just send me an email and we'll work out a day/time.
I apologize for not responding to your youtube message. I assume you are Rod, as that is the only message I have recently. I didn't mean to blow you off, but you didn't send any questions, just a request to call you. I really have to schedule calls for a specific time and my availability is very limited. I stay pretty swamped as a CEO, father of 3, chamber council member, sub-committee chair, BSA treasurer, church instructor, and certified work-a-holic!
I am happy to answer what I can, but I'm not the least bit knowledgable on how anything actually works. I rely on Intense Power and Pro-EFI to know how it all works and to advise me on the next steps with the car. I can, however, tell you my experience. Rude and RCDash know the technical end a lot better.
I recently added an iBoost switch to my Z, programmed with boost levels of 7, 11, 14, 22, and 25 psi. I now drive it regularly on each of the 3 lower settings (7 through 14). On 14psi, it put down 525whp. On 22psi, it made 693.5whp.
Prior to adding the iBoost switch, it was set to 14psi on low boost and 22 on high, and I drove it on low boost daily. I have had this re-built transmission in the car since about May of 2009. I have put around 20k miles (guesstimate) on the transmission since then. I have made several passes at the track on low boost (11.39 @ 122mph). I have not made a high boost pass. Since the car is convertible, the above pass was my first and only run in the car's current configuration. I am confident that it is a 10 second car on low boost.
I have not had any issues with the transmission, other than the tuner telling me it was slipping on high boost on the dyno. I have not been able to replicate this on the street, but I don't often turn the boost past 14. My transmission is fully built, of course. It has Alto clutch packs. These are among the most commonly used for our trans.
I would definitely NOT push your boost without a properly built transmission. Both Rude and I can attest to the high cost and lengthy timeframe required to rebuild or replace your auto trans after it blows! Mine blew on 01/04/2009 and left me and my wife stranded in the middle of nowhere. Here's what a blown trans cost me:
$1008 for towing from location to kingman and back to gilbert and overnight storage.
$240 taxi ride to Vegas
$150 rental with diff state return
$500 to freight a trans to and from a builder
$7000 to disassemble, diagnose, repair, and build a new trans properly!
5 hours sitting on the side of the road
4 days of a ruined anniversary trip to LV!
1 very angry wife!
Congrats on the Z! I know Coack built a great car, and you are lucky to be the new owner. I wish you the best of luck with the car and any build you do. If you have any questions (of a non-technical nature), I'd be happy to help. You can email me at marshall at discountps dot com. I also am happy to get on a call together. I am currently PST. Just send me an email and we'll work out a day/time.
Thank you so much Mr.G. So I am really thinking about just staying at 13psi right now with the current setup. How much power do you guy's think i am making currently? Do you remember what Coachk last said he made? I believe I saw a thread where he made 527 on a DJ I believe. Again thank you very much for being so helpful Mr. G and RC. Yes that is me Mr. G on youtube. It would be awesome to cruise with you and RC sometime. I wonder how closely our builds compare.
Mr. G what size injectors are your running? You utilizing a traction control. My car get's so damn squirrely with the toyo rrr 305's on the back still.
Here is my mod list: APS TT( Tuner kit)
JE Forged Pistons 9:1 comp
Eagle H Beam Rods
JWT C8 Cams/valve springs
HKS Head Gaskets
ARP L19 Head Studs
ARP Main Studs
ACL Race Bearings
RevUP Oil Pump
Forged Actuators w/red springs
Deatschwerks 650 injectors
Crawford Plenum
Koyo R-Core Radiator
Samco Hoses
APS 3.5 Test Pipes
Greddy EvoTT Dual Exhaust
Zex Nitrous Kit
EdgeRacing Torq Conv
SGP Valve Body
B&M Tranny Cooler
Defi Gauges..Innovate Wide band
UTEC EMS
This should be a 130 trap car according to last guy who tuned the car at Hoffman Tuning at the current level of 13psi. Thanks again. I have so many questions. Sorry. lol.
