Intercooler piping is 2.5" and I don't feel comfortable redoing it at this point. However I do believe that efficient IC would help with intake temps, because I'm seeing up to 167F on these hot summer days (100F). Thanks for your offer anyway!

Although it doesn't look very nice, it isn't an issue because both engine and hoses moves as one piece, so there's no rubbing on the hoses. However I do appreciate your concern.


Now, about bracket mod. It works!! Did long 800 mile trip to some sort of drag strip. Two days of beating the car, countless reving up to 7500 rpm and 14 psi of boost. Belt wear was unnoticeable. Then I removed driver side bracket. The belt lasted exactly two 7500 rpm revs. It broke at third attempt.

There's one downside too. When hot, blower bearings vibrations are transferred to the car chassis through bracket. It sounds bad on idle, like it will break apart in any second. Might be better once I rebuild blower (will do DIY soon), since there are lots of kmiles on blower already (bought it used).

 

Removed a "few" bits from my engine bay

 

^ damn...

i'm still keeping an eye on these ProCharged threads... thanks for the bracket idea! i'll keep them in mind if i ever get my SC'r installed.

1. try running the main belt to the underside of the top-center idler pulley... you will pick up more belt contact with the cogs. i've seen this done multiple times, check youtube.

2. may or may not help, pull the rubber gasket off the chassis at the backside of the hood. it will create a 1-2" gap, helping hot air exit when stationary and i'm pretty sure it creates a backwards draft when moving, basically sucking the hottest air out from under the hood! i've been running my stock setup like this for years, no overheating issues when beating on her.

 

Oh, it seems this thread finally needs an update . Thanks for heads up on ProCharger but since then, a lot's of things happened on this project in the last couple of months.























And how it sounds today

 

Well hell, I was going to ask if you would send me a better picture of the Supercharger bracket braces but it looks like you ended up going a different route. Im only asking because I'm currently deployed and cant look at the bracket for my self to see where its possible to tap and mount to the motor.

 

Looking good tcode, hope that turbine housing is a big one, since it looks like the engine will be up to the task.

Good luck with the rest of the build, and post the numbers once it is all complete.

 

I'll look for you better pics of brackets. Quite sure having them somewhere.

Edit: found it . Not pretty, but effective.
https://www.dropbox.com/s/tg6tqoxr3i...2019.27.37.jpg

Sasha, turbine housing is still A/R 0,68. I like smooth off boost to on boost transition with it, but I will probably try bigger housing in the future. The engine is built to handle big power indeed.

Overall, so far I'm very happy with your turbo kit. Thank you!

 

Thanks!

 

Whp number guessing welcomed.

 

Nice!

 

Thank you Sir!

 

wow, that looks like fun!

 

[IMG][/IMG]

 

Nice! sorry I posted my pic in the wrong post don't know how to delete.

 

Doesn't matter man, your bracket looks good! How does it perform?


Btw. here's my last dyno pull in 5th gear

 

Holly crap 8k redline...thats going to crazy.

 

Update..

finally finished tuning on dyno. Boost is set to 25 PSI and I'm definitely hitting limit of this small A/R 0.68 exhaust housing. Already ordered bigger one , it should be delivered soon.





Also, was fighting strange fuel starvation on low load (high vacuum) and low to mid rpms for a loooong time. No matter what I tried through tuning, and I really tried everything, I always had a 4-5 lean spots where engine hesitates and misfires.

Then I found out that high flow injectors can do that wired things causing fuel pressure pulsations in fuel rails. There are on the market high flow fuel rails with integrated fuel pressure pulsation dampers (CJM), but didn't feel comfortable spending $500 for such a basic and simple objects.

Instead, I went through small DIY project. Bought cheap http://www.ebay.com/itm/Aluminum-High-Flow-Fuel-Injector-Inject-Rail-FOR-350Z-G35-VQ35-VQ35DE-Z33-V35-RD-/271635413192?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&fits=Model%3A350Z&hash=item3f3ebb78c8&vxp=mtrhigh flow aluminium fuel rails, and two http://www.ebay.com/itm/Auto-7-401-0012-Fuel-Pressure-Damper-/171457490464?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&fits=Make%3AHyundai&hash=item27eba9ae20&vxp=mtr "bolt" style with thread.

Soon got them:


and the rest seemed easy, drill rails, make threads for FPD's


assembly


make fuel lines, put rails on the motor


Then I realized that lower intake plenum does not fit . There are not enough clearance between rails and it. After a while, managed to get clearance by grinding lower intake manifold, luckily there were a plenty of material to do it.


Once everything assembled, got it running again. I have lost 4 of 5 lean spots and that one remained isn't so bad, lambda goes up to 1.05 which is close enough to 1 and motor do not hesitate because of that. Adding two additional FPD's between 2nd and 3rd injector should probably fix this too.

 

Very cool turbocharged installation and good figures on the dyno. I have some questions on the past sc installation, i have sent you a private message.

 

Thanks man! PM replied.