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#1 - My buddy Tom said go with Haltech ... tried & true and I'm already in the family. He thinks that Haltech is releasing an Elite 2500 for the z33 relatively soon (but I dont think I can wait) but that's probably why they dropped the price of the Pro Standalone (it's nice to know the Z33 is still relevant). One thing I dont like about the haltech is that you gotta purchase the expansion CAN devices ... so I'm looking at another $3-$4 for additional equipment.
#2 - gosh darn - I really like High Performance Academy ... I shot Andre a quick email asking what he thinks between the two and he said he likes the Link over the haltech. Mentions both are very capable/more than adequate but the link will have more flexibility and is a little easier to tune.
I cant pull the trigger on anything until tomorrow night ... I need a few hundo from my payroll to supplement the cost. I did get an email back from PSI in Oregon and everything is in stock / ready to go...
furthermore - I registered for another 1/2mile runway event... it's actually 1/2mile, 1/4mile, and 1/8mile ... October 6th & 7th because my car doesnt meet their criteria for a 'street car' I have to run in the 'unlimited class' ... this ought to be fun!
I downloaded the G4+ Software last night just to take a peak at it looks like and OMG there is so many options and things to look at! It looks way over my head but your a very well versed guy on things like that.
Best of luck with your decision just make sure you don't get buyers remorse and regret your decision.
I downloaded the G4+ Software last night just to take a peak at it looks like and OMG there is so many options and things to look at! It looks way over my head but your a very well versed guy on things like that.
Best of luck with your decision just make sure you don't get buyers remorse and regret your decision.
That's a really good idea ... Yea - watching the HPA webinars there are menus inside of menus...I really like how Haltech is laid out and it just makes sense to me. I feel that there would be a learning curve on how to navigate.
Originally Posted by dnash
They sell premolded lexan windows in various thicknesses...UK based though and ain’t too cheap.
yea - I've seen them before. Do their products have the OEM arch or are they flat?
yea - I've seen them before. Do their products have the OEM arch or are they flat?
Yea, pricy for sure!
Preformed windows are heat formed to the exact same curvature as the standard glass providing a better aerodynamic fit and less stress on the Polycarbonate than trying to bolt a flat sheet into a curved aperture.
#1 - My buddy Tom said go with Haltech ... tried & true and I'm already in the family. He thinks that Haltech is releasing an Elite 2500 for the z33 relatively soon (but I dont think I can wait) but that's probably why they dropped the price of the Pro Standalone (it's nice to know the Z33 is still relevant). One thing I dont like about the haltech is that you gotta purchase the expansion CAN devices ... so I'm looking at another $3-$4 for additional equipment.
#2 - gosh darn - I really like High Performance Academy ... I shot Andre a quick email asking what he thinks between the two and he said he likes the Link over the haltech. Mentions both are very capable/more than adequate but the link will have more flexibility and is a little easier to tune.
I cant pull the trigger on anything until tomorrow night ... I need a few hundo from my payroll to supplement the cost. I did get an email back from PSI in Oregon and everything is in stock / ready to go...
furthermore - I registered for another 1/2mile runway event... it's actually 1/2mile, 1/4mile, and 1/8mile ... October 6th & 7th because my car doesnt meet their criteria for a 'street car' I have to run in the 'unlimited class' ... this ought to be fun!
if we can wire in lsu4.9 widebands in place of our stock widebands then I believe the linkg4 is the way to go.
. Do u still have your honing torque plate?
if we can wire in lsu4.9 widebands in place of our stock widebands then I believe the linkg4 is the way to go.
. Do u still have your honing torque plate?
I think Haltech has a similar setup but I dont know much about the standalone ... both are very capable...
I got my block from IPP back in the day ... I'd talk to a local engine building shop to see if you can rent / borrow one ...
Link g4+ ... bought it from PSI in Oregon with a personal recommendation from a fellow member. PSI will setup my base maps and credit me some remote tuning if I cant find a local tuner here in Denver.
Not that the haltech plug-in is bad or anything but I can really see value in having the g4+ fully customizable. The Haltech has similar features too but I think it meant purchasing their expander. I also put alot of value in what Andre from HPA recommended and it seems like most their webinars on their z33 are utilizing the link setup and not the haltech.
I should do some compare and contrast between the two setups ...
