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Been a crazy week ... tonight was the first night I've had to work on the car. Hats off to a SC G35 buddy for picking up one of my oil coolers ... will take the funds and put them towards the balance of the assembly...I'll get everything to the shop. Once I get everything back I can reassemble the bottom end and I think I can get the heads doneearly march! Mostly excited!
The piece pictured in Post #758 was done wrong ... g'd it! The middle straight is 180 degrees off ... so I spent the evening fixing it and finishing the connection minus one weld (needs touched up).
Anyone that's listening ... a crank dampening pulley - is it more useful the more items you run off a serpentine belt? meaning does it do the most good when youre running a alternator, PS Pump, and AC? versus not as much good if you are only running an alternator? what if you had no accessories off the serpentine belt - does the pulley do anything? The reason I ask a small part of me wants to pick up an underdrive AC pulley delete variant...not sure.
The purpose of the crank pulley "Harmonic balancer" is there to absorb the massive vibrations from the combustion cycle. With out it all the vibrations goes from the crank to the bearings eating them a way, way quicker then attended. NEVER NEVER go with a light weight crank pulley that looses the Harmonic functionality. As far as does it matter if there more or less items on the on the serpentine belt not sure, but it will increase or decrease the parasitic loss. For other items you could do light weight pulleys and help decrease the parasitic loss.
Appreciate it Conway - I think I'm gonna simply keep the dampener until further notice.
I got a little clean-up to do on the passenger side runners and cylinder 6 needs about 1/4" extension on the long straight. Beyond that I think I can start welding the runners. My plan was to take them off the flanges and weld them individually.
Probably going to stick with 3 flex bellows on a single bank (likely the passenger side - as it's missing most) and then put a v-band on each runner.
(deathly afraid to weld on the collector) - but once everything is tacked up I'll see about a beauty-shot with the blower attached
With cylinder 4 running the way it's tacked, it'll cause me to relocate / hardline off the thermostat - actually liking this idea ... considering running the line above the runners and putting a bleeder valve on the high point.
A few extra hours tonight and made it this far tonight...
Conflict #1 - The setup is sitting about 1/2" too close to the engine. I will need to push the assembly 1/2" to 1" forward to allow the serp belt to connect to the crank and alt pulley.
Option #1 - splice in flex sections - I wanted to do this anyways but might not a wise move - (Open to opinions on flex bellows preturbo - see pros & cons below)
Pros - offers heat expansion/wont crack welds, will easily extend the 1/2" I need to push forward, will offer some fitment tolerance
Cons - could leak at higher psi
Option #2 - I still want to install V-bands on each runner - I can add a 1" stub to each runner at this time
Option #3 - no flex pipe and re-size/extend each longitudinal runner (coming off the flange) by an inch. Additional pipe wouldn't be an issue.
Conflict #2 - passenger side waste gate may not clear the cold side housing. The WG may have to be angled or extended.
What are your plans for the radiator? Looks like there won't be much room up front.
DN - what's good?!?! hows your build?
I should have room - I'm not running OEM fans, AC is deleted, and my (aftermarket) radiator sits further up than the OEM location - sits about an inch forward of the main crash rails. I measured a few times and I think I should have 1" +/- on each side of the turbo.
Same as it was when winter started...should have invested my money in a garage heater instead of more parts lol. Picked up a Tuner Nerd knock monitor, just have to get a suitable laptop to take care of it all. I have all the parts in to rework my exhaust system and intake manifold. It will start to warm up here now so should be able to get back to it.
I should have room - I'm not running OEM fans, AC is deleted, and my (aftermarket) radiator sits further up than the OEM location - sits about an inch forward of the main crash rails. I measured a few times and I think I should have 1" +/- on each side of the turbo.
I didn't realise you had a different than stock style cooling set up. I have less than 1" clearance between my pulleys and fan shroud with the CSF rad.
should have invested my money in a garage heater...
It's been pretty cold here too - I have insulated coveralls that I wear
Originally Posted by dnash
I didn't realise you had a different than stock style cooling set up
I have about 11" from the front of the crank pulley to back of the radiator and the widest part of the turbo (which is also about how I want it to sit when it's in place) is ~9". This doesnt factor in my single 16" fan. Which I may have to down size and/or add more than one fan. Also I can push the radiator out a bit. Worst worst worst case, I'll find a slimer radiator.
