Stopping power for FI
So I've been wondering. For a real big hp street car (highway/roll on car), what kind of stopping power really is necessary?
I've seen some baller brakes on builds (ashton and his 6 pot mu's), but for those guys who don't have thousands to drop, what gets the job done for a few pulls, what fades etc. Obviously stock brakes (06+) are going to fade after one pull (or even during!), but what have you guys found to be a good solution? I'm not looking to track the car yet, but I would like to set a goal for what to buy and save up.
I ask here because stopping from 150+ is not common practice on most cars.
Personally have been looking in the range of 4 pot 14" (akebono). Also would race pads be the correct choice? Or would street pads with more bite hold up?
I've seen some baller brakes on builds (ashton and his 6 pot mu's), but for those guys who don't have thousands to drop, what gets the job done for a few pulls, what fades etc. Obviously stock brakes (06+) are going to fade after one pull (or even during!), but what have you guys found to be a good solution? I'm not looking to track the car yet, but I would like to set a goal for what to buy and save up.
I ask here because stopping from 150+ is not common practice on most cars.
Personally have been looking in the range of 4 pot 14" (akebono). Also would race pads be the correct choice? Or would street pads with more bite hold up?
Last edited by Resmarted; Mar 6, 2013 at 12:03 PM.
why would you ever do a roll on race where you have to go from 150-0 multiple times that quickly? if you trap over 150 at the track you have to have a chute. fade only happens after multiple hard brake zones like on a road course. you;d never feel fade out on the street (unless mtn run), even with the stock brakes.
run SS lines and a fancy hi temp brake fluid on whatever brakes you have now and it will be fine.
run SS lines and a fancy hi temp brake fluid on whatever brakes you have now and it will be fine.
why would you ever do a roll on race where you have to go from 150-0 multiple times that quickly? if you trap over 150 at the track you have to have a chute. fade only happens after multiple hard brake zones like on a road course. you;d never feel fade out on the street (unless mtn run), even with the stock brakes.
run SS lines and a fancy hi temp brake fluid on whatever brakes you have now and it will be fine.
run SS lines and a fancy hi temp brake fluid on whatever brakes you have now and it will be fine.
I mean from what I've read once the stockers overheat, they're toast for a long while. Would 06+ brakes nice rotors race pads ss lines and fluid be a solid solution do you think?
Nobody around here has a laggy big hp setup so i dont know who to ask lol.
Might wanna ask over in the autocross/road racing subforum as those guys hit well into the 130-140s on long straights and have to keep braking the rest of the track. They go just as fast, just take longer to get there, but that is no concern.
on the road for a roll-on , its never been a concern.
on the road for a roll-on , its never been a concern.
why would you ever do a roll on race where you have to go from 150-0 multiple times that quickly? if you trap over 150 at the track you have to have a chute. fade only happens after multiple hard brake zones like on a road course. you;d never feel fade out on the street (unless mtn run), even with the stock brakes.
run SS lines and a fancy hi temp brake fluid on whatever brakes you have now and it will be fine.
run SS lines and a fancy hi temp brake fluid on whatever brakes you have now and it will be fine.
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Without any doubt... best bang for your buck with zero compromise... Akebono BBK Conversion. This was the best buys I made second only to BP Mid Mount Turbo Kit. These brakes make the stock Brembos child's play and are a huge step from the 06 Stock Brakes. You can track all day with these especially if you get them with slotted disc. I highly recommend buying the full conversion kit with StopTech Slotted Rotors sold by CZP. I bought it from them and it's truly a complete conversion including SS Brake Lines and all fluid required. Links below:
http://www.conceptzperformance.com/C...399.107.70.237
http://www.conceptzperformance.com/C...399.107.70.237
All the stopping power you'll ever need... Seriously!
http://www.conceptzperformance.com/C...399.107.70.237
http://www.conceptzperformance.com/C...399.107.70.237
All the stopping power you'll ever need... Seriously!
except the compromise that they are heavy as ****?
axis ultimate pads and upgraded tires will provide more stopping power then any bbk, like deadeye said the advantage is improved heat dissipation which for what resmarted is asking about is a non issue meaning you are adding weight for no benefit.
i would be more concerned about loosing vacuum after repeated high boost and high speed stops since the engine wont be producing much vacuum if any.
axis ultimate pads and upgraded tires will provide more stopping power then any bbk, like deadeye said the advantage is improved heat dissipation which for what resmarted is asking about is a non issue meaning you are adding weight for no benefit.
i would be more concerned about loosing vacuum after repeated high boost and high speed stops since the engine wont be producing much vacuum if any.
