project mu sucks anyways

 

@Resmarted

I understand it's kinda of hard to decipher through opinions and recommendations on this forum so I'll try and make it simple for you when it comes to brakes on our cars.

The following will go from low performance to higher:

Fluid in this comparision will remain the same throughout even from stock - Motul RBF 600

1. Stock Calipers as all 06 came from factory - Crap! (will fade after first hard braking from high speeds)

2. Stock Calipers with upgraded Pads and SS Lines - Still Crap! (with a slightly better pedal feel)

3. Stock Calipers with upgraded Pads, Slotted Vented Rotors, and SS Lines - Upgraded Crap... LOL (definitely better than above but still kinda crap since stock calipers are horrible at dissipating heat. With the added bite from better pads and slotted disc you've increases stopping power aka friction which translates to rapid heat.)

4. Stock Brembo upgrade from 04 and 05 cars models - much... much... better than all of the above. (Still wouldn't classify it as track worthy yet)

5. Stock 14" Akebono upgrade - Really strong stopping power (but since it's on stock rotors and no SS Lines it falls just short of the setup below.)

6. Stock Brembo with upgraded Pads, Slotted Vented Rotors and SS lines. - Most definitely Track worthy (but more Auto Cross that rarely goes over 90mph on any section of the track. On actual race tracks like 14 turns in Homestead or 17 turns at Sebring you'll start to get some fade and eventual boil-over from the higher speeds one gets on the longer straights. Will handle 30min Sprint sessions just fine.)

7. Stock 14" Akebono with upgrades Pads, Slotted Vented Rotors and SS Lines - Monster Stopping power... much more then above setup and really good at heat dissipation. (Definitely track worthy on both Auto Cross and actual race tracks. Will hold up to 30min sprint sessions and even 1 1/2 to 6 hours Endurance races.)

8. Both Brembo and Akebono setup with 2 piece Slotted Vented Rotors will improve how long they last before Brake Fluid fails. Akebono caliper will still out perform the Stock Brembo though.

9. 6 Pot Calipers front and 4 Pot Rear and above... - Performance will equal what you pay... LOL



Anyone who says that the Stock Brembo calipers out perform the Akebonos is out of their minds and have clearly not used them on same car. I have yet to see anyone upgrade to Akebono calipers and then switch back to the Brembo setup especially those who track their cars.

 

considering the fastest Z/G run 15" skinny's up front (ie dynosty's powerglide car, SP's TT car, Rocky's VTR car,etc..) and must use stock brakes, That should be your answer right there.

 

Seriously! ?

Yeah cuz everyone these days run there daily drivers gutted out on 15" Skinny's all for the glory of going really fast in a straight line and stopping hard once every half hour or so...

FFS guys, use some common sense and compare apples to apples not grapes to grape fruits.

Come on you OGs... I use to come here back in the days to get solid information from you guys on this forum even though I drive a G35... I still do but some of you guys lately are slipping on useful information.

 

did you even read what the guy is using the car for? roll on races...

not road course, not mountain passes. roll on racing. so yes straight line, stop once every 30 mins. everything else is just extra rotating weight to try to look cool.

 

Even on a highway, "who's got the biggest ***** contest" most of the times it's more than one pull at a time and even then they still might want to be able to stop after the fact since there might be unexpected traffic or dumb asses throwing themselves in front of fast approaching cars.

With my life on the line in a fast FI car... I'd want that safe overhead rather than just having enough stopping power for one or two pull.

But some will gamble with their lives I guess.

Either way the breakdown I gave him above lets him know how each upgrade stacks up against the next one. This should give anyone looking to upgrade there brakes some sort of guideline.

 

your not giving any sound advice yourself, EVERY bbk for the z and g is designed to have the same piston volume as stock. whats that mean? your previous post about increased stopping power is bs. the only way to increase stopping power is to increase force exerted or increase the stickiness of the tires.

all the bbk's use the same master cylinder and same piston volume or very very close to stock meaning that line pressure and pressure at the pistons are exactly the same. pads ARE bigger however this results in a wash, more friction material comes into contact with the rotor which you would think means more stopping power however bigger also means the force exerted by the pistons is spread out more resulting in lower psi exerted on the rotor. absolute best case your equal to stock, on a crap designed kit you going to have lower then stock braking power.

the absolute only benefit you will get is increased heat dissipation, which a 13 inch kit with ducts will be able to provide. not to mention if you need that much cooling you would run 1 piece rotors not 2 piece because 2 piece have lower heat dissipation. less contact between the rotor ring and hub section, which means less heat transfered to the hub section and less heat transferred to the wheel hub itself.

cant bypass physics and thermodynamics on wishful thinking which is what your statement claims, that somehow the kits work on magic and ignore all the laws of science because they are bigger.

