What you recomend for engine rebuild 600+
What connecting rods
What pistons
My budget is 2k for everything so not much
I thought about eagle rods and woseco pistons but I have hard that quality of eagles get dramaticly down

 

Are you doing the assembly and machine work yourself?

If not $2k is not enough. My motor build was a bit more than twice that. And I have stock heads and cams, just reconditioned. My bottom end is just a basic rods/pistons build. With new bearings, pumps, arp bolts etc.

 

This 2k is on parts only
I plane to buy:
HR Arps
ACL Rod Bearing Set
ACL Main Bearing
ACL Thrust Washers
But I dont know what rods should I take: eagle, manley, brian or invest more and take carrillo or pauter definitly i dont won spend more than 1k any recommendation?

 

I went with eagle rods and wiseco pistons in my bottom end build.

 

I believe any forged rods should be ok: eagle,BC,Carrillo,Manley,etc. Im assuming you have the other supporting mods in consideration for 2k correct? Ems,injectors,clutch/fly,fuel,etc?

 

This is all you will need. $1,800

http://www.z1motorsports.com/350_g35...oducts_id=4266

Kit Includes:

Wiseco Pistons
Piston Ring set
Wrist pins
Eagle Rods with caps or optional Super A Carrillo Rods
Nissan OEM Gasket kit (Optional Cometic Head Gaskets)
ACL Engine Bearings (Rods, Mains, Thrust)
ARP Head And Main Stud Kits (L19 Head Studs Optional)
Z1 Viton Valve Seals

 

I am very sorry, this is not enough.

ARP L19s

Eagle & CP Pistons 8.8:1 @ .020 over at a minimum, I'd recommend Manley Rods though for 600whp.

ARP main studs

Dynosty Billet Girdle going over 500 whp on stock sleeves

Tomei or Dynosty Head Gasket Kit

ACL Bearings, Rod & Main

OEM Rev-UP Oil Pump Brand New

Viton Valve Seals

Oil Pan or Spacer

Lower Temp Thermostat

ATI Super Dampner

Rear Cooling Mod over 500whp

You'll really wish you had cams and headwork to get to 600.
Tomei 272 cams
Tomei Valvsprings
Ferrea Retainers
Viton Valve Seals

Machine Shop Work to go .020 on the block, clean passages
replace strainers with new
Machine Work for the heads

This is a realistic 600whp block

Not to mention larger radiator, a turbo kit to support it, 1000cc ID Injectors, dual walbro 485 pumps, fuel return setup, clutch and flywheel, very well wrapped clutch lines, Haltech or like EMS, Cosworth Intake Manifold, Oil Catch Can.

I hate to say it but anything less than 10K is an unrealistic dream.

 

Thanks a lot!
Most of things from your list I have. I was run 500hp on stock internals almost one year but few months ago I destroyed engine on cylinder six, rod dosnt hold on so now I bought new one and I want at least slave short block for 600hp.

So manley not eagle
What about pistons - CP or Wiseco ? Any experience
I have Halteh platinium so should I buy map sensor as well?
I know that ARPS 19 would be the best but my budget is limited and I have to cut spendings so what about HR ARPs up to 600 should be ok?

 

^^ ya that's more like it....he knows / has personal experiences on that kind of power. Everyone would have 600+ if it was only 2k. And mi35, you say the rear cooling referring to the pathfinder cooling mod correct??

 

that is affirmative, pathfinder mod, if you plan on tracking, running the car hard in anyway.

Manley will hold 600+ all day long, although Eagle in my book will hold them you may have to send a defective rod back here and there. The quality control at Manley is much better. I rec'd 5 good rods and sent one back to eagle when they were brand new. Now I am planning on Carillo pro H beam which are 1800 themselves.

CP pistons are simply the best in my opinion for not much increase in pricing. Lower Silicon content and a very quiet piston with no worries ever on quality.

I have the Haltech Pro Platinum with Dual WB, Aftermarket MAF housing came with my turbo kit. I run a factory MAF sensor (basically just for temp) the unit has a 5 bar map built in.

ARP L19s are not optional at this power level. If you want 600 WHP this is a necessity. HR ARP, ARP, all the others just wont hold this amount of head pressure for long periods of time. If your goal is to make this number and then run around at 450-500 all day go for something cheaper. But a true 600 and 625, 630, 650 etc etc what everyone does it creep up on this number and you are at the breaking point for so many parts at this time. Last thing you want to do is take 10K you spent building a motor and destroy it (like I did racing) Because you skimped out on one part. I tried to push factory heads WAY to far and am paying for it now.

 

Ok I found such offer on ebay:
http://www.ebay.com/itm/CP-Forged-Pistons-Manley-Rods-Nissan-350Z-G35-Altima-Z33-VQ35DE-8-5-1-95-5mm-/290580830149?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&fits=Model%3A350Z&hash=item43a7f797c5&vxp=mtr
Manley rods with CP pistons for 1.3k but the pistons are 8.5:1 not as you sugested 8.8:1
I would like to avoid machin work and keep it in nominal 95.5
Anyway you helped me a lot
I will invest in ARPs L19 but to daily driving I will reduce boost to 8 psi I plane use higher boost only to drift competition or track use

 

Did you motor blow or are you using a clean core?

If the motor blew then chances are metal shaving cut into the bore and they would need to be fixed, leading to my recommendation of .020 over.

8.5 is perfectly fine on the compression.

if you are using a clean core, something that hasn't blown I would still recommend a low material removal hone to clean up the bore so the new piston rings have something to seat into, otherwise you'll end up with excessive blow-by and a loss in compression.

 

Thanks for the response's and Good info MI. I am starting to gather parts for my build.

Chris

 

I bought a "new" engine not damaged yet so I will clean cilinders but I will stay with 95.5
And what you thing about BC H rods I have heard that they produce them in china like eagle and manley but in case of BC the final quality check is done in US, any experience with brian crrower.

 

I don't have any experience with BC, I have heard they are produced in China along with Eagle. But the Manleys are made right here in Lakewood, NJ. All the QC is done stateside I believe for all of the rods, because the Eagle when there were problems they were handled stateside.

 

Ok so I will go with cp pistons and bc rods do I have to exchange camshaft on 272 or OEM cams will be fine for 600 hp

 

I know when I build my engine I am going to build it for 650. Will I make that with the momentum. No but my engine will be able to hold the power.

I feel with the cams is if your in there why not change from oem? If your not touching the top end then leave them and see what she's does.

Just my nickel.

Chris

 

Ya I hear our stock heads are good to 600ish. But idk 100%.

 

If you get a big enough turbo and willing to stick to stock rev limit, you won't need a cam upgrade. 272 cams will buy you more power with less boost and you can build the valvetrain for higher rpms. Your choice.

 

I would like to increase rpm limiter to 7000 but I thought that for this is enought to change springs for stiffer?