Engine Build
Hey guys,
I wanted to avoid making a new thread on this because I'm sure its been discussed. Since I was unable to find any threads discussing this specifically I have no choice but to see if I can get a few opinions.
Basically I want to rebuild my VQ35DE. I want to make power through or very close to redline. I want to push the limit to 8k. I already have a powerlab kit with a gt35r. I also have the Exedy NF04 flywheel with a southbend clutch. This is mostly staying as-is, besides the larger 1.06 turbine housing sitting in my garage. I also have an HPX MAF. I want to use Uprev(local tuner suggestion) to replace the UTEC I am currently running. I plan on using BC springs and stage 3 cams for head mods. I was going to use the stock valves if they are in good shape, otherwise I'll purchase new valves that are stock size.
I would like to use the Z1 engine rebuild kit. Wiseco pistons(find size when I get the block apart) with 8.8 CR, Carillo Super A rods, ARP L19 head studs, Cometic gaskets. I was also going to purchase a Rev-up oil pump. From what I have read on here that is much more reliable than the DE pump at higher RPM. I also plan on getting an ATI super damper for more reliability at higher RPM. If necessary, I will purchase a fuel system upgrade to get the return style in place.
I assume I'll either max my turbo and/or injectors at 15psi. If I max the injectors I will purchase larger ones.
I plan on having everything professionally cleaned and the block bore/honed. I will have the rotating assembly balanced by a professional and I will have the car tuned at JMS racing here in SA. I'm not chasing a number because that really isn't important to me. I want more power and I plan on keeping the turbo I have since it still works. I want to be reliable and rev to 8k rpm. I may have missed a few things but I think that just about covers the build.
What I want to know is what I'm missing from my build to have the engine reliable while making that power and revving to 8k RPM. Am I including unnecessary items? Do I need to upgrade the cooling system? Any suggestions?
EDIT - Currently using 600cc injectors, plenum spacer, hallman MBC(replacing with turbosmart eboost street), strup headers, and AAM 3inch catback.
I wanted to avoid making a new thread on this because I'm sure its been discussed. Since I was unable to find any threads discussing this specifically I have no choice but to see if I can get a few opinions.
Basically I want to rebuild my VQ35DE. I want to make power through or very close to redline. I want to push the limit to 8k. I already have a powerlab kit with a gt35r. I also have the Exedy NF04 flywheel with a southbend clutch. This is mostly staying as-is, besides the larger 1.06 turbine housing sitting in my garage. I also have an HPX MAF. I want to use Uprev(local tuner suggestion) to replace the UTEC I am currently running. I plan on using BC springs and stage 3 cams for head mods. I was going to use the stock valves if they are in good shape, otherwise I'll purchase new valves that are stock size.
I would like to use the Z1 engine rebuild kit. Wiseco pistons(find size when I get the block apart) with 8.8 CR, Carillo Super A rods, ARP L19 head studs, Cometic gaskets. I was also going to purchase a Rev-up oil pump. From what I have read on here that is much more reliable than the DE pump at higher RPM. I also plan on getting an ATI super damper for more reliability at higher RPM. If necessary, I will purchase a fuel system upgrade to get the return style in place.
I assume I'll either max my turbo and/or injectors at 15psi. If I max the injectors I will purchase larger ones.
I plan on having everything professionally cleaned and the block bore/honed. I will have the rotating assembly balanced by a professional and I will have the car tuned at JMS racing here in SA. I'm not chasing a number because that really isn't important to me. I want more power and I plan on keeping the turbo I have since it still works. I want to be reliable and rev to 8k rpm. I may have missed a few things but I think that just about covers the build.
What I want to know is what I'm missing from my build to have the engine reliable while making that power and revving to 8k RPM. Am I including unnecessary items? Do I need to upgrade the cooling system? Any suggestions?
EDIT - Currently using 600cc injectors, plenum spacer, hallman MBC(replacing with turbosmart eboost street), strup headers, and AAM 3inch catback.
Last edited by woody03; Feb 15, 2015 at 09:12 PM.
I knew I would forget something. Right now I have deatschwerks 600cc and I am going to use 93 octane since TX still sells that stuff. I haven't seen much about meth injection on here but I might get a kit for that as well. At 15 psi on the 35R it would offer a bit more insurance.
I've read a little about people liking fluidampr http://www.fluidampr.com/product/640901/ over ati's.
