rcdash v2.0
08-22-2012, 02:09 PM
#21
Yep, got some more - will upload to photobucket tonight... Here is one of the exhaust with cut outs:
Yes, for the sake of time and proven fitment we decided on the SFR headers but it would have been nice to have easier access to the WG springs! I'm not sure there is enough room (that is a really tight spot), but it's a great thought and I wish we had considered the possibility.
I would still prefer what Dynosty did with the kit. Now that they have the Tial stainless housings available for the GTX urbos, it makes servicing very easy. The only thing I would do is move the wastegates downstream, perhaps at the elbow (just before the turbine inlet) so that they are easy to get at/service. Other than that it really is the perfect TT setup.
Last edited by rcdash; 08-22-2012 at 02:16 PM.
08-22-2012, 02:37 PM
#23
Yes, for the sake of time and proven fitment we decided on the SFR headers but it would have been nice to have easier access to the WG springs! I'm not sure there is enough room (that is a really tight spot), but it's a great thought and I wish we had considered the possibility.
08-22-2012, 07:21 PM
#24
New Member
iTrader: (8)
Join Date: Jan 2007
Location: terre haute, IN; STL, MO
Posts: 6,457
Likes: 0
Received 7 Likes
on
6 Posts
Raj, do you have pics of that front end? I've been pondering making the switch to an open front for more cooling but I like my stock look and I'm 2" lower than stock so I'm concerned about scraping.
08-23-2012, 04:52 AM
#25
Ok, here's some more pics....
Cold side piping
Oil pump on frame rail (the little white thing, no big exa-pump!):
Turbo oil resoivoir (Sasha, look familiar?
):
Engine bay
Bumper (Jeff, I had to raise my Tein Monoflex to max in front to get reasonable clearance for my driveway and lift):
Cold side piping
Oil pump on frame rail (the little white thing, no big exa-pump!):
Turbo oil resoivoir (Sasha, look familiar?
): Engine bay
Bumper (Jeff, I had to raise my Tein Monoflex to max in front to get reasonable clearance for my driveway and lift):
Last edited by rcdash; 08-23-2012 at 04:54 AM.
08-23-2012, 05:40 AM
#26
Raj, both the FMIC and oil reservoirs look very familiar. I am sure that the guys at Dynosty put the small check valves I use on the turbo inlet as well. The combo of check valve and reservoir is proven to work very well, and I have sold a few kits to the APS ST guys as well. Always get a "thank you, smoking problem is now gone" PM after they install it.
I would however suggest you get the Exa pump. It is larger, and perhaps a bit louder, but it is built to last a long time. The key is the extra large brushes that will take forever to wear out (10,000 hours). I have sold close to 50 units, and they are all still working like they did day one.
I would however suggest you get the Exa pump. It is larger, and perhaps a bit louder, but it is built to last a long time. The key is the extra large brushes that will take forever to wear out (10,000 hours). I have sold close to 50 units, and they are all still working like they did day one.
08-23-2012, 06:09 AM
#27
I actually had the FMIC installed locally in an attempt to get more out of the 700bb turbos. Dynosty tried to re-use whatever they thought would not be a bottleneck (for which my wallet is most grateful!).
I am not certain that this is what they sourced for the oil pumps, but I had been investigating alternatives to the exa-pump and came across some proven alternatives out there: http://www.rbracing-rsr.com/oilsystems.htm
Suffice to say, they felt the pump they sourced was just as durable, just more compact, and for a slightly lower price I believe. If it ever starts smoking, I will let you know! If there is any concern when the car goes back to Dynosty, we'll swap it out for the Turbowerx pump. With the smaller gears, clogging debris might be a concern, but I have a turbo oil filter on the feed (from Forced Performance) and a pressure gauge after the filter, so I can monitor turbo oil feed pressure if it drops low (from a clogged filter) or high (from a failed return pump). Heat would be the other concern, but I think the mounting location will be decent at keeping it relatively cool, in the path of airflow.