 

really might wanna check things out, the akebono's are one of the absolute worse kits you can purchase. your putting your life on the line repeated with them, do a little research on the car they come on, under hard use they fail, people are causing complete failure in the brake system with stainless lines and high temp fluid on the 370's/g37's in 20 mins on the track.

i would say your better off with stock then akebono, at the point where you might experience brake failue the best thing you can do is add cooling ducts.

 

I kept reading the rest just to see google search in action but was still sadly disappoint. Same piston volume as stock... Seriously! ?

Jerryd87

Please stick to FI information which you definitely know your **** but stay away from brake info.

Of course different pad materials, rotors, tire size, ect will change things but to stay away from which brand is better I decided to leave all other variables the same. So when I mention upgraded pads and slotted better rotors this means those variables stay constant.

The info I gave is from actual track experience with each of the setups I've mentioned. Actual use and not he said she said info. Take it how you want it but this had been my experience with each setup as my car and other team cars were upgrade for Fara, Nasa and SCCA races.

 

lol you might wanna stay away from ALL info because you are massively misinformed yes the piston volume is the same go sit down and calculate it, more pistons dont mean more volume when they are tiny if you honestly think you have increased stopping distance your retarded show me a single test showing what you say is true. guarantee my stock brakes vs your upgraded crap on the same compound pads with the same tires will stop the same.

why do you think you can swap to a big brake kit on JUST the front without a proportioning valve? because the piston volume is the same, if the bbk had more piston volume(to increase clamping force since less volume would equal less pressure and less clamping force.) then it would be impossible to run just a front bbk due to the fact that the front brakes would lock up with next to no pressure on the rears.

before making a lame attempt to insult someone or tell them they are wrong do some research and learn how things actually work. the whole "it works better because i say so" dosnt work in this crowd. thats all you provided is that they work better because you say so, you have 0 data to back it up and contradict what the industry says, what science says, and what actually happens, then expect us to just eat it up sorry your the only gullible one here.

i can purchase the same pad compounds for my stock 03 brakes as your akebonos i can also purchase the same rotors minus 2 piece's fact of the matter is akebono is one of the worst kits you can purchase which has been shown repeatedly with people who actually track there 370s an g37's not only that but when they fade they give next to no warning and simply drop completely. obviously your not pushing it very hard is somehow by magic yours work better then the dozens of reports that say they are crap both in stock form and with upgraded lines, fluids, and pads. that tells me that your not even pushing the brakes and could have easily gotten away with stock and upgraded components that or you dont know how to drive you can take your pick of which it is.

people also track there cars and try to claim how good stance and bc coilovers are, dosnt mean crap when they wernt even pushing the limits of stock components that simply needed a refresh.

oh yah and to back up what i have said about the akebono's being absolute crap, i might not be the most knowledgeable about brakes but i know enough not to buy into marketing hype, nissan went to akebono for price not performance. i can also tell you that nascar runs brakes under 13 inch diameter rotor's, thickness is about the same as our 13 inch kits too even for the more intensive tracks they dont even swap calipers they just run a slightly thicker rotor for more heat dissipation. indy and f1 run even smaller then that(there wheels alone are only 13 inchs) they might be lighter but they also see much more intensive braking periods then anything anyone here will run. again brake ducts are all 95% of people on here need and will provide you more benefit then a damn 16 inch bbk
https://www.google.com/search?q=370z...hrome&ie=UTF-8

i dont just come up with **** and pull it out of my *** i also know i can lock up 285/30/18 fronts and 305/35/18 rears on stock brakes by disabling abs, and my brakes have held up to about 30 150+ slow downs now although fluid does need changed now. for high speed repeated runs the only issue is running out of vacuum to operate the brakes why manual brakes might be a option for some.

 

As expected... one of the OGs has resorted to name calling when someone disagrees with him and I'm astonished at how dumb he continues to make himself look.

Since you continue to want to dig your own gave deeper lets help you a bit more.

You mean to tell me that an 06 stock caliper that was designed for a much smaller rotor and lighter car has the same piston volume and clamping power as a G37s Akebono brake kit design for a much larger rotor and heavier car.

Are you really this Retarded!? Do you believe everything in the internet is a Fact... LOL

Rhetorical questions as you've already clearly answered this with all your useless replies that have nothing positive to add to this thread except an obvious ego boost on your part.

This will be my last reply on the subject as I refuse to bring myself down to your ego stroking idiotic level.

@Resmarted... I hope my info helps you in your decision as well as anyone else who's looking for constructive information in this forum. Sorry for this dumb off topic reply but some of these OGs are getting a bit out of hand.