Mr. G what size injectors are your running? You utilizing a traction control. My car get's so damn squirrely with the toyo rrr 305's on the back still.
Here is my mod list: APS TT( Tuner kit)
JE Forged Pistons 9:1 comp
Eagle H Beam Rods
JWT C8 Cams/valve springs
HKS Head Gaskets
ARP L19 Head Studs
ARP Main Studs
ACL Race Bearings
RevUP Oil Pump
Forged Actuators w/red springs
Deatschwerks 650 injectors
Crawford Plenum
Koyo R-Core Radiator
Samco Hoses
APS 3.5 Test Pipes
Greddy EvoTT Dual Exhaust
Zex Nitrous Kit
EdgeRacing Torq Conv
SGP Valve Body
B&M Tranny Cooler
Defi Gauges..Innovate Wide band
UTEC EMS
This should be a 130 trap car according to last guy who tuned the car at Hoffman Tuning at the current level of 13psi. Thanks again. I have so many questions. Sorry. lol.
I will focus on doing cosmetic and audi upgrades then. I love these ssr's but will be powder coating them and Coach had some blown back speakers with stock radio. FTL. lol...
Thank you so much Mr.G. So I am really thinking about just staying at 13psi right now with the current setup. How much power do you guy's think i am making currently? Do you remember what Coachk last said he made? I believe I saw a thread where he made 527 on a DJ I believe. Again thank you very much for being so helpful Mr. G and RC. Yes that is me Mr. G on youtube. It would be awesome to cruise with you and RC sometime. I wonder how closely our builds compare.
Mr. G what size injectors are your running? You utilizing a traction control. My car get's so damn squirrely with the toyo rrr 305's on the back still.
Here is my mod list: APS TT( Tuner kit)
JE Forged Pistons 9:1 comp
Eagle H Beam Rods
JWT C8 Cams/valve springs
HKS Head Gaskets
ARP L19 Head Studs
ARP Main Studs
ACL Race Bearings
RevUP Oil Pump
Forged Actuators w/red springs
Deatschwerks 650 injectors
Crawford Plenum
Koyo R-Core Radiator
Samco Hoses
APS 3.5 Test Pipes
Greddy EvoTT Dual Exhaust
Zex Nitrous Kit
EdgeRacing Torq Conv
SGP Valve Body
B&M Tranny Cooler
Defi Gauges..Innovate Wide band
UTEC EMS
This should be a 130 trap car according to last guy who tuned the car at Hoffman Tuning at the current level of 13psi. Thanks again. I have so many questions. Sorry. lol.
Mr. G what size injectors are your running? You utilizing a traction control. My car get's so damn squirrely with the toyo rrr 305's on the back still.
Here is my mod list: APS TT( Tuner kit)
JE Forged Pistons 9:1 comp
Eagle H Beam Rods
JWT C8 Cams/valve springs
HKS Head Gaskets
ARP L19 Head Studs
ARP Main Studs
ACL Race Bearings
RevUP Oil Pump
Forged Actuators w/red springs
Deatschwerks 650 injectors
Crawford Plenum
Koyo R-Core Radiator
Samco Hoses
APS 3.5 Test Pipes
Greddy EvoTT Dual Exhaust
Zex Nitrous Kit
EdgeRacing Torq Conv
SGP Valve Body
B&M Tranny Cooler
Defi Gauges..Innovate Wide band
UTEC EMS
This should be a 130 trap car according to last guy who tuned the car at Hoffman Tuning at the current level of 13psi. Thanks again. I have so many questions. Sorry. lol.
If you aren't going to drag race at the track fairly regularly (not 2-4 times a year, but 1+ times a month), I wouldn't push the boost any higher. As you pointed out, the power you have now is already unuseable on the street. Pushing 17psi wouldn't really gain anything on the street. Here in AZ, the streets are freaking sticky! I have BFG drag radial t/a's in 295 and they do the job. Obviously, I can sit and smoke them all day if I want to, but after lots of practice, I can keep it 100% controlled and open it up at the same time.