I downloaded links PC tuning software (as Conway suggested) and it doesnt look too bad ... just gotta stare at it awhile. It'll be here next week or so.
a little update...before I got the haltech off I had a chance to get my OEM alternator back installed, mini-alternator taken off. Needed to fab a custom bracket to fit the OEM under the passenger side intake. Welding a little thing up - it actually came out pretty sheety but it works. It forced me to pick up a oil filter relocation kit which will give me some good options on running a bigger oil filter. But the car consistently runs 14 to 15 volts via the alternator. So I hope this cures the issues Ive been having with my missed ignition events - time will tell
re-gapped the spark plugs to .03" ... inspecting the plugs I thought they looked pretty good
Got everything back in & buckled up.
Obviously the big news is the Link G4+ ... got everything ordered and I gotta figure out how to get a wideband o2 reading to the ECU. It wasnt 'as easy' as I suspected. I thought I could power the widebands via a 12 volt source and send their signal directly to the ECU. Not so fast ... the G4 requires a controller of sorts - just like the haltech. The haltech has a positive and negative power and then two signal wires that go to the ECU.
I believe my two AEM UEGOs act as wideband controllers ... they take the wide band signal and display but they have the ability to send that analog signal to an AEM device. So I believe I can take that signal wire directly to the G4. I'm going to use this method on the short term but the AEMs were sorta my independent AFR check ... so I think once I can purchase a dual channel wideband controller I will.
I spent a 1/2hr on tech support chat with Link about how to hook up the widebands and boost control solenoid ... not as easy as I initially thought but still very obtainable. I've never disassembled a OEM harness to spice in wires to pins. So this will be new.
One of the features I will be looking forward to will be setting up 'rescue maps' where if fuel pressure drops, oil pressure drops, intake temps spike, or coolant pressure spikes the G4+ will cut boost or ignition where it wont damage the engine.
I talked to Jason from PSI for 20minutes or so about a remote tune dyno session, my build, and what I'm looking for. I got a tentative appointment for September 19th. Jason mentioned a coolant pressure sensor ... I never thought of this but monitoring coolant pressure can let you know when you're boosting too much/pressing your ignition advance or when you're lifting your heads because you'll see spikes in your coolant pressure values.
Ive had this aftermarket sensor I got with a nascar tank I bought a little while back in my parts bin. I put 5 volts on it (do you know how hard it is to find 5 volts?? ended up cutting a USB cord and powering it off my laptop) and hooked my air compressor up to it. Around 100psi it gave me a 2 to 2.5 volt reading ... so it'll work perfect. Doesnt need to be accurate, just needs to let me know when it spikes.
When I back-door'd my pathfinder cooling mod, I added a AN -4 line on the rear coolant pipe for bleeding the system. So I swapped out a hose, added a NPT / AN-4 fitting and added the sensor, made a little bracket, and wired it up to a few feet of OEM wire. I gotta find 5 volts on the car and get the signal wire to the ECU.
hmmm...also did an oil change - maybe have 1000miles on this oil but it was a few hard runs at pikes peak airstrip and 3 test & tune days. And seeing that the car is hitting the dyno next fresh oil is wise. I might flush with some inexpensive oil before the formal refill.
Thatv35guy and I have both talked about adding a coolant pressure sensor. With the ProEFI we can set a fault, if the pressure spiked, to cut ignition or boost. I assume the link as the same capabilities.
Do you have a goal in mind for when you get on the dyno? A certain whp or a particular amount of boost?
a little update...before I got the haltech off I had a chance to get my OEM alternator back installed, mini-alternator taken off. Needed to fab a custom bracket to fit the OEM under the passenger side intake. Welding a little thing up - it actually came out pretty sheety but it works. It forced me to pick up a oil filter relocation kit which will give me some good options on running a bigger oil filter. But the car consistently runs 14 to 15 volts via the alternator. So I hope this cures the issues Ive been having with my missed ignition events - time will tell
re-gapped the spark plugs to .03" ... inspecting the plugs I thought they looked pretty good
Mind me asking if you add Boostane or Torco Octane booster to your fuel? I remember my plugs having that orangy/ reddish powder look on mine when I was mixing Boostane with pump 93 before switching to Ethanol.
Good luck with your appointment, hope all goes well!