Without any doubt... best bang for your buck with zero compromise... Akebono BBK Conversion. This was the best buys I made second only to BP Mid Mount Turbo Kit. These brakes make the stock Brembos child's play and are a huge step from the 06 Stock Brakes. You can track all day with these especially if you get them with slotted disc. I highly recommend buying the full conversion kit with StopTech Slotted Rotors sold by CZP. I bought it from them and it's truly a complete conversion including SS Brake Lines and all fluid required. Links below:
http://www.conceptzperformance.com/C...399.107.70.237
http://www.conceptzperformance.com/C...399.107.70.237
All the stopping power you'll ever need... Seriously!
http://www.conceptzperformance.com/C...399.107.70.237
http://www.conceptzperformance.com/C...399.107.70.237
All the stopping power you'll ever need... Seriously!
I like the thread…I like the train of thought here…
From a physic 'conservation of energy' standpoint, the engine converts fuel to mechanical motion and the brakes convert that mechanical energy to heat…
I believe the rotors are the weak link here, I believe their heat capacity is ample but their dissipation rate is insufficient…so going to a drilled and slotted rotor is a option.
Another thing I would think about before choosing your rotor is it's weight(mass)…an increase in mass will negatively affect your acceleration…if you've spent much time around drag-strip cars they have normal sized calipers but thin, single sided rotors…and obviously chutes that slow them from triple digit speeds to the double digits speeds with no added un-sprung weight…
if you're going 150mph to 25mph multiple times in a row I would look at your rotors…if this is a 150mph to 25mph is once every 15minutes + then I would stay with your OEM rotors...
From a physic 'conservation of energy' standpoint, the engine converts fuel to mechanical motion and the brakes convert that mechanical energy to heat…
I believe the rotors are the weak link here, I believe their heat capacity is ample but their dissipation rate is insufficient…so going to a drilled and slotted rotor is a option.
Another thing I would think about before choosing your rotor is it's weight(mass)…an increase in mass will negatively affect your acceleration…if you've spent much time around drag-strip cars they have normal sized calipers but thin, single sided rotors…and obviously chutes that slow them from triple digit speeds to the double digits speeds with no added un-sprung weight…
if you're going 150mph to 25mph multiple times in a row I would look at your rotors…if this is a 150mph to 25mph is once every 15minutes + then I would stay with your OEM rotors...
Last edited by bealljk; Mar 6, 2013 at 05:45 PM.
the most i could possibly see anyone needing is high temp fluid, race pads, stainless lines, and either stock brembo's with 2 piece rotors or something else lightweight like the wilwood 13 inch kit. if you need anything more then that get brake ducts
Under $2000.00 it's still the best bang for your buck if a BBK is in mind and with FI it's not much of a hit in rotational mass...LOL
But if he really wants to keep it cheap and stay with stock calipers then I would still recommend SS Brake Lines, Hawk HPS or HP Plus Pads and Slotted Disc. Also upgrade to brake fluid with maybe Motul RBF 600 or 660.
And about heat... braking from 150 to zero will produce really high levels of heat even if it's only for a short time which with the stock calipers can easily produce boil over.
Avoid Drilled Disc since they were originally designed for Stock Brake Pads that had asbestos. Now a days, drilled discs are just for looks and are actually a weak point when braking hard as the holes tend to crack under repeated stress.
But if he really wants to keep it cheap and stay with stock calipers then I would still recommend SS Brake Lines, Hawk HPS or HP Plus Pads and Slotted Disc. Also upgrade to brake fluid with maybe Motul RBF 600 or 660.
And about heat... braking from 150 to zero will produce really high levels of heat even if it's only for a short time which with the stock calipers can easily produce boil over.
Avoid Drilled Disc since they were originally designed for Stock Brake Pads that had asbestos. Now a days, drilled discs are just for looks and are actually a weak point when braking hard as the holes tend to crack under repeated stress.
Last edited by Drako_MDx; Mar 6, 2013 at 06:02 PM.
$900 more gets you a kit that far outperforms it with 2 piece rotors you cant get the akebono with 2 piece rotors for the $2900 the wilwood kit goes for everyday at summit and sometimes seen them for $2600 on jegs. its not just acceleration you have to worry about, the 14 inch kit requires larger wheels doubling the increase in weight making the brakes work harder and in some applications actually hurting stopping distance. it also provides a pretty massive hit to the suspension and handling, every 1 pounds unsprung is equal to about 4 lbs sprung. honestly i would trade 100 lbs in sprung weight to drop 20 lbs unsprung
most people go to the bigger kit because they like the look not because it provides any performance advantage, you can find brembos in the market place for under 2k with race pads they will still lock up the wheels even with r compounds, that means going bigger isnt providing any increased stopping distance.
most people go to the bigger kit because they like the look not because it provides any performance advantage, you can find brembos in the market place for under 2k with race pads they will still lock up the wheels even with r compounds, that means going bigger isnt providing any increased stopping distance.