I'll post my build specs in a separate post to avoid a wall of text.
FYI, I'm considering a transmission swap to an ultra lite TH400. If I do that, I'll be selling my trans. Just keep that in mind.
Only use J-Matic. That's what Nissan transmissions call for. I change mine every time I have a track day and frequently in between. It's probably overkill, but I am very cautious. No idea on the amount, since I don't change it myself.
Forged Z
2006 Nissan 350Z Roadster
Daytona Blue Touring Model
693 WHP and 650 Ft-lbs @ 22 PSI on C16
Performance:
Fully Built Long Block
Fully Built 5-Speed Drag Transmission
Greddy Twin Turbochargers
Greddy Front-Mount Intercooler
Trans Cooler
Full Fuel Return System
750CC RC Injectors
CJM Twin Fuel Pump Assembly (Walbro 255’s)
Tial Blow off Valve
NGK Iridium 1-Step Colder Spark Plugs
AAM Spec 3 inch MaxFlow True Dual Exhaust (Titanium)
AAM Spec 3 Inch MaxFlow Dual Downpipes
8000 RPM Rev Limit
Motordyne 5/16” ISO Thermal Spacer
Engine: Fully Built Long Block
Carrillo Forged Rods
ARP Rod Bolts
ARP L19 Head Studs
CP Forged 8.5:1 Pistons (.02 over)
JWT Upgraded Cams
JWT HD Valve Springs
HKS Metal Head Gaskets
Revup Oil Pump
Cam Seals
5 Angle Valve Job
Valve Stem heights Set & Cold Clearance Set
Ported Exhaust and Intake Runners
Heads Oil Passages Cleaned and Redecked
Block oil passages cleaned and Redecked
Block bored and honed using a torque plate
Crank balanced
Crank journals polished
Main and Rod bearings w/ceramic coating
Engine Management:
PRO-EFI 48 PIN ECU
Technosquare Limited Spec Reflash
Boost Solenoid
Wideband Sensor
PSI Sensor
Map Sensor
Fuel Pressure Sensor
AFR Sensor
Defi-Link Meter BF Boost Gauge
Defi-Link Meter BF EGT Gauge
Defi-Link Control Unit II
Pro-EFI CAN Gauge
Stereo, Interior, Exterior:
Vertex full Bumper Body Kit (Front, Rear, Sides, Wing)
Custom Painted Interior
Pioneer Avic Z1 with IPod hook up and Bass switch
Custom Fiberglass Enclosure with 2 MTX TA8500 10" Subs
2 Pioneer Rev Rear Speakers
MTX Mid and High Component Speakers
Custom Amp display with Z logo and Blue Neon Lights
MTX TA7801 4-Channel 1200 Watt Super Amplifier
TA5601 Mono Block 600 Watt Amplifier
Earthquake Capacitor, and Street Wires Fuse Box
Kinetik - 800 Watt 12 Volt Power Cell
Reverse/Backup Camera
Limo Tint
Engine Bay:
Greddy Grex Front Strut Tower Bar
Greddy Radiator Cap
Greddy Oil Cap
ARC V2 Catch Can
Intense Motorsports Polished Intake Manifold
Intense Motorsports Polished Intake Piping
Stillen Carbon Fiber Engine Cover
NRG Carbon Fiber Hood Dampers
2 1/16” Koyo Radiator
Samco Hoses, Blue
Optima Red Top 12-Volt, 720 CC Amps Battery
Handling:
Stance GR+ Coilovers
KSport Adjustable control Arms
Camber/Caster Alignment Arms
AP Racing 6-Piston /2pc 14.25" Rotor Front
AP Racing 4-Piston 2-Piece Rotor Rear
Driveshaft Shop 900WHP Rear Axels
Front: Forgestar F14F 18x10 +16mm Gun Metal
BF Goodrich KDW NT 255/40-18
Rear: Forgestar F14F 18x11 +23mm Gun Metal