I'we been following this build since you Got your greddy twins and started building.
great stuff, and insane progress over the years.
actualy your responsible for me getting a TT kit for my own 350z
https://www.350z-uk.com/topic/119087-350z-gtm-twinturbo-kit/?page=13&tab=comments#comment-1802168
What is the shallowest angle you can use to get over the cold side piping? To steep of an angle may diminish the flow to the waste gate not allowing it to bleed off enough exhaust. I doub't you will have a problem since it's a twin scroll just food for thought.
I assume you're going to wrap the pipe to help keep the housing cool?
What is the shallowest angle you can use to get over the cold side piping? To steep of an angle may diminish the flow to the waste gate not allowing it to bleed off enough exhaust. I doub't you will have a problem since it's a twin scroll just food for thought.
I assume you're going to wrap the pipe to help keep the housing cool?
Also what's the plans for the waste gate dumps?
The ID of the collector-ports is 1.7" ... so ideally a 44mm? I wish wastegates werent so expensive bc I'd run 6 off them - one off each runner.
I might be able to install the WG stub right off the collector and run it perpendicular and still clear the cold-side housing if I angle it right. I hear your concern though.
Im likely going to ceramic coat - got a quote for $250 from a shop here locally - but yea, something to keep engine bay temps down.
not sure on the dumps ... either to atmosphere or into the exhaust line. I'd like to run them straight up into the hood but you run the risk of stuff dropping into the blower/WGs ... so maybe a side exit for track-days?
Naa - if youre asking me I'll ceramic coat them before I exhaust wrap them...
last few days I got the runners all taken care of...holy hell Chris DE was right (about shrinking) I easily lost 1/8" to 3/16" after getting all the runners welded-up. Before I was 1/2" to close to the block now I'm gonna be 3/4" and might as well bump it up to 1" to 1.5". I still have the the option of adding bellows which could soak up most (if not all) the gap and I believe the v-bands will also provide 1/2" or so.
I did take acetone & a wire brush to the welds after completion to clean them up. If I had it all over again I would have sanded/ground down my tack welds ... they sorta buggered things up.
Also - my stretch gauge came in and my engine components are ready to be picked up tomorrow!
Pushing the fuel system along ... I have a few more pieces in place. Need to problem solve the return side of the fuel rails (issues making a tight 180 degree bend in a stainless steel tube. Other than that make a few steel-braided hoses and then two stubby hoses fuel is good.
Fuel Pic not loading...grrrrr....
Got real with the headers/turbo setup. Im a solid inch too close to the block. Im a proponent of flex couplers/bellows to allow for heat expansion but I am not 100% sold on these particular bellows - I have a feeling despite everything being supported they may leak. Regardless - I got each runner cut so I can splice in a flex section. One side of the flex is tacked and the other side is free (where I can slide the entire assembly front to back right where I need it and I can weld it in place.
Before I can make my final welds I will need to do final connections between the collector and each runner. I established an order of runner welding so I dont box myself into a corner - I hope I'm right! From there my thought is to mount the blower to the front of the block by the three 17mm bolts.
Got everything back from the machine shop and I'm chomping hard to get the headers finished I'll be restarting the block reassembly in the mean time.
Couldnt resist getting a quick pic of the mains installed with the dynosty girdle...aside from the turbo setup the dynosty girdle is my favorite part of this rebuild.
Getting the lower end organized, hit with acetone & a scrub-pad/shop paper towel and placed in the block.
Just following the EM section of the FSM and rewatching some HPA content for tips & tricks of assembly.
Installed the oil jets w/20ft*lbs of torque - I applied a small amount of lubrication on the threads to prevent metal on metal.
Block side main bearings (slotted side) were pretty easy, placed and then lubricated the friction side.
Hit the crank with acetone and shop towel just as a quick once-over. Placed the crank and then the thrusts. Did a double check in the FSM to ensure the foot on each bearing was placed correctly and the groove side out.
Cleaned caps with the acetone & the scrubby and installed cap bearings. Did cap #3 first with the thrust bearings stuck to the crank and dropped the cap on - took a little fenangleing but I got it.
Everything rotates like you'd expect …
I don't know if I should installed the windage screen on the dynosty girdle … and if not on the girldle (I really don't want to tap into it) should it be installed on the upper oil pan?
Got the bottom caps/girdle installed and torqued down. Took them to ~65ft*ft (ARP says 60ft*lbs). I didnt know if the Dynosty girdle has a front/back orientation - it looks symetrical so I installed the 'dynosty' impression up with respect to the front of the engine. After torquing down the crank rotates freely.
02-28-2019, 09:57 PM