Last edited by BluestreamDE; Sep 13, 2018 at 03:53 AM.
a little update...before I got the haltech off I had a chance to get my OEM alternator back installed, mini-alternator taken off. Needed to fab a custom bracket to fit the OEM under the passenger side intake. Welding a little thing up - it actually came out pretty sheety but it works. It forced me to pick up a oil filter relocation kit which will give me some good options on running a bigger oil filter. But the car consistently runs 14 to 15 volts via the alternator. So I hope this cures the issues Ive been having with my missed ignition events - time will tell
re-gapped the spark plugs to .03" ... inspecting the plugs I thought they looked pretty good
Got everything back in & buckled up.
Obviously the big news is the Link G4+ ... got everything ordered and I gotta figure out how to get a wideband o2 reading to the ECU. It wasnt 'as easy' as I suspected. I thought I could power the widebands via a 12 volt source and send their signal directly to the ECU. Not so fast ... the G4 requires a controller of sorts - just like the haltech. The haltech has a positive and negative power and then two signal wires that go to the ECU.
I believe my two AEM UEGOs act as wideband controllers ... they take the wide band signal and display but they have the ability to send that analog signal to an AEM device. So I believe I can take that signal wire directly to the G4. I'm going to use this method on the short term but the AEMs were sorta my independent AFR check ... so I think once I can purchase a dual channel wideband controller I will.
I spent a 1/2hr on tech support chat with Link about how to hook up the widebands and boost control solenoid ... not as easy as I initially thought but still very obtainable. I've never disassembled a OEM harness to spice in wires to pins. So this will be new.
One of the features I will be looking forward to will be setting up 'rescue maps' where if fuel pressure drops, oil pressure drops, intake temps spike, or coolant pressure spikes the G4+ will cut boost or ignition where it wont damage the engine.
I talked to Jason from PSI for 20minutes or so about a remote tune dyno session, my build, and what I'm looking for. I got a tentative appointment for September 19th. Jason mentioned a coolant pressure sensor ... I never thought of this but monitoring coolant pressure can let you know when you're boosting too much/pressing your ignition advance or when you're lifting your heads because you'll see spikes in your coolant pressure values.
Ive had this aftermarket sensor I got with a nascar tank I bought a little while back in my parts bin. I put 5 volts on it (do you know how hard it is to find 5 volts?? ended up cutting a USB cord and powering it off my laptop) and hooked my air compressor up to it. Around 100psi it gave me a 2 to 2.5 volt reading ... so it'll work perfect. Doesnt need to be accurate, just needs to let me know when it spikes.
When I back-door'd my pathfinder cooling mod, I added a AN -4 line on the rear coolant pipe for bleeding the system. So I swapped out a hose, added a NPT / AN-4 fitting and added the sensor, made a little bracket, and wired it up to a few feet of OEM wire. I gotta find 5 volts on the car and get the signal wire to the ECU.
hmmm...also did an oil change - maybe have 1000miles on this oil but it was a few hard runs at pikes peak airstrip and 3 test & tune days. And seeing that the car is hitting the dyno next fresh oil is wise. I might flush with some inexpensive oil before the formal refill.
100 PSI is very high to get that sort of output on a 0-5v sensor, that sensor may not have the resolution you need to see the coolant pressure spikes. I would imagine they would be more in the 5 psi above cap pressure range, because the cap would be regulating that. You'd be looking for the momentary spikes before the cap opens, I'm interested to see what you see. Further from the cap and closer to the heads is best. You will have the most time to sense the spikes that way. I think you already did that.
Do you remember like a year ago when you were telling me you wouldn't get deep into the whole idea of having the car alert you/go into protection based on sensor feedback? Well, you are finally switching over to the dark side lol, and I like it. As much as I hate the idea of nerding out with computer controls/ gui programming, it is very rewarding.
Flush with the expensive oil... Additives from multiple oils may not play nice together
Last edited by yosip1115; Sep 13, 2018 at 06:00 AM.
Mind me asking if you add Boostane or Torco Octane booster to your fuel? I remember my plugs having that orangy/ reddish powder look on mine when I was mixing Boostane with pump 93 before switching to Ethanol.
The only thing I can immediate think of is I was running the 104 octane fuel at the track. It may have some shared properties of an octane booster
Originally Posted by BluestreamDE
Good luck with your appointment, hope all goes well!
Thanks! I excited for it - I'll update the thread!
Originally Posted by WTFMike
Thatv35guy and I have both talked about adding a coolant pressure sensor. With the ProEFI we can set a fault, if the pressure spiked, to cut ignition or boost. I assume the link as the same capabilities.
Do you have a goal in mind for when you get on the dyno? A certain whp or a particular amount of boost?
