Why do threads always have to degenerate?

ATI claims in writing that you can make 8 lbs with the "7 lb kit
." Read EJ's letter from them it's here somewhere.

I asked a question as to why my 7 pound kit had more teeth than everyone elses and no one answered. Why? I asked that for a reason, I was making 8 lbs.

1. I say DS Loops are required after racing 4 years and everyone says "no they are not."

2. The big deal was "RT Cats cause you car to go lean." I posted a plug and proved they didn't.

Now this?

The plug is very easy to read, it isn't filled with oil and they are firing properly (insert ridicoulous statement here)

BTW I have driven to 6800 rpm's in the previuos kit for dynos sake and my current setup made 5 lbs at 4k, where do you get this stuff from? Who said I had never been above 3k? Probably the same guy that said DS Loops are not required and took a hit off the N20 bottle is my guess.

So I probably had an 8 lb kit before the Crawford when everything was dialed in, now I probably have a 10 lb kit but need to reflash and watch my rpm's or rebuild my internals but I will never know till I go flash.

BTW, "What is a 9lb PSI Dyno Sheet? Never heard of that.

 

Wow..Someone got defensive real quick...I meant 9PSI of boost..Or 9lbs however you put it..I would investigate as to why your pulleys have more teeth than the rest of us but I think more teeth would cause the sc to spin slower no?..Oh wait a minute, Max,This pic shows the UR pulleys still on your car minus the Crank pulley..Did you leave them on?That may be the cause of you getting different boost levels than the rest of us..I dont even get into boost until 4000rpms and only register 6.5-7psi total..Maybee the lighter smaller pulleys have something to do with it???Has anyone determined if running the Crank pulley will slow down or speed up the SC and increase or decrease boost??It may actually help rev the engine faster and get into boost faster? Hmm..I think I smell another topic for debate to come...SC+underdrive pulleys...Do or Dont..

 

If you have an underdrive crank pulley it will decrease boost.

That pic is obviously pre SC because the top pulley is removed entirely when you install the SC kit.

 

Ok..That makes sence..Then what would the effects of having an UR crank pulley lowering boost.Then adding a 9psi pulley?Would this bring you into the 8psi range but allow the engine to rev up faster??Would that be benificial or detremental??

 

Daking with all due respect, you have lost me. You are posting pics of my N/A setup that was a 13.4 and 13.6 and confusing my plug conditions, and pulleys and pics all in one thread. I'm trying to follow but it is hard ( the thread no me lol )

I don't base dynos on pounds of boost was the point that I tried to make ;and I am not defensive, I think I should insert smilies throughout all of my posts. Some say I "type angry" I am sitting here calm as can be drinking a Rock Star, listenening to Pink Floyd and slowly waking up. This is as calm as my day will be, I only got 4 hours sleep. It's all downhill from here lol.

 

You can't use the under drive crank pully on the Procharger BTW.

Your rasing good points though. Why *DO* I make boost at 2800 if I want to and you don't?

 

One last thing just to be clear then I will stand back and wath the fire like an Arsonist would hehe RockStar kicking in.

I do not plan on suing anyone, ATI or otherwise. My car runs good, I should have waited to buy FI that is all. I thought it was installed incorrectly so pursued that but as far as suing etc I don't have time for that anymore my Fed position has heated up and ATI's tuner kit (like I am running it) is actually a pretty good kit. I just took the long way to get to it ha-ha so try and prevent others from doing so. Would I do it again? No. Will I sue anyone, no. Is my car fast? Yes. Faster than yours. Peas!

 

Faster than mine to what????BLOW UP....
HaHa...

 

My guages are hooked up at least, where are we going with this thread?

I am going to TS Wednesday (maybe Tuesday if I can) and going leaner not fatter. So to get the thread back on track I think 11.5 is too rich for FI (based on what my plugs saw) when running 380cc injectors, I am gonna shoot for around 11.8 this time.

 

12sec - remember, the car runs differently on different days....so some days it might run a bit fatter, other days a bit leaner, all based on what the ecu is seeing in terms of intake temps, humidity, octae of fuel, quality of fuel, etc.

This where standalones start to really shine......on many, you can disable this "learning" function and run strictly the map you (or a tuner) inputs...no interferece from the 02 sensor, knock sensor, etc etc. Downside is that obviously its not for everyone, and takes alot of programming time to to get it to a safe yet powerful map (ie, not for a daily driven car).

Your plugs in the last pic you posted look spot on..I would not change a thing honestly. If it were me, I'd spend my time getting timing curves made to be as close to ideal as possible (which inherently changes your AFR anyway), as opposed to playing with fuel trims.

11.5 might be too fat for max HP, but it certainly is safe (remember guys, fuel is a coolant). Given the cars compresion, I'd give up 20 hp to have it stay together myself.

A DS loops most certainly IS required BTW..I posted the NHRA rules in the other section this afternoon. I will copy and paste the rules from IDRC and NOPI later on.

 

So what is the stand alone to get if it were you? Dual mapping of course. Not a hacked up self made wiring harness version either.

Good points thanks, I will remember that when I go reflash, focus on the timing. Thanks again Adam!

 

As for fuel maps in 2 days I need to adjust for the Crawford's
increased air though right? The plug pic was pulled while we were adding the Crawford. I guess ideally I could drive another thousand and check again but based on my EGT readings and that I make boost faster now I think I need tto have it checked.

I do not want to drive to LA and back trust me.

Another fear is that I have seen reflashes come out worse than orinal flashes the old don't fix what isn't broke idea.

 

There are no plug an play versions of any standalone out for the Z, and I would not expect one anytime soon (I know of A version that will be out at some poin, but the Z is far from teh first car that is going to be released....in other words, not anytime soon).

As for the other choices, they will all have to be wired in. How you do it can vary. I have my own personal favorites, but in all honesty, I have found it makes very little difference whcih unit you end up selecting....they all do the same thing. The only thing I have found the selection of which ecu nets you is aporval or disapproval from the internet masses.......

The much more important consideration, and where you cannot afford to cut corners, is WHO will be tuning the car. If it were me, unless you plan on learning and mastering the software yourself, I'd go for a standalone that has large tech support available from local shops. It will cut down on downtime, and make your ownership experience (of something that can be a very frustrating item to own) much more enjoyable and enriching.

 

hahahaaaha.......very true

i'm hoping that HKS will put out their unit soon.......since they're showing off with superchargers now, i can't imagine that engine management would be too far behind