 

well if im so retarded prove me wrong? go calculate the total brake volume..... bet you $100 you dont post here anymore after doing so. brake rotor has 0 to do with piston volume, nor does caliper size news flash the only thing to affect that is you guessed it size of the pisons.

edit:was thinking akebono 8 piston front but only 4 dont need to post the only one looking ignorant her is yourself who seems to think that 4 pistons 1/5th the size of the oem single piston = more volume then 1 larger thats 10 times the size, guess what volume isnt just diameter its depth as well. go take some engineering classes mean while anyone serious about performance is going to be lapping you all day with better components i even provided backup to show that what you purchased is crap.

my guess? your butt hurt because a store played you making you think it was so amazing for cheap and your upset because its not nearly as good as you where lead to believe another instance of "if its too good to be true it probably isnt true."

again the only thing you have provided is "its better because i say so!" again not a shred of anything to back it up. not only that you ignore any comment i make to try and backup your statements my guess you already did the math and figured out im right and are trying to save face. yah the 370 is heavier, the 370 has also had countless brake failures on those brakes when pushed hence the link i provided. yah the rotors are bigger, explain how bigger rotors have anything to with clamping force? last i checked they dont have magic arms that reach out and help pull the pad into them. sure bigger calipers too, again dosnt mean jack since a caliper just is a housing for the pistons they again dont do squat for clamping force. the only thing that DOES help is piston volume, and the piston volume is still stock, if it where more then stock it would be illegal to sell the kits front and rear seperate as it would cause potential accidents and the store would be held liable. the absolute only thing that the bigger crap does is increase heat dissipation which several people in this thread have already told you. as will anyone serious about tracking a car

i dint resort to name calling because you disagreed with me i did it because your spreading false information with no data to back it up, you have been here long enough to know that dosnt fly here. if it did we would have alot more people like yourself trying to make bs claims and hurting the platform even more. leave discussion on how things work to people who actually have a clue, in the mean time take a physics class and mayby a trig class it will do wonders for you.

 

from a bbk manufacturer themselves towards the bottom of brake kits section
Q: How much better is braking going to be if I use your product over stock?
A:

Most modern stock brake systems work well for average daily street driving and an occasional 60-0 or 80-0 stopping. Typically performance enthusiasts who occasionally compete in racing events, push the stock brake system beyond its capabilities. Driving style, and other performance modifications such as increased horsepower, tire and suspension upgrades, etc., can quickly overwhelm stock brakes. A big brake kit will provide increased heat capacity, which means substantially more resistance to brake fade and caliper distortion with multiple stops from high speed. A firmer pedal due to stronger and stiffer components, as well as better modulation characteristics are also benefits of a properly balanced brake upgrade.

http://www.wilwood.com/TechTip/TechFaqs.aspx


so in other words even a bbk manufacturer is saying your retarded if you think a bbk is helping your stopping distance, in fact if you keep reading it pretty much backs up everything i said.

 

Stoptech doesn't advertise or claim increased piston volume, nor do they claim shorter stopping distances. In fact, they warn against having too many pistons or pistons that are too large for a given brake system. Read the first 3 paragraphs.

http://www.stoptech.com/products/big...-kits/overview

If you look at the size of the pistons in a Stoptech 6-piston caliper, they are significantly smaller than the pistons in an OEM 2-piston caliper.

 

Ever heard of a brake master cylinder? Research the specs for both models and you'll find the answer to your question about which has more clamping force.

 

no no rude you must be wrong the akebonos have more pistons so they must be better

if someone seriously is trying to up brake clamping force they should go for dual 7/8 master cylinders on tilton pedals, might be able to do 3/4 inch not sure how hard the pedal would be with those

 

Lol whats up with the tags for this thread?!

Str8 good call. Ive seen pics of hals car... Looks like hes using slotted rotors on stock calipers. If it's good enough for him, im sure ill be fine as well. His ***** are way bigger than mine...

Drako you should chill out. If you have a problem with the way i chose to build my car, post it in my build thread or post a rant somewhere. The maximum clamping force of a brake setup is not defined by how many pistons calipers have, and thats a well known fact (think about how the hydraulics work). You did post some relevant information, but turning this into an argument never ends well for anyone.

Jerry in his defense, im fairly sure the akebono kit is not garbage. I think the issue is the 370z's and g37's have very poor brake cooling. At least that's what the articles i read seemed to claim.

Anyway, it looks like upgraded 06+ calipers and rotors will be enough for my goals. Now im going to try and figure out what pads and rotors are going to hold up to this abuse.

 

Carbotech XP10 are all you'll ever need for brake pads.

Pricing here...
http://www.ctbrakes.com/pads.asp?Make=Nissan

 

Considering you've been provided accurate information by everyone in this thread and rebuffed most all of it with this, in your own words, "dumb off topic reply", speaks to your own ego and intelligence (too much of the former and too little of the latter). At least your rants will serve to clear up some common misconceptions for other readers.

 

I ran the stock Brembos, drilled Slotted rotors, SS lines, brake fluid and the HP plus pads.

I noticed a BIG difference in stopping power with just the HP Plus pads and stickier tires. Only downside is the amount of heat they generate. It's a good budget setup and only cost about $600.