Installed Boosted Performance turbo with haltech harness. Installed the basemap from Dynosty and turned on car. It starts but idles rough and appears to be running rich as grey smoke comes out of the exhaust and garage smells like gas. I checked the engine code and it is giving a P0103 (MAF) code. Any suggestions? Thanks in advance, Alberto

 

Sounds like a faulty maf. Also make sure its connected properly and no damaged wiring.

 

Are they low impedance or high? What size?

 

Are you able to see what the a/f ratios are? Also, make sure the MAF sensor is in the righ way.

 

And plugged in. I've forgotten to plug it in a few times.

If you run a map based map then the maf wouldn't be controlling fuel.

I'm pretty sure the stock map for haltech would be for stock engine setups only which means you will run VERY rich with upgraded injectors.

 

O2 sensors were off so I turned them on and runs smooth but still have the smoke issue with strong fuel smell that becomes unbearable. Clothes smell of smoke after this. I trouble shot these issues with Sasha and he says the intial readings look ok but can not explain the smoke. I sent messages to Hal at dynosty in regards to these issues after the basemap was installed and I am supposed to trouble shoot things tomorrow with him. MAF code is still showing up and the MAF sensor was installed correctly and plugged in but with the Haltech the MAP takes over for the MAF. Injectors are 650cc. I need to move the car into my car hauler, and then to the exhaust shop, to have a Y pipe made to connect the turbo to my HKS high flow exhaust, but I do not want to damage anything with having it turned on and putting a load on the engine. I have an appointment with Dynosty for tuning this month. I'm all ears for suggestions and help. Thanks

 

gray/bluish smoke is oil. gas smoke would be black.

 

Do you have any catalytic converters in the system? I would assume you don't since you still have to hook it up to the rest of the exhaust. Maybe that explains the "unbearable" smell from your exhaust.

I am looking into getting this kit also and have come to the conclusion that I will have to install atleast one turbo-back catalytic converter to tame the smell.

 

If you got rid of the cats, exhaust fumes will have a heavy gas smell. Might want to make sure you don't have leaks around the injectors though.

 

I'm sure sasha went over this but you probably need to re-prime your oil pump. It's common for people to not properly prime it and then oil would back up in the turbo and then be burned.

The map is the wrong map if it's fuel. Larger injectors needs less injector pulsewidth. The reason it probably became better after turning on o2 corrections is that the ecu is now pulling another 20% of fuel.

A stock basemap for haltech is WAY too rich for any upgrade in injectors.

 

I spoke with Hal today from Dynosty and he connected online to my laptop that was conncected to the Haltech. He looked at some things and did not identify anything specific. It still smokes but engine runs smooth. I did prime the scavenger oil pump before the first time turned on as instructed by Sasha and checked for suction by loosening the line coming into the turbo oil reservoir and could hear air going in so it appeared to be functioning properly. I do not have cats after the turbo and it is not connected to the rear exhaust yet. Sasha and Hal both recommended to install a wideband to see a/f ratio in order to see if the engine is running rich so I have ordered the haltech wideband and plan on installing this when I have the y pipe made. I guess then we will know the a/f ratio. Sasha and Hal both seemed a bit confused over the smoke issue and the persistant MAF code being thrown. The only other thing i did, with my best educated guess, is that I t'ed into the hose coming off of the left side of the intake manifold for the source for the hose to the haltech MAP. I wanted to leave a dedicated vacuum to the BOV, so I used the nipple coming off of the front of the intake manifold for the BOV. Any other suggestions or trouble shooting I should do? Thanks for everyone's support

 

It is more important to have a dedicated vac source to your ecu reference than the BOV. BOV is just a mechanical thing and the ecu controls all the small fuel changes based on MAP so if your readings are off due to inaccurate vac source it can affect it.

I'm not sure I would ever say "everything looks fine" without having dual widebands. No way of knowing it is rich without any widebands. The ipw might look ok but every car is different.

Also, if the car flooded itself or any oil was pushed into the exhaust system it will take quite some time to burn all of that out of the exhaust. When my oil pump stopped due to some issues and I flooded my turbo with oil it took almost a month of driving for all the oil to finally burn off out of the exhaust.

 

as a followup, i'd pull the exhaust off the turbo and make sure there's no oil in there

 

I have been thinking about this one, and to be honest I am a bit stumped. The only thing that would cause smoking is oil in the exhaust.

The pump will create suction without priming, but it still needs to be primed. Some fres oil needs to be in the pump housing to coate the gears to maximize suction. There is a big difference between primed pump suction and non primed.

Other than that, I really can't think of anything other than a very rich condition, as it is impossible to tell without a wideband.

 

ya, mine took quite a bit of oil through it and priming it twice before it worked. When I replaced it (under warranty) I soaked it in oil and got it running full of oil before installing it then I did the priming procedure yet again just to make sure. The second pump I had no issues doing the excessive priming. lol

 

I am looking at including a small syringe with the kit to get rid of any priming issues. Something like this:

http://shop.bme.com/mcp_core_res/sta...yringe-544.jpg

Just get the power to the pump, fill this up with fresh oil, and stick it in to the inlet fitting. This is whay I used on the last install and it worked great. No mess, no problmes.

 

I actually used a large syringe to push oil into the pump prior to ever running the car, so the pump must be good. I also checked for suction and there was suction. I just receive the wideband and plan on installing this tomorrow but where should the haltech wideband box with the LED's and adjustment screws go? In the cabin and extend the sensor cable or under the car and extend the lines to the haltech? I can't wait to install this to finally trouble shoot the A/F ration correctly. I still think its just running rich, I hope!

 

Mine is in the middle console area by the radio. I ran the o2 wires down the shifter hole and to the widebands that way. Worked well. You need to modify the metal ring that holds the rubber boot down on the shifter so it doesn't damage the wires though.

 

Guys I have a quick question for you. There's a medium size hose that mounts on the old intake piping right before the throttle body. Do I need to cap this off when I install the kit?

 

Sasha told me to put a breather filter on that hose. I got a filter at oreileys