rcdash v3.0 (by Dynosty)
01-31-2015, 01:13 PM
#145
Lol low mounted turbos have been around since before 2010. Need to do more learning about these here turbo Z's. One well known example is the SP 350z. It's the best placement for twins
Rc for valve placement definitely go further downstream. Personally on your setup I'd put them right before the mufflers and simply drill a few holes in the valves to allow some exhaust through. Putting them further downstream will reduce the temp they see a bit and should help them survive.
Rc for valve placement definitely go further downstream. Personally on your setup I'd put them right before the mufflers and simply drill a few holes in the valves to allow some exhaust through. Putting them further downstream will reduce the temp they see a bit and should help them survive.
Last edited by Resmarted; 01-31-2015 at 01:16 PM.
Now he's finally completing the copy-cat with the boost cut outs
02-01-2015, 02:43 PM
#150
Lol low mounted turbos have been around since before 2010. Need to do more learning about these here turbo Z's. One well known example is the SP 350z. It's the best placement for twins
Rc for valve placement definitely go further downstream. Personally on your setup I'd put them right before the mufflers and simply drill a few holes in the valves to allow some exhaust through. Putting them further downstream will reduce the temp they see a bit and should help them survive.
Rc for valve placement definitely go further downstream. Personally on your setup I'd put them right before the mufflers and simply drill a few holes in the valves to allow some exhaust through. Putting them further downstream will reduce the temp they see a bit and should help them survive.
02-02-2015, 12:55 PM
#152
Lol low mounted turbos have been around since before 2010. Need to do more learning about these here turbo Z's. One well known example is the SP 350z. It's the best placement for twins
Rc for valve placement definitely go further downstream. Personally on your setup I'd put them right before the mufflers and simply drill a few holes in the valves to allow some exhaust through. Putting them further downstream will reduce the temp they see a bit and should help them survive.
Rc for valve placement definitely go further downstream. Personally on your setup I'd put them right before the mufflers and simply drill a few holes in the valves to allow some exhaust through. Putting them further downstream will reduce the temp they see a bit and should help them survive.
02-02-2015, 01:11 PM
#154
Think about it, even on a stock car, having completely shut valves would be problematic over time. I'm pretty sure you're not intending to have these on the mainline exhaust path, but rather as cutouts? But even then still would be worth it to have a few relief holes.
If you put a few holes in it would still cut down noise by a ton... It would relieve pressure and probably help with heat a bit.
I've yet to see an electric cut out that doesn't die, and most of the cars I know of that have them are basically stock cars with an exhaust. A lot of them even still have cats before the cut out.... Lol this tundra that I helped a guy rice out had his sh** out before 2 months... But it's your car! You do whatever you want. I would drill them with a few 1/4" or 1/2" holes, then sand and paint them with high temp paint on just the faces (not the edges of the butterfly).
02-02-2015, 01:55 PM
#155
^ the valves open at 2 psi, always, so they would never be under much load. Also there is always an exit path via the muffler. These are not in the main exhaust stream. They provide 2 more exhaust exits (muffler bypass) above 2-5 psi.
02-06-2015, 05:24 AM
#158
Raj, do you know what spark plugs and gap you are using?
I was on the dyno yesterday and getting some missing above 5k rpm at high boost. I have 3 steps cooler spark plugs. My gap was set to 27 thousandths. We changed them to 20 thousandths and it still did it. We changed to coils with some used ones Roger had laying around, but it still did it. Next week we will put in new spark plugs and coils, and check all of the pigtails/connectors. I may need 4 steps cooler spark plugs, but not sure.
I was on the dyno yesterday and getting some missing above 5k rpm at high boost. I have 3 steps cooler spark plugs. My gap was set to 27 thousandths. We changed them to 20 thousandths and it still did it. We changed to coils with some used ones Roger had laying around, but it still did it. Next week we will put in new spark plugs and coils, and check all of the pigtails/connectors. I may need 4 steps cooler spark plugs, but not sure.
02-06-2015, 05:58 AM
#159
Raj, do you know what spark plugs and gap you are using?
I was on the dyno yesterday and getting some missing above 5k rpm at high boost. I have 3 steps cooler spark plugs. My gap was set to 27 thousandths. We changed them to 20 thousandths and it still did it. We changed to coils with some used ones Roger had laying around, but it still did it. Next week we will put in new spark plugs and coils, and check all of the pigtails/connectors. I may need 4 steps cooler spark plugs, but not sure.
I was on the dyno yesterday and getting some missing above 5k rpm at high boost. I have 3 steps cooler spark plugs. My gap was set to 27 thousandths. We changed them to 20 thousandths and it still did it. We changed to coils with some used ones Roger had laying around, but it still did it. Next week we will put in new spark plugs and coils, and check all of the pigtails/connectors. I may need 4 steps cooler spark plugs, but not sure.
02-06-2015, 08:40 AM
#160
dang and here I am on 1 step colder, or maybe even stock heat plugs with good timing bands... 
3 step is way too cold. Your plugs are prolly fouled. 4 step would be insane. Unless you were running C16 all time, 1 step is all you need.
I'm gapped at like .027 i think
3 step is way too cold. Your plugs are prolly fouled. 4 step would be insane. Unless you were running C16 all time, 1 step is all you need.
I'm gapped at like .027 i think
Last edited by str8dum1; 02-06-2015 at 08:42 AM.