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Z1 has continued to prove the kinetix velocity makes power on forced induction over an OEM plenum. The cracking is an issue, yes, but if you reinforce the welds (I did) when going with FI it wont' have problems. It also will shape the curve to redline a bit better from what I've seen and will be less "peaky." There might be instances where peak power is higher, but overall shape and "area under the curve" is almost always better on a velocity vs. OEM.
I'm sure at some point it's splitting hairs, but would fully expect to pick up no additional power switching back to an OEM plenum on my setup.
Z1 has continued to prove the kinetix velocity makes power on forced induction over an OEM plenum. The cracking is an issue, yes, but if you reinforce the welds (I did) when going with FI it wont' have problems. It also will shape the curve to redline a bit better from what I've seen and will be less "peaky." There might be instances where peak power is higher, but overall shape and "area under the curve" is almost always better on a velocity vs. OEM.
I'm sure at some point it's splitting hairs, but would fully expect to pick up no additional power switching back to an OEM plenum on my setup.
I dont doubt you here but can you send me links on where they have shown this?
I look at the kinetix and I see many inefficiencies that would suggest otherwise … I have a little idea in my head to prove / disprove this but I need more time!
I dont doubt you here but can you send me links on where they have shown this?
I look at the kinetix and I see many inefficiencies that would suggest otherwise … I have a little idea in my head to prove / disprove this but I need more time!
Hey man, I'll try and do some digging around. I dug through some older threads on here and did find some showing some additional power, but of course plenty of others where power was lost. Varied across bolt on cars, cammed, and forced induction.
I remember talking to Z1 years ago (had my car since 2011), and they always talked about how they picked up power on boosted cars with it. However, I do need to research into it a bit more.
I would absolutely love to find a billet end capped Cosworth to switch to on mine, but the things were going for $2-3k years ago...can't imagine what somebody would want for one now.
Been having all kinds of issues bleeding my clutch and didnt think much of it but got under the car and just started looking at things and the clutch fork/slave cylinder/pivot ball just wasnt making sense. Called/txt’d a few buddies and a few ideas came up. I didnt touch anything related to clutch fork / throw out bearing / etc.
But sure-as-**** I straight up installed the clutch disk backwards … total face palm smack! Sorta had to laugh at myself for how big of a mistake this was. Within an hour or so I was able to unbolt all the misc stuff and was able to take the transmission off the back of the engine. Backed out the 9bolts in the pressure plate and removed the clutch. I had more energy but called it a night because I ran out of blue loctitte and I’m gonna call around to see if I can get a throw-out bearing locally before everythning goes back in.
Probably wont work on it tonight as it’s game 5 of the stanley cup finals - woot woot!
Last few days just been cleaning up the car, bleeding the coolant system, checking things, checking for leaks, etc but I think she is 100% ready to put some break-in miles. Didnt get the car on the ground tonight but it’ll be the first thing I do next time I’m in the garage.
and also been doing some side work / side welding - doing some intakes for some buddies
picked up a draggy as well to start doing some metrics.
The car starts pretty rough and wants to die right away without with a little fuel. It should be noted that the searching idle from the Haltech days was solved by putting a 3/16” hole in the TB butterfly valve … so I was previously tuned with the Link G4 with the aforementioned hole in the TB valve. The TB on the car is new and doesnt have that valve - it might explain the rough start-ups and uneasy idle.
Made a quick radiator shroud out of alumilite to test to see if this will help my cooling issues with the rear-mount radiator. It was pretty easy all things considered and installing wasnt bad but a mis-aligned hole caused about 15minutes worth of headache.
I took the car out for about a 10mile drive and my temps didnt rise past 210* - ‘please but not satisfied’ as I was hoping they would drop and/or stay lower with the fans running. I really dont want to tear-up this sheet of lexan but I may be looking at something that generates more airflow…
I’m also getting some oil burn-off on hard engine braking deceleration … I think the main culprit is my turbo drain line as it runs sorta goofy and I think the solution will be to put a -12 bulkhead fitting on the driver side of the oil pan and drain there.
as many of you know, I’m nuts about weight and it’s harder and harder to reduce / eliminate weight and one arena I have not dove-into has been wire harnesses. As I look at the interior of the car I have a small amount of wiring that is no longer needed and not applicable to the car.
I set a goal of 20lbs of weight elimination from taking out wiring that is no longer needed … it’ll mostly interior and dash wiring but also engine bay has a bunch that I dont need.
I’ve started and this is a really good lesson on how the car is wired.
I would recommend an oil return that feeds back to the engine at or above the oil level, unfortunately it’s a little difficult to do on the VQ without welding a bung to the upper oil pan, you could also try an oil scavenge pump for the turbo, EXA-pumps are units dedicated for tricky turbo oil returns. I’ll be using one with my trans mount turbo kit. Just something to consider
I was gonna say I bet the oil burning was turbo related, hopefull not your new engine.
Yea - I hope so too! And the exhaust is clear on acceleration … so I am not sure - but I’ll be digging in to it.
