This is actually my second attempt. The first time I used too much so I took it down, cleaned it up and redid it. The bead I used here was 4-5mm and I torqued it to service manual specs.

I'm tempted to take it down again and redo it but as they say, sometimes the enemy of good is better.

 

Isn't it much better to just use a gasket ?

http://www.ebay.com/itm/95-09-Infiniti-FX35-G35-Nissan-350Z-Altima-Engine-Oil-Pan-Gasket-Fel-Pro-OS30688-/290683713229?_trksid=p2047675.m1850&_trkparms=aid%3D222001%26algo%3DSIC.CURRENT%26ao%3D1%26asc%3D11%26meid%3D7274163128160981587%26pid%3D100011%26prg%3D1005%26rk%3D1%26sd%3D221213702941%26

 

There is no gasket from the dealer. This is the method described in the service manual. I would much rather use a gasket if there was one. I'll take a look at that felpro gasket you linked to. Now I'm freaking out that a blob of RTV is gonna break off and clog the oil screen.

 

Thanks, man. Guess I should have looked harder for a better solution. They even stock the felpro gasket at my local autozone for $10. Gonna pick 2 up later today when it opens up. I'd much rather deal with an oil leak than a bad bearing or dead turbo. Now gonna crawl back under the car and tear this thing down again.

 

I once had to tear down a Jaguar motor that had been put together like that. The oil pump screen was totally gummed up with that RTV crap, and it spun a few crank bearings. $$$$$$. Use a gasket, and maybe a little of this:


or this:

 

Buy a big piece of gasket material and a template. Or take the pan off and the shape onto the gasket material.

 

I've used those gaskets from napa before. They work well. I use rtv now on this aftermarket pan. There is a screen on the oil pickup so it won't get sucked up into the engine if some breaks off. I just pulled my pan to clean it out after letting the car sit for a long time and I had a bead of rtv on the inside. It was still attached to the pan since I waited the full 24 hours with the train plug out (to get fresh air in the pan) and it cured completely.

 

The key point is to let RTV dry before putting oil into the oil pan. Once RTV is fully cured, it wont come off.

 

Gasket fractured at one of the bolt holes and leaked. Going back to RTV. Just gonna keep doing it over until I'm happy I have the right amount. I do let it dry for 24+ hrs.

 

Exactly. I leave the oil plug out to allow some more air into the pan as well.

Did you over tighten it? I never had an issue with the gaskets. I think they were napa brand and not feltpro though.

 

Don't think so. I followed the service manual instructions for torque and tightening sequence. Torque wrech is a new craftsman 3/8 inch (in-lb) piece. I think the copper spray sealant prevented the gasket from compressing uniformly and lead to the fracture. In any case it's the last thing I need to do before I fire the car up for the first time. Excited and nervous. Hoping I don't have a ton of exhaust/intake/oil leaks.

 

Copper gasket sealer is only for METAL (copper or stainless) seals not felt or composite gaskets. It says that on the can. That is the reason you have issues. Just put the gasket on the pan and torque to spec and you won't have any issues. I never did.

 

Well I f'ed up the pan. Somehow the force was focused around the bolt holes and depressed the metal on the pan around a few holes so that it no longer sits flat on the spacer. Expensive lesson learned. Will have to get a new pan tomorrow from the dealer. Just gonna RTV the pan on like the service manual says to. In fact the silicone applied by the factory between the upper pan and block has a lot more excess than in my first photo. The enemy of good really is better.

 

just buy a used pan on here. I'm sure plenty of people have them left over from installing aftermarket pans. I'm not entirely sure where mine is or I'd give it to you.

 

The reason I send RTV with the kit is because the gasket does not work well after you remove the OEM pan. The pan is difficult to remove, and is often bent/deformed a bit when you first try to pry it off. Because of this, it is hard to get a gasket to seal as the tolerances are different all around. The RTV does a great job of alleviating this potential issue.

The gasket would work fine between the oil pan spacer and the upper oil pan, but not between the lower oil pan and the spacer.

 

I bent my oil pan trying to pry it off when putting my spacer in. I just hammered it back where it looked good and rtv'ed it in place. Works fine

 

From the looks of it, looks like you did a perfectly fine job...As long as you give it adequate time to cure/dry nothing is going to happen...I think your being a little over paranoid lol

Ive used RTV on numerous oipans, valve covers, outer timing chain covers....etc...Personally i prefer it over a gasket simply becauase its so cheap and convenient. It sucks how messy this **** is though, takes forever to come off your skin when you let it dry on you too BLAHHH

 

Thanks for all the suggestions. Dealer wants $150 and someone offered to sell me one for $65 shipped. Of course would have to wait for shipping. Maybe I can come up with a way to hammer it flat. If it leaks it's likely to be a slow leak so I'm really no worse off than I am now. The holes are depressed only a mm or two.

 

Put it on a solid (steel) surface, and use a large surface punch to even it out from what would be the underside. Worked great for me. Just work your way around slowly and you will be fine. Just put a bit extra RTV on that side, and make sure to go on both sides of the bolt hole.

Let it set overnigh, and you are good to go.

 

yep, I hammered mine back into place after the first time I took the pan off. I just used a rubber head dead blow so I wouldn't destroy anything and was careful with it.