Under $2000.00 it's still the best bang for your buck if a BBK is in mind and with FI it's not much of a hit in rotational mass...LOL
But if he really wants to keep it cheap and stay with stock calipers then I would still recommend SS Brake Lines, Hawk HPS or HP Plus Pads and Slotted Disc. Also upgrade to brake fluid like maybe Motul RBF 600 or 660.
And about heat... braking from 150 to zero will produce really high levels of heat even if it's only for a short time which with the stock calipers can easily produce boil over.
But if he really wants to keep it cheap and stay with stock calipers then I would still recommend SS Brake Lines, Hawk HPS or HP Plus Pads and Slotted Disc. Also upgrade to brake fluid like maybe Motul RBF 600 or 660.
And about heat... braking from 150 to zero will produce really high levels of heat even if it's only for a short time which with the stock calipers can easily produce boil over.
Last edited by jerryd87; Mar 6, 2013 at 06:14 PM.
Like what has already been mentioned....unless you auto-x get stock brembos (rotors and all), nice pads an SS lines call it a day. I've hot lapped OEM brembos (upgraded pads only, stock lines ect) at the strip a dozen times in a row without fade. G35 is heavier too.
A lot of good view points in here.
I'm looking at swapping the 06 brakes, get some nice high carbon ebc rotors, fluid, ss lines and some HP Plus or Axxis pads. I have 245 r888's in the front so there should be some decent grip in the front.
Now just need to sell more oem stuff lol.
Thanks for the input guys!
I'm looking at swapping the 06 brakes, get some nice high carbon ebc rotors, fluid, ss lines and some HP Plus or Axxis pads. I have 245 r888's in the front so there should be some decent grip in the front.
Now just need to sell more oem stuff lol.
Thanks for the input guys!
4 or 5 back to back runs down the airstrip (have to brake hard to not hit the bushes!) and not only were my Stoptech's smoking, but my Volks were smoking. I had a center cap unglue and fall off (never realized they were 2 piece until then). Noticed it lying there a few minutes later and couldn't pick it up it was still scorching hot! JB welded that together and has held since.
No brake fade though with the 6 pot / 4 pot 14" kit.
No brake fade though with the 6 pot / 4 pot 14" kit.
Last edited by rcdash; Mar 7, 2013 at 02:29 PM.
XP10's work great with blank or good slotted rotors. Factory Brembos.
Nismo, and some Hawk pads have been $hit. Multiple high speed runs even down to 70mph have caused the pads mentioned above to fade, even with good fluid and SS lines. Lol at some of you asking "why?" Don't run much I see.
Nismo, and some Hawk pads have been $hit. Multiple high speed runs even down to 70mph have caused the pads mentioned above to fade, even with good fluid and SS lines. Lol at some of you asking "why?" Don't run much I see.
The point of a big brake kit is for heat displacement over a larger surface area. This is most beneficial for auto-x/track racing. Ie when you are off your brakes for seconds before entering another turn. I feel a lot of people do not understand this. OP... Research a good pad and rotor. I had the StopTech OEM kit way back in the day and it served me well. But I would look for a better pad than the supplied Axxis pads.
The point of a big brake kit is for heat displacement over a larger surface area. This is most beneficial for auto-x/track racing. Ie when you are off your brakes for seconds before entering another turn. I feel a lot of people do not understand this. OP... Research a good pad and rotor. I had the StopTech OEM kit way back in the day and it served me well. But I would look for a better pad than the supplied Axxis pads.
If I was building a stock block car or something of the like I'd just be fine with slapping together an upgrade. But I'm going for 800+ at the crank. I'd rather not crash into a wall... Having brake fade at over 80mph would be total sh*t.
Obviously I'm not going to do a pull, slow down to 60 and then just do another pull and slow down again, but I'd like to have something that will work. If it's limited in how many pulls I can do etc, that's ok, as long as I'm aware what my braking system's limits are BEFORE I go and try to stop from high speed. The amount of brake fade won't be linear at those speeds. So I'd rather turn to you all, who've done this before for guidance.
Last edited by Resmarted; Mar 8, 2013 at 01:51 PM.








