greddy twin build...
09-27-2018, 01:18 PM
#643
This works for me and has enough capacity to supply all of your sensors that require 5v. Or you can use the feed from your ECU designed for 5V supply. It's just convenient sometimes not to have to lengthen wire from inside the compartment though. I never thought about the 5V lines from the stock ECU... irrelevant for me since I don't have stock ECU any longer.
Last edited by rcdash; 09-27-2018 at 01:20 PM.
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bealljk (09-27-2018)
09-27-2018, 02:04 PM
#644
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RC - what ECU are you running?
in the pantheon of 'whats gonna break' I'd rather not introduce another device that could go out. I may grab 5volts from the ECU as there are 5 or 6 supplied 5-volt pins.
in the pantheon of 'whats gonna break' I'd rather not introduce another device that could go out. I may grab 5volts from the ECU as there are 5 or 6 supplied 5-volt pins.
09-27-2018, 05:31 PM
#645
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Two questions though, what rear tires are you running? and how much power are you making?
Depending on your answers I'd highly recommend you sort out your boost by gear/speed (mph) before using traction control. It works incredibly well and is less intrusive than traction control. If a car has a decent tire on it (555R drag radial, etc.) I'll usually have full boost ramp up by the top of first gear/bottom of second gear. I typically want the car to be able to rev steadily through first gear completely with a bit of wheel spin.
Depending on your answers I'd highly recommend you sort out your boost by gear/speed (mph) before using traction control. It works incredibly well and is less intrusive than traction control. If a car has a decent tire on it (555R drag radial, etc.) I'll usually have full boost ramp up by the top of first gear/bottom of second gear. I typically want the car to be able to rev steadily through first gear completely with a bit of wheel spin.
To answer your questions - Ive got two sets of tires ... the enkei RPF1s 18x10.5 w/ toyo R888r (track tires) or the advan RS 18x9 w/toyo proxes 4+ (street). Power is in the 500-600 for the time being.
I'll look into the boost by gear too ...
That table makes sense ... I have a few options:
2D table that only allows TC slip allowed (until ign/fuel cut activates) by gear
3D table where I can choose my axis' ... further more, I have the option to add a second slip threshold table that I believe is activated by a switch.
It scares the **** out of me to drive with no TC ... especially considering my rear-axle doesnt have as much weight on it and that I have a healthy amount of power - dont need to be a new dodge viper owner...
I did get the car out today and the fuel pump worked well ... fuel pressure stayed steady and increased with boost. Problem solved.
Also going to use the ECU to supply the 5volts - tuner said it was fine.
Last edited by bealljk; 09-27-2018 at 05:43 PM.
09-28-2018, 08:05 AM
#647
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fun fact for anyone reading this doing something similar - grounding analog sensors to the chassis is frowned upon and they should be gounded to a ECU ground pin instead. I will be using Pin 82 for anyone playing at home.
A little error on my part - my oil pressure signal was going to come in on a cruise control input but this would be problematic as that is a pull-up connection - so I relocated it per Links recommendation.
Last edited by bealljk; 09-29-2018 at 02:33 PM.
09-28-2018, 10:41 AM
#648
One thing you may want to consider is using a 2d map to adjust ignition timing (retard) before cutting it or fuel for TC. I use the boost by gear to get it close (just consistently slipping) then the wheel speed diff by gear to turn down boost and timing on my Haltech. Works very well, and doesn't ever feel like its over interfering.
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bealljk (09-28-2018)
09-28-2018, 12:51 PM
#649
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Yea - boost by gear is essential ... it's almost inherent in-that I don't start hitting boost until 3000-3500rpm and by that time I have a good amount of ground-speed/wheel speed under me.
the downside with the Link 2d table is that it's locked to "%% slip allowed before TC is enacted by gear". I found a sample map on the Link sponsored forum that has a simple example that I'm going to use for the time being.
1st - 12% slip
2nd - 10% slip
3rd - 8% slip
4th through 6th - 5% slip
the downside with the Link 2d table is that it's locked to "%% slip allowed before TC is enacted by gear". I found a sample map on the Link sponsored forum that has a simple example that I'm going to use for the time being.
1st - 12% slip
2nd - 10% slip
3rd - 8% slip
4th through 6th - 5% slip
10-02-2018, 05:19 PM
#650
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well sht fellas ... out tonight to get some datalogs and I think I fcked something out...sorta what WTFMike was seeing ... low oil pressure and bad sounds coming from the det-cans. Was able to limp home was maybe able to get 30psi of oil pressure at cruise. A few arrows pointing to my oil filter relocation kit mix up?? Not 100% sure. No oil dripping from the car, no smoke, nothing looks apparently wrong but it sounds like hell.
was not looking forward to this...horrible feeling in my stomach
Also the belt came off my alternator so I essentially drained the battery getting home. Gonna try to start it and roll a video
It might be time for the winter shutdown!
was not looking forward to this...horrible feeling in my stomach
Also the belt came off my alternator so I essentially drained the battery getting home. Gonna try to start it and roll a video
It might be time for the winter shutdown!
Last edited by bealljk; 10-02-2018 at 05:32 PM.
10-02-2018, 05:28 PM
#651
Time to cut open a filter that's no bueno. I've been pretty lucky this season racing almost every weekend and my motor is pretty solid. It fills the catch can in 10-12 pulls on 24psi so it's probably time to refresh the short block but I couldn't be happier with how it's performed this year. I have it turned way up and it just keeps on eating.