I am not certain that this is what they sourced for the oil pumps, but I had been investigating alternatives to the exa-pump and came across some proven alternatives out there: http://www.rbracing-rsr.com/oilsystems.htm
Suffice to say, they felt the pump they sourced was just as durable, just more compact, and for a slightly lower price I believe. If it ever starts smoking, I will let you know! If there is any concern when the car goes back to Dynosty, we'll swap it out for the Turbowerx pump. With the smaller gears, clogging debris might be a concern, but I have a turbo oil filter on the feed (from Forced Performance) and a pressure gauge after the filter, so I can monitor turbo oil feed pressure if it drops low (from a clogged filter) or high (from a failed return pump). Heat would be the other concern, but I think the mounting location will be decent at keeping it relatively cool, in the path of airflow.
Last edited by rcdash; 08-23-2012 at 06:55 AM.
08-23-2012, 06:57 AM
#28
On to another part of the install, so who knows what this is?:
Hal got it to work pretty well. No pics of it installed, but it also needs to get good airflow. The placement of the scavenge pump got me thinking about this.
Hal got it to work pretty well. No pics of it installed, but it also needs to get good airflow. The placement of the scavenge pump got me thinking about this.
Last edited by rcdash; 08-23-2012 at 06:59 AM.
08-23-2012, 12:47 PM
#29
New Member
iTrader: (8)
Join Date: Jan 2007
Location: terre haute, IN; STL, MO
Posts: 6,457
Likes: 0
Received 7 Likes
on
6 Posts
Looks like a rectifier to change a/c current into DC but since I can't think of a reason to use that in this situation I don't think that is the answer.
What front bumper is that raj?
What front bumper is that raj?
08-23-2012, 01:57 PM
#31
That is the Kuruma Z and I recommend you only get it from ConceptZ (the sell the original poly I believe, not a replica - trust me, I tried a replica first).
That aluminum thing is one big 0.28 ohm resistor from an Acura RL. Drops the Walbro 485 fuel pump voltage down to 10.6v. When the car hits 4 psi, voltage is driven via a KB BAP to 16.5v. The set up has worked well so far. Hopefully it prolongs the life of the pump - we shall see how much power it makes when I get a (slower) 6MT in there...
That aluminum thing is one big 0.28 ohm resistor from an Acura RL. Drops the Walbro 485 fuel pump voltage down to 10.6v. When the car hits 4 psi, voltage is driven via a KB BAP to 16.5v. The set up has worked well so far. Hopefully it prolongs the life of the pump - we shall see how much power it makes when I get a (slower) 6MT in there...
Last edited by rcdash; 08-23-2012 at 01:59 PM.
08-24-2012, 12:03 PM
#33
I haven't taken the front bumper off to look, but following the wiring it appears to be mounted on the aluminum bumper brace below the passenger side headlight (in the path of airflow I presume but it's hard to see in there). Yes, it gets quite hot without airflow or a big heatsink - now it has both. The passenger side filter is easily visible in the passenger side bumper opening.
Last edited by rcdash; 08-24-2012 at 12:08 PM.
08-24-2012, 12:11 PM
#34
New Member
iTrader: (8)
Join Date: Jan 2007
Location: terre haute, IN; STL, MO
Posts: 6,457
Likes: 0
Received 7 Likes
on
6 Posts
I thought about staging my dual 255's but at idle I don't have any issues with too much fuel so I'm going to leave it alone for simplicity. It would be nice to keep the fuel cooler but if for some reason the second pump doesn't kick on during boost the engine would grenade. I don't trust that. 
08-25-2012, 06:44 AM
#37
Because we have the worst shops/tuners that can't smooth the idle for anything +1000cc injectors or build an engine that will last a year
Evo guys are running +2000cc injectors and the idle is like stock.
OP, glad to see your car still running strong and looks nice.
08-25-2012, 01:26 PM
#40
New Member
iTrader: (8)
Join Date: Jan 2007
Location: terre haute, IN; STL, MO
Posts: 6,457
Likes: 0
Received 7 Likes
on
6 Posts
I don't think it should be too hard to program an internal safety that alters the boost.I tuned my 1000cc injectors on my cjm twin pump to idle 14.7 perfectly on pump gas an e85. Wasn't too hard either with the haltech.