Originally Posted by Rinzlark
I would recommend an oil return that feeds back to the engine at or above the oil level, unfortunately it’s a little difficult to do on the VQ without welding a bung to the upper oil pan, you could also try an oil scavenge pump for the turbo, EXA-pumps are units dedicated for tricky turbo oil returns. I’ll be using one with my trans mount turbo kit. Just something to consider
Yea, I have a AN-12 fitting welded to the upper oil pan … my current issue is that I only have ~2inches of drop between the outlet of the turbo and the fitting … foolishly I put it on the passenger side which has my oil filter relocation lines and alternator conflict with so the line is basically level from the turbo to the drain … Meanwhile I have zero obstruction on the driver side … I did buy a -12 bulkhead fitting which I will install as my next option. I’d like to get another 50 to 100miles on this break-in oil before I drain it (in order to install the bulkhead fitting).
I’d rather not add a scavenge pump - I dont like the idea of adding one more complication, one more thing to fail.
I did run into some small power/ground (good lord, I hope it’s power/ground and not CAN) in my dash (combo meter) and triple gauge that I gotta sort. The FSM has great information and a clear layout of how power and grounds interact in the combo meter, triple gauge, and unified box … The car starts up and runs fine so I think its something ‘simple’…
Wiring problem fixed … it was my ‘meter’ fuse and it was being popped by something … I’m not 100% sure but I bet it’s an exposed wire. I’m going to wrap everything in nylon sleeve but for now everything is just out in the open. To trouble shoot this I unplugged everything that I touched in the last few days and systematically plug one harness back in at a time and checked voltage on the fuse and cycled the ignition to see if I could trip the fuse. Got everything plugged in and started the car and everything worked! Crisis averted.
I did take a deep dive into Section DI (driver information) in the FSM and I gotta say that it might just be my favorite section … I definately like EC (engine control) and EM (engine mechanical) but DI is sorta a neat read if you’re into the electronics side of the car and appreciate how things work in the gauge clusters.
A little easter egg of sorts that I started doing a few years back was put my 1/2mi ID stickers on the inside of roof … and maybe one of my smarter moves was putting the J/B fuse layout on the roof … I sorta had to laugh…
Going to order wire loom and single wire (1/16”) heatshrink and get everyting wrapped up and continue the break-in process.
Ran into a little head-scratcher … I have two wires that are not tied off coming off the combination meter(speedometer) - Pin 2 which is an airbag signal wire - I think think is the wire that flips the airbag light on/off. Pin 18 which is an illumination wire. I cannot determine if this wire recieves 12volts or sends 12volts. Well… I put 12volts on it and it blew the fuse - so I’m pretty sure it does not receive 12volts. When I put a volt meter on it it does not send 12volts out. Under both scenarios I clicked the left stick that controls interior lighting / head lights / daytime running lights.
If it’s one clue the circuit does not have continuity in the off postion but one click and two clicks creates about 45ohms of resistence in that circuit. Not sure what this means but luckily the car runs normal without it!
I did find that I’m missing a power input to the Unified Meter coming from the fuse box for the ‘blower’ fuses and althought not 100% conclusive I think it is only HVAC related and I am not going to re-run it.
Got the oil pan off, about a 1” hole and got the bulkhead fitting installed and RTV’d in to place.
Finished up the oil pan - cleaned out the sump and reinstalled the two spacers, oil pickup tube, and the lower oil pan lid.
I’m not wildly optimistic with how the hose is run but it’ll be a good intermediate step. If this doesnt work Im looking to construct a 2”x2” square, about 9” long sump box that’ll attached to the turbo and gravity drain back to the sump.
I usually use Permatex Ultra Black but the parts store didnt have the size (in the cheese whiz can) so I bought this:
not sure how it’ll work long term but it was wayyyyyy quicker to install stuff.
Also got working on the oil feed manifold…I took all my 5/8” hose over to a buddy’s garage to work on his setup so I will have to re-use the hose I had before and I need a better solution to mount the oil filter but I’m making progress. I’ll wrap these lines in fire sleeve before it’s all said and done.
Also going to swith out the OEM oil pressure sensor with a AEM variant which will require re-pining the connector.
Finished up the oil pan - cleaned out the sump and reinstalled the two spacers, oil pickup tube, and the lower oil pan lid.
I’m not wildly optimistic with how the hose is run but it’ll be a good intermediate step. If this doesnt work Im looking to construct a 2”x2” square, about 9” long sump box that’ll attached to the turbo and gravity drain back to the sump.
I usually use Permatex Ultra Black but the parts store didnt have the size (in the cheese whiz can) so I bought this:
not sure how it’ll work long term but it was wayyyyyy quicker to install stuff.
Also got working on the oil feed manifold…I took all my 5/8” hose over to a buddy’s garage to work on his setup so I will have to re-use the hose I had before and I need a better solution to mount the oil filter but I’m making progress. I’ll wrap these lines in fire sleeve before it’s all said and done.
Also going to swith out the OEM oil pressure sensor with a AEM variant which will require re-pining the connector.
I am a huge fan of "The right stuff" I have used it many times on the race motors and have never had a leak. Its especially convenient with how much easier it is than the old school ultra black.
There have been a few times doing motor internals and block seal surfaces and for those I will use Hondabond HT. That stuff is really good and it is thinner than permatex stuff, so it is easier to do a really clean job with in my opinion.
