Bpb713

iTrader: (2)

Okay.Let me start off by saying I suck at telling stories so sorry if it bores you. Plus I'm doing this on my phone meaning my Grammer will most likely be horrible lol.
As a few of you may Already know, I used to have a Vortech V3 with 2.87 pulley. Well I ended up crushing my ring lands so bye bye bottom end. I was using RC 440CC injectors and they were 100% duty cycle so I'm sure they played a big role in destroying the pistons. I wasn't real upset about this bc I was already getting ready for a build anyway, just happened a few months earlier than I wanted lol. So tore engine down. Everything looked great, well besides the pistons anyway (all 6 had cracked/busted ringlands) to my surprise my cylinder walls looked perfect. Everything was still intact so I decided to rebuild using my same block. Machine shop miked vatted and honed the block. Didn't even need to do a bore. So since I'm already ***** deep into this car I decided that I'd rather have turbos. Sold my vortech to a guy on here (hope you're enjoying it) and purchased a full Greddy TT 18g kit w Greddy FMIC HKS bov, Greddy profec 2 controller and Geddy t timer off of my buddies car. His plans were to put back stock and sale. Anyway the kit had 1 bad turbo, which was fine bc I had intentions of having BNR supercars build me some beast 20Gs from scratch. Well they ended up decided against building from scratch bc they got some new cartridges in so they upgrade mine to 20Gs. Supposedly more efficient than the stock greddy 20gs and best of all, will spool as quickly as 18g. We will soon find out how true this is. Also add water cooling to the turbos as well. Well that's the gist of the turbo setup. Also went ahead a got some AAM 3"DPs and open dumps. Hope they aren't too loud :/. I have the somewhat rare Greddy TI-C dual 3" catback. So now I have 3" from turbo back. Considering deleting my greddy resonators with hopes of hearing much more turbo spool (like the sts kit)

So as for my engine. Eagle rods. JE 8.5:1 Pistons (wrist pins seemed to be a weak point with these pistons around 650whp, so I went ahead and purchased some pretty pricey upgraded ones from JE). All ACL race bearings. ARP L19 heads, arp mains, rods also came with arps. Cometic head gasket. REVUP pump. Also had rotating assembly balanced.. I wanted to do head work but as of right now that's not gonna happen. Spent my head money on built turbos.. not much internals but there's actually a lot of money in there. Lol it adds up quick!

Okay as for fuel and tuning. I have an APS twin pump assembly and a complete AAM fuel return system with the billet rails. Yes I had to pretty much run all new SS line since I'm using the APS pump. It's a beast setup. I'll show pics once complete. It looks amazing. Anyway, all that fuel gonna be squirting thru my Injector Dynamics 1000cc. Purchased them new on here new from moddiction for only 535 shipped!!. I'm already tuned with Osirus from back when i had the SC. Also have UPREV GT MAF. For now I plan to stick w Osirus but if money is right towards the end, I will pick up a haltech.

Using spec SS Trim Twin Disk clutch. Lol hope it holds bc I'm shooting for the starts. Taking whatever she'll give me.
,. I'm sure I'm leaving lots of stuff out. I will edit this as I go and try to make it more interesting for readers. But that's the gist of the build so far. I'm just now in the process of putting everything back together from scratch so I will have lots of pics to show along the way. Hoping to be up and rolling this spring. Time is a very precious thing for me. I never have enough of it between work and 2 and 5 yr olds. So this will take a little longer than a shop to put back together lol.

RUNWDVL

iTrader: (10)

TLDR...

On a serious note, good luck. Post pics of progress.

Bpb713

iTrader: (2)

PS this is NOT just another dreamer thread. Everything mentioned and MUCH more has already been purchased. Still waiting on my internals to get back from Prater automotive. They are doing my balancing and BNR takes their sweet time when building turbos. But that's totally cool with me should have them back in a few weeks

taywan

iTrader: (53)

In for the outcome on this build. GL

djamps

iTrader: (1)

In for the blow up! Just kidding... but one of the things that keeps me from building rather than beating the crap out of stock blocks is the reliability factor of the engine once it's cracked open. Whose building the engine if I can ask? Seems not too many engine builders are capable of putting out reliable VQs. Not trying to rain on your parade but you seem really happy about this build -- always be prepared for failure.

Bpb713

iTrader: (2)

I will be building the engine myself. I've built many engines and so far have had success. I don't understand everyone's fear of building a vq.

str8dum1

iTrader: (11)

as long as you are meticulous, can follow specs, and have the proper tools, its not rocket science.

djamps

iTrader: (1)

That's awesome. Wish I had the time/skills to do it myself.

My 2c....Based on over a dozen UOA's I've done, stock DE's bearings wear *considerably* with anything over 350wtq or so... just a few pulls at 400wtq is clearly evident in my samples. When I dial it down to 350wtq it's near stock wear levels (as evident on my 130kmi Z which never saw over 6 lbs or so). apparently VQ's have very tight tolerances from the factory and 'factory' specs may need to be loosened considerably for pretty much any boost level in order to keep bearing wear from getting too high -- even typical 'stock block boost' levels. plan accordingly!

I think half the problems people face is just crappy machine work... the other half is improper clearances for said power levels.

Boosted Performance

iTrader: (14)

Didn't you experiment with different oils and found that some of them greatly reduce bearing ware at higher TQ levels. I thought it was Rotella T6 synthetic or something like that...

djamps

iTrader: (1)

I tried a few different oils and weights but nothing made much of a difference...thought my engine was just on its way out.

So I ran a whole oil change at lower boost levels (360wtq vs 400wtq) including the same amount of drag racing, and the wear dropped back to stock levels. Bear in mind there was no considerable pinging in either case, in fact I always run 100+ octane at the track just to be sure.

djamps

iTrader: (1)

To be clear, the extra wear was most likely bearing material (LEAD) - 6x increase with just a 30-40wtq increase. All other elements remained normal. After 400wtq, I'd be afraid to know how much wear is taking place, it seems almost exponential.

evilscorp

In for this one! Looking to do the same but with out the ott fuel system and sticking with my vortech.
Post up what tolerances you use if you don't mind as there's not many threads on the subject other than people using top tolerances Nissan give like 0.0028 for the big ends.
What oil do you use now?

djamps

iTrader: (1)

I'm no expert... but that based my analysis for anything over 8psi you probably want to go looser than that and use a heavier oil as well. For now I've settled down with M1 0w40 on my stock motors for the lowest wear. There may be better choices, but this is the best I've found that's available 'over the counter' at most auto parts stores, and still gives same or better results than Motul and some other more exotic oils I've tried in the past.

taywan

iTrader: (53)

There is so much up/down w mobile 1 royal purple etc. I just stick w Amsoil for any misunderstandings.