Deleted.

 

I'm not sure the different.
Wonder if I need to get one too.........?

 

holy fack op.

Hate to be "that ******* on the forum" but that was a massive mistake.

Anyway good luck man! Honestly I hope you enjoy the car!

 

I thought the supplied FMU can still handle this... no??

If I want to use the In Tank, do I need to get UpRev or something??

 

Haha, why? Cause I could've gone turbo and made more power? There's two sides to that coin right? With 400-500ft-lbs of Tq @ 3500 rpm, I'd start to get pretty worried about my engine internals in a couple of years. I want this car to last a long time without needing more money.

Reliability and longevity is much more important to me than beating a V8 off the line...I rarely street race at all anymore, and when I do it's usually a BMW or VW or something, almost never a domestic...

I'm not looking to turn my Z into a drag queen, just make my daily drives funner, without sacrificing reliability.

 

No just should have kept the money for the GTR!!

Nothing wrong with making a non drag car. Hope you enjoy it though!

 

You really need to research before you start swapping stuff out. The supplied FMU requires the inline pump to raise the base fuel pressure during boost. No matter what is in your tank, without that inline pump you won't be able to use the FMU.

If you want to get by with just the in-tank pump you will need bigger injectors AND uprev.

 

So a dump question from me.
Can I kept the inline pump with a larger injector?
Or with larger inlector I need to switch to in tank pump?

 

Gotcha.

Sounds like the way to go will be to keep the stock 3.33 Pulley on there, w/ Inline Pump? Then when I get a chance to get to the UpRev Tuner, we could install the 3.12" pulley, In Tank pump + UpRev.

OR I could stick with the Inline Pump + 3.12" pulley and just take the car quickly to a local tuner who can just use the SSB.

Really appreciate any thoughts...

 

Just when I thought you guys understood, you thru another curveball question out there....

Everybody here is trying to guide you to a workable configuration, I've done all of the leg work over the last 9 years and know what will work and what will not, plus i've worked as a Mechanical Engineeer in Automotive for over 35 years. You guys go 1 step forward, and 2 steps back.

I think you guys need to go to school and take Automotive 101, 102, 103 and then a late model Fuel Injection System Class and a Fuel Injection Class for FI, before getting involved with this type of modification to your cars, unless you just have an endless supply of Money coming in from mom and dad.....

Sincerely,

TimRod

 

Oh LAWD! Btw, I have an OSIRIS Uprev License/Cable for sale

 

x2 on Research/Education > Boosting.

Never boost a normally N/A car unless you truly understand some of what you're doing. Or you have a large surplus of money and are just going to pay someone if/when it breaks.

And if that's the case, you shouldn't be plotting this out, you should be taking the car to a good shop and having them order everything.

The Vortech base kit is about as simple as it gets. It's also about as safe as boost gets.

But if you want to start changing that setup and upgrading it, now you better know what the heck you're doing, because those kits CAN make enough power to blow up your engine

 

Could not have said it better after reading this:

You are really misinformed about FI systems and how they work on factory N/A cars.

 

Wow this thread has taken a turn for the worse... believe it or not it's tricky piecing together information from dozen's of forum posts, ambigous references acronyms and conflicting opinions. There's no "boosting and tuning a vortech 101" out there! And ever penny I have I've made myself.

I'm doing all the research I know how to do, which is why I'm here. I'm pretty familiar with engines, FI and how it all works, maintaining a healthy AF ratio etc, what I'm not familiar with are the tuning options that come with the Vortech Kit and 350z's in general.

Here's my assumptions, correct me if I'm wrong:

• The Vortech Kit has a mechanical FMU that raises fuel pressure with Boost
• Said FMU only works with Inline Pump
• The Vortech kit also includes a Timing Control (SSB) which can control both Fuel and Timing
• Out of the box the SSB has fuel maps pre-tuned to be safe with the 3.33" pully
• This tune is said to run extremely rich

What's not clear to me, and where I need some clarification:

• Should I use the Walbro In Tank + Inline tank together?
• Is it safe to ugrade to the 3.12" pulley on the stock vortech fuel map, since it runs so rich anyways?

My plan at the moment would be to install the 3.12" pulley, on the stock vortech fuel maps, and then take the car to a dyno to have the AF ratio's dialed in.

 

Are you saying that that much boost would not put a huge amount of additional stress on my Engine Block??

The TC is generating 8lbs of Boost from 3500rpm on, where the SC doesn't reach that until the end of the Powerband. Seems like the TC is putting the engine under high boost for a much higher percentage of the time.

Ok, proceed to tell me what an idiot I am

 

With an EBC you can make the boost curve as lenear on a turbo system as on a s/c system. You can also make the torque do whatever you want through tuning timing. It is not common, because what would be the point of all this. You will also have a heck of a time finding a dyno where a car is making 400-500ft/tq at 3500rpm. There are many variables at play, that is all I am saying. Experienced VQ tuner know the limits of these engines, and will "ease in to it" from 3500-4000rpm, in order to reduce the sudden torque surge with a turbo system.

Yes, the supercharger system will create less strain on the engine, but it all really boils down to the tune.

Also, at no point did I say that you are an idiot. I was just saying that you had a few things mixed up due to lack of experience, that is all.

The other thing to conside is (to save a few $$$$) is to build the car how you want it now. If you start changing the fuel system or EMS, you will require a tune, and last time I checked Cam@LS in Red Deer will charge you $800+ for this. So do it properly now, and don't worry about it later.

 

Ya srry, I was referring to one of your dyno's but obviously my memory was horible
http://i137.photobucket.com/albums/q...D/IMG_4803.jpg

Comparing it with a SC dyno, it really doesn't look like it's putting a wildly higher amount of stress on the block, my bad:
http://www.rtec.ch/webshop/images/350z_dyno.jpg

I'm not trying to mix and match the whole kit, just bump it up to the 3.12: pulley safely. I thought that required addition of a Walbro In Tank. I thought that this could replace the in inline pump... and then got my head bitten off.

 

I have tuned a stock block DE with walbro in tank and 440cc injectors with no return system and had no problems on a 3.12 pulley. I hate the vortech pressure rising system so I will not install them with the vortech anymore if someone asks me to do their install.

With the 3.12 and 440 injectors the stock fuel pressure from an intank walbro 255 will be plenty of fuel. If you upgrade to a 2.87 you will need a return system to increase fuel pressure or larger injectors (600cc). I've tuned the 2.87 to 600cc injectors with an intank walbro with no rising rate return system with no problems as well.

 

^ This. The Idea with the inline Walbro and FMU setup in the full kit is a real cheater-type setup.

They basically bump up the fuel pressure so your stock injectors can flow higher than the normal amount. I'm with binder, i dont' like it. The stock Z system is already higher pressure than most (3.5 bar opposed to the more-average 3.0 bar). But it seems to work, dunno.

 

Cool, so install 440CC injectors with the InTank pump, and I can get rid of all the InLine crap, and just manage the Fuel map using the SSB right?

I've ordered some 440cc DW injectors, and a Motordyne Plenum Spacer.

My install plan right now is to:
* Have my local mechanic install the SC w/ stock pulley, + Walbro InTank

Bring it to tuner shop with dyno:
* Have them install new injectors + plenum spacer + 3.12" pulley
* Remove inline fuel pump + FMU
* Tune w/ SSB

Make sense? It seems wasteful to install the mechanical FMU and inline pump at all, but I'm not sure how else to get it from point A to point B safely, the best tuner in the Area is about 2hrs away.

The nice thing about this approach is I should get some pretty sweet before and after dyno's...