Yeah - the link will take a few general purpose inputs - I would imagine I would retard ignition and remove the duty cycle on the boost control solenoid. It may take more but I'm not sure how to setup the tables. But I'll look into an oil pressure and fuel pressure sensors as well.
Im thinking of running a 15 to 18psi street / daily driver map, tuned on 91oct running 91oct which will be in the mid to high 500hp mark. Plenty for a street application.
Then have him do a 24-27psi map, tuned on 91oct but I would run a 100+ octane fuel when I used that map. If he can make me safe with 91oct than I can confidently run 104. Both 100 and 104 are relatively available here in denver. 24psi to 27psi is a compressor ratio ~2:1 for the 18g blowers which falls in the middle to right end of the center-most efficiency island and that'll put me in the low to mid 700hp range which is about 100 less hp than what my block is rated for. So it's a good place to be. And I need to brace myself for new axles, a DSS drive shaft, clutch replacement, etc as pushing this much power will find weak-points. I think I'm also fab-up a stupid-simple drive shaft protection rings -
Originally Posted by yosip1115
100 PSI is very high to get that sort of output on a 0-5v sensor, that sensor may not have the resolution you need to see the coolant pressure spikes. I would imagine they would be more in the 5 psi above cap pressure range, because the cap would be regulating that. You'd be looking for the momentary spikes before the cap opens, I'm interested to see what you see. Further from the cap and closer to the heads is best. You will have the most time to sense the spikes that way. I think you already did that.
Do you remember like a year ago when you were telling me you wouldn't get deep into the whole idea of having the car alert you/go into protection based on sensor feedback? Well, you are finally switching over to the dark side lol, and I like it. As much as I hate the idea of nerding out with computer controls/ gui programming, it is very rewarding.
Flush with the expensive oil... Additives from multiple oils may not play nice together
I'm half confused about the 100 - 150psi being too high? where am I going wrong thinking that if that sensor picks up anything higher than 25 to 30psi it'll alert me? If I set my table up to cut ignition/boost at a voltage of 1.5volts to 2volts (equivilent to ~30psi) and if it were to spike higher, like 4volts (100-125psi) then I know I have a problem...are you saying I should get like a 50psi max sensor? (Interested to hear your response/reasoning!) Yeah, my port is located off the rear coolant pipe.
My memory sucks ... I dont immediately recall having that conversation but Im not calling you a liar either!!!! I also said I'd always run a haltech! and that the piggyback would be the last ECU I bought and/or I'd never go standalone. I also told my buddies I thought 1/4mile drag racing is for hicks and hillbillies!! Now I cant get enough of that ****!
I really like the programing aspect of the car ... TCode has me learning C++ so I can program Arduino and write code for the car. I took Java in college and it kicked my ***!!!!
I'm not running any crazy oils ... like valvoline synthetic but you do make a really good point
Oil and fuel pressure sensors are great to have. My EMS has saved my motor countless times with safety features. I'd never consider running with out a fuel pressure sensor. 27psi is a lot of boost. I can't wait to see what you'll do on the dyno.
Oil and fuel pressure sensors are great to have. My EMS has saved my motor countless times with safety features. I'd never consider running with out a fuel pressure sensor. 27psi is a lot of boost. I can't wait to see what you'll do on the dyno.
I was just thinking about this - I have a autometer sensor & gauge fuel pressure hooked up already...I can pipe that signal to the Link with a minimal amount of effort. Furthermore, the OEM oil pressure sensor is a 0-5v output, I believe? Why dont I do that at the same time? It may not be pretty and I can re-vamp it down the road but at least I have the wiring in-place??
it is alot of boost ... maybe I should bring that down to 21 to 24psi? Talking to my tuner I told him I wasnt dead-set on anything and that he should use his discretion.
Can I ask a dumb question - I gotta run these sensors off a 'switched' power supply ... this essentially mean that it's only powered up when the key is in the 'on' position, right?? I think I may run the power from the OEM oil pressure sensor. but I do need a 12volt going to the boost control solenoid still...
I vote run 27psi, if you and your tuner are comfortable with how the car is running. I just turned mine up to 27psi too. I'm already thinking 30psi when I rent some dyno time.
Yes, switched power means it comes on with the key in the 'on' position. With ProEFI all the sensor are power, ground, and 0-5v signal. I'd imagine that Link does it the same way. ProEFI says to only use their sensors. They say it's because they know exactly how they're calibrated to read from 0-5v. However, I'm sure other sensors would work too.