10-02-2018, 05:48 PM
#652
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^ For sure ... I'll get into it - I'll do compression pretty quick here and then look at the oil, oil filter, and get in to the heads.
From 10k feet (obviously sucks) but I got a a killer exam next april that I should be studying for and I should be messing with the car as little as possible.
Im going to speculate and say this was an oiling issue. I really think something got twisted the few days before my dyno. The car didnt sound right driving home that day. I'm going to speculate and say broken / bent valve based on how the exhaust note has been off.
And you know what ... maybe it's time to part ways with the greddy setup and look into a large single?? Maybe go crazy lightweight and find an L30 chassis and swap into?? Maybe this is the best thing to ever happen to me!!!
From 10k feet (obviously sucks) but I got a a killer exam next april that I should be studying for and I should be messing with the car as little as possible.
Im going to speculate and say this was an oiling issue. I really think something got twisted the few days before my dyno. The car didnt sound right driving home that day. I'm going to speculate and say broken / bent valve based on how the exhaust note has been off.
And you know what ... maybe it's time to part ways with the greddy setup and look into a large single?? Maybe go crazy lightweight and find an L30 chassis and swap into?? Maybe this is the best thing to ever happen to me!!!
Last edited by bealljk; 10-02-2018 at 06:11 PM.
10-02-2018, 06:20 PM
#653
If your having an oil psi issue it's most likely a bearing issue unfortunately man. I highly doubt it bent a valve and kept on running. Usually when that happens they break and drop and destroy all kinds of sh#t then won't run at all. If the car hasn't sounded right in a while I would guess it had a misfire of some sort. Could be an injector not firing correctly or low compression in a cylinder that's slightly firing. Just my $.02 man. Usually spun bearings are a symptom of high cylinder pressures.
10-02-2018, 07:08 PM
#654
Damn, that sucks man. I agree with TT03Z, if you have low oil pressure it's likely a bearing issue. On my car I think I was getting main cap walk. But I'll know more when I get my motor out next week. There could be any number of things that caused bearing damage. How many miles are on your motor? Believe me, I feel your pain. Hopefully you'll be able to get it sorted asap.
10-02-2018, 07:36 PM
#655
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would a spun bearing give the exhaust a different cadence & note? I distinctly remember it having a different tone these last few driving session.
I'm gonna try to get it started and get video, get compression, then drop the oil, drop the coolant, and go from there...a lot to take in and alot of options to consider. Aside from these diagnostic tests I'm not gonna do anything for a week or so...
Part of me wants to part-out the twin setup and go single ...
Got enough charge in the battery to get the car started - videos attached (not sure why theyre not inserted into the thread):
I'm gonna try to get it started and get video, get compression, then drop the oil, drop the coolant, and go from there...a lot to take in and alot of options to consider. Aside from these diagnostic tests I'm not gonna do anything for a week or so...
Part of me wants to part-out the twin setup and go single ...
Got enough charge in the battery to get the car started - videos attached (not sure why theyre not inserted into the thread):
Last edited by bealljk; 10-02-2018 at 08:11 PM.
10-02-2018, 08:26 PM
#656
New Member
Damm. Bealljk. I’d pull it apart before it does too much damage. Sounds like a bearings. Time for a refresh and sleeving!! Yes!
Maybe you can pull it all apart and save the pistons, crank and hopefully all of the rods.
All the sudden it started pinging and this happened? Did you get a bad batch of fuel maybe?
Maybe you can pull it all apart and save the pistons, crank and hopefully all of the rods.
All the sudden it started pinging and this happened? Did you get a bad batch of fuel maybe?
10-03-2018, 02:13 AM
#658
Registered User
That sounds similar to when I effed up my stockblock, had the same squeaking noise with the knocking. I'm really sorry as well for you, man. I have been there, feels like S%$#. Only way to know for sure though is to crack the block open and see whats really wrong.
10-06-2018, 05:46 PM
#660
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Damm. Bealljk. I’d pull it apart before it does too much damage. Sounds like a bearings. Time for a refresh and sleeving!! Yes!
Maybe you can pull it all apart and save the pistons, crank and hopefully all of the rods. All the sudden it started pinging and this happened? Did you get a bad batch of fuel maybe?
Maybe you can pull it all apart and save the pistons, crank and hopefully all of the rods. All the sudden it started pinging and this happened? Did you get a bad batch of fuel maybe?
The evening I had the car out I was pushing it pretty hard and I think it just let loose.
Moving forward - One of the blocks I picked-up has a clean crank/block/pistons, has some minor wear in a few of the bearings (which I might replace all-together). For the time being I'm going to get this OEM block rebuilt and get it swapped in the car to keep the car on the road. I'll get the built block disassembled, figured out, repaired/replaced parts, and rebuilt.
The OEM block will be a real-world test-run rebuild to ensure I can do it before I attempt it on the built block. Furthermore, I want to ensure all my kinks are worked out with the Link. I'd rather blow this rescued OEM block bc of some bad settings than the built.
I may swap over to a single turbo...It's very tempting to part-out the greddy twins and start collecting items for a front mount single.
If anyone is interested in the greddy twin setup send them my way...
Last edited by bealljk; 10-07-2018 at 11:26 PM.