what was the torque number? how many psi?

 

didn't bother with the Tru-Boost gauge because im wastegate controlled boost it only came with a 5lb spring so at the moment thats all i can run but im about to get an 8lb spring and switch it over and have him check over the tune again
if you look on the graph the low line is the boost level its about 4.5lbs of boost spiking 5lbs

his printer was messed up and couldn't print me a graph
but based on my gauge im running solid A/F 11.3-12.0's through a pull

i cant remember the torque number but when i go back with my 8lb spring ill have a graph printed with everything i know it was within like 10-15 of my HP tho

and i'm only pushing 5lbs atm

 

The Tru Boost is also an Electronic Boost Controller that would have helped you with how the power would be delivered. You could even set it to protect you from over boost and avoid boost spikes. Makes tuning easier as well since you don't have to waste time changing springs on wastegate and allows for fine tuning.

In my case, the EBC I have made a huge difference on how quickly and smoothly the power is delivered. I was spring only but ounce I changed to EBC it was one of the best additions I made to my setup.

You should have them email you the Dyno Sheet because it's hard to really tell A/F ratio on the fly while driving unless you have data logging capability.

 

yeah see i replied before actually realizing what i was talking about and or how things worked haha
i had it backwards in my head meaning the lb of the spring was the max you could push not the minimum lol...

but yeah i had a nice solid tune on 5lbs and then today i bought a manual boost controller
so i start turning the **** but everytime i would read less boost but felt more power ? i couldnt tell tho because i was going by the gauge, i now think i put the gauge on the wrong side of the boost controller and over boosted

(going by the gauge )

turn 1 - 5 lbs felt the same
turn 2 - 5/6 lbs
turn 3 4/5 lbs felt way faster
turn 4 4/5 lbs felt faster again
turn 5 2/3 lbs motor fuel cut / shut off at wot and then wouldnt start
after about 15 min started back up and has this awful tick tick tick tick
im thinking maybe a rod knock ?

Sounds Exactly like this

 

UGH..... Yup, that is definately a rod knock if yours sounds like that... I know that sound all to well and am currently getting a new built long block.

Don't run that engine anymore or you may grenade it... And start looking at pricing out built blocks.

 

**** :/

 

Too bad. Sounds like you barely got a chance to enjoy it.
So, I guess this is partially what post number 3 in Forced Induction For Noobs is taking about when it says do NOT buy a boost controller if you are new to FI.

 

now you should get a pic of your girl flipping off your engine.

 

yeah thats pretty much what im doing sucks because i just spent like all my money on go fast parts




literally like 4 days i had it and 80% of the time was errands or to and from work

didnt even get to race anyone !

but like i was so against getting a controller for this same reason but like i had my goal and new my limits i just had no way of knowing i reached them and was exceeding cuz my gauge was reading after the controlleR
cant believe i did that lol dummy me







lolz more like flipping me off shes so mad more mad than me lol?
saying how i told you not to do this yadda yadda
it sucks but nothing i can do about it so im not gonna **** myself off ya know ? now i can build better and stronger




I KNOW !

 

Don't blame the boost control... blame the incorrect install and misinformed user.

When installed and setup properly... a EBC can actually save you from spikes and over boost.

 

oh haha dont get me wrong im not blaming anything but myself
im the one who put the gauge on the wrong side of the controller its totally my fault lol


and it was a manual controller not electronic so it was just a little silver ****
turn up more down for less i just had didnt know what or how high i was actually turning it because the gauge kept reading 4-5 lbs and then started reading less instead of more and by the time i noticed it was too late

 

That sucks. Please take some comfort in that your error will help others learn to not make the same mistake.

 

~Update~
so i began listening to my car once again yesterday and call me crazy but my ticking sounds like it COULD be coming from the TOP ? kinda by my injectors or intake manifold area ? and my a/f is all over the place
any ideas ?

Yeah sucks so now im faced with a crossroad in my life... probually gonna go with option 1 but others are in the air

not sure on pricing or where to begin what all id need and ive searched for a few nights but i guess i didnt look hard enough
found a few built blocks for sell but im sure that not as easy as just swapping over

anyone care to help or put in their .02 ? seeking all help / opinions i can get


1. buy another stock vq swap it in and then build this one slowly
2. buy a daily and build this one
3. buy a built motor and swap it in
4. start tearing this one down and see if i cant figure it out first ? starting with the top

 

sounds like you need a real mechanic to actually determine what is wrong. injectors make a loud ticking noise.

 

If it sounds like that video it is a rod knock... Mine also sounded like it was coming from near the top somewhere but that's just the sound playing tricks on your ears. Mine sounded just like that video as well... Not a fun sound at all.

I choose option 3

Why put another stock VQ in w/ option 1 and build it 'slowly' ... Hell once you start to build it the engine will be out and it would be more cost effective to do it all at once at that point. Also if you put another stock VQ into that FI set up you are just asking for a repeat situation of where you are right now.

 

Hey,

Sorry missed this thread...been too busy with work.

Definitely that would be cool. Are you planning to go to IFO in Ennis? I'm one of the team leaders/founders of Strictly G'z here in Houston. I think that will be the next show we'll possibly be attending soon.

I'll definitely check out the facebook. Nice to meet ya!

Ryan

 

yeah lmao i know ive just been busy with work and too scared to drive it anywhere


i agree but i think you misread i was gonna swap a stock vq in and rebuild the one thats out slowly while driving around on the stock one due to money and a quick turn around
but yeah your right the situation might repeat and i dont really wanna spend the money twice


yeah same hah
and oh nice i used to live in the woodlands a few years back love it down there
and if i can get my car runnin by then, then yeah and if not then ill probuially still more than likely ill be there haha but yeah we usually all meet up locally and cruise up together feel free to add me on FB

 

Ahhh Ok I hear ya, if you do go that route then I would take out the turbo until you get the built motor back to handle it... Then hold onto the spare DE once you get the built back and turbo installed for extra insurance.

 

yeah definitely but ive decided and said screw it ill just drive around the truck and do my Z all at once and not rush things

drained out all the Oil this morning watched it drain and then picked through it ... no signs of metal shavings , dropped the pan looked fine ? wierd
replaced with a nice think 20w50 oil and the tick is still the same loudness / consistency and everything about it

i mean i wasnt expecting it to fix it but in theory i thought it might quiet it down a little right ? even if its for a moment


but yeah heres an actual video of my car before and after so you can actually hear the noise

 

Rod Knock is a horrifying and loud sound. Sounds like a Z I heard who's belt was partially torn actually. But the AFR thing is not good. I'll take another listen when my friends aren't making squawking noises. Could be piston slap... or maybe you detonated.

Pull the plugs, read them. Do a compression test.
http://www.angelfire.com/fl4/pontiac...Readplugs.html