BF Goodrich Drag Radial TA 295/35-18
2006 Nissan 350Z Roadster
Daytona Blue Touring Model
693 WHP and 650 Ft-lbs @ 22 PSI on C16
Performance:
Fully Built Long Block
Fully Built 5-Speed Drag Transmission
Greddy Twin Turbochargers
Greddy Front-Mount Intercooler
Trans Cooler
Full Fuel Return System
750CC RC Injectors
CJM Twin Fuel Pump Assembly (Walbro 255’s)
Tial Blow off Valve
NGK Iridium 1-Step Colder Spark Plugs
AAM Spec 3 inch MaxFlow True Dual Exhaust (Titanium)
AAM Spec 3 Inch MaxFlow Dual Downpipes
8000 RPM Rev Limit
Motordyne 5/16” ISO Thermal Spacer
Engine: Fully Built Long Block
Carrillo Forged Rods
ARP Rod Bolts
ARP L19 Head Studs
CP Forged 8.5:1 Pistons (.02 over)
JWT Upgraded Cams
JWT HD Valve Springs
HKS Metal Head Gaskets
Revup Oil Pump
Cam Seals
5 Angle Valve Job
Valve Stem heights Set & Cold Clearance Set
Ported Exhaust and Intake Runners
Heads Oil Passages Cleaned and Redecked
Block oil passages cleaned and Redecked
Block bored and honed using a torque plate
Crank balanced
Crank journals polished
Main and Rod bearings w/ceramic coating
Engine Management:
PRO-EFI 48 PIN ECU
Technosquare Limited Spec Reflash
Boost Solenoid
Wideband Sensor
PSI Sensor
Map Sensor
Fuel Pressure Sensor
AFR Sensor
Defi-Link Meter BF Boost Gauge
Defi-Link Meter BF EGT Gauge
Defi-Link Control Unit II
Pro-EFI CAN Gauge
Stereo, Interior, Exterior:
Vertex full Bumper Body Kit (Front, Rear, Sides, Wing)
Custom Painted Interior
Pioneer Avic Z1 with IPod hook up and Bass switch
Custom Fiberglass Enclosure with 2 MTX TA8500 10" Subs
2 Pioneer Rev Rear Speakers
MTX Mid and High Component Speakers
Custom Amp display with Z logo and Blue Neon Lights
MTX TA7801 4-Channel 1200 Watt Super Amplifier
TA5601 Mono Block 600 Watt Amplifier
Earthquake Capacitor, and Street Wires Fuse Box
Kinetik - 800 Watt 12 Volt Power Cell
Reverse/Backup Camera
Limo Tint
Engine Bay:
Greddy Grex Front Strut Tower Bar
Greddy Radiator Cap
Greddy Oil Cap
ARC V2 Catch Can
Intense Motorsports Polished Intake Manifold
Intense Motorsports Polished Intake Piping
Stillen Carbon Fiber Engine Cover
NRG Carbon Fiber Hood Dampers
2 1/16” Koyo Radiator
Samco Hoses, Blue
Optima Red Top 12-Volt, 720 CC Amps Battery
Handling:
Stance GR+ Coilovers
KSport Adjustable control Arms
Camber/Caster Alignment Arms
AP Racing 6-Piston /2pc 14.25" Rotor Front
AP Racing 4-Piston 2-Piece Rotor Rear
Driveshaft Shop 900WHP Rear Axels
Front: Forgestar F14F 18x10 +16mm Gun Metal
BF Goodrich KDW NT 255/40-18
Rear: Forgestar F14F 18x11 +23mm Gun Metal
BF Goodrich Drag Radial TA 295/35-18
I am going to buy your car some day hopefully Mr. G. lol. I am glad to have you as a new friend. So do you have any new vids of your baby? I loved all the ones on youtube. Any new track vids or kills on the street you can link me too or pm me? Again thanks for all the very insightful and helpful knowledge. I will have to post a video of mine as well.