But it seems like your cams, springs, Oil Pump, and Getting it balanced will all alow you to rev that high, but you may need to get a plenum spacer or cosworth plenum to actually make power up that high.
If you are pushing close to 600whp you will max out those injectors, get a big fmic to help keep your AIT's down.
But it seems like your cams, springs, Oil Pump, and Getting it balanced will all alow you to rev that high, but you may need to get a plenum spacer or cosworth plenum to actually make power up that high.
If you are pushing close to 600whp you will max out those injectors, get a big fmic to help keep your AIT's down.
I forgot to mention I have a plenum spacer. Its been in for a few years now. That was the first mod I did actually. I'm not sure where I would find a bigger intercooler, but that is something I could look into. I would imagine for the for cost(or close to) of a bigger intercooler, I could just install a meth injection kit which would serve the same purpose? 600whp would be absolutely awesome, and to be honest I wouldn't want any more than that for awhile. I'm going to look into both of the crank pulleys. I haven't heard of the fluidampr so thats helpful for sure.
http://www.treadstoneperformance.com...cooler++1000HP
I think this is what Oldmanz350 has in his car and he currently has the fastest stock block Z.
I imagine you could just go with water meth and have cooler iats and a higher oct level for more timing and power.
I think this is what Oldmanz350 has in his car and he currently has the fastest stock block Z.
I imagine you could just go with water meth and have cooler iats and a higher oct level for more timing and power.
Thats what I'm thinking. That is slightly larger than the intercooler provided in the powerlab kit but its also close to the same cost as a meth injection kit. I think the meth injection would work as well if not better than the 100 extra cubic inches in the bigger intercooler.
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Look into a return fuel system along with the larger injectors, add an oil cooler, add a catch can...Either the ATI or Fluidyne is an improvement and a move in the right direction. I don't know if this is common knowledge or not but look into copper spray sealant and spray your head gaskets before you install them.
I forgot to mention the catch can. I do plan on getting one installed before I even start tearing stuff down. I wasn't sure if an oil cooler would be necessary since I'm mostly just driving around town and hitting the 1/4 some weekends. I plan on going with the CJM stage 2 setup. That should easily support my power goals and since I don't plan on running E85 I should be ok there. If I max these injectors I'll definitely have to get some larger ones but I was hoping to get away with keeping these. I have used the copper spray before but I hadn't actually thought about it for this build.
I'm using the Fluidampr and a Setrab oil cooler.
I would definitely get the girdle if you going to go up 8K rpm.
I recently changed out to 8.5 CP pistons before I was using Wiseco 8.8.
Oil temps have been on point and oil pressure also.
I would definitely get the girdle if you going to go up 8K rpm.
I recently changed out to 8.5 CP pistons before I was using Wiseco 8.8.
Oil temps have been on point and oil pressure also.
I'll have to look into the oil cooler a bit more. I need to find somewhere to mount one and not block the intercooler too much. Why did you change from 8.8 to 8.5?
I think you'd be a fool not to run an oil cooler...$200 to drop your oil temp 25* with zero moving parts...I run a single right now and have the capacity to run three of them.
a wise man (ok, not that wise) said - engine coolant cools your block - the radiator cools your coolant, oil cools your internals...what's cooling your oil?
my main oil cooler is MAYBE 1 square foot...it sits 12" drivers-side of my IC...my oil cooler before this sat after my IC and before my radiator...there are easily 4 places to put and oil cooler that would have zero interference with your intercooler...
a wise man (ok, not that wise) said - engine coolant cools your block - the radiator cools your coolant, oil cools your internals...what's cooling your oil?
my main oil cooler is MAYBE 1 square foot...it sits 12" drivers-side of my IC...my oil cooler before this sat after my IC and before my radiator...there are easily 4 places to put and oil cooler that would have zero interference with your intercooler...
Last edited by bealljk; Feb 16, 2015 at 11:47 PM.
I thought about putting it behind the intercooler, but that isn't very efficient. Sure its better than nothing but I'd rather have it in clean air. I think I can mount somewhere off to either side and still have it work. I'm not sure where you found one for 200 though. Even piecing together a kit I end up with ~300. Thats using stainless braided hoses and mostly mishimoto stuff.
Very nice. I don't have the crash bar anymore but I see there is room to add one. Ill have to find a bracket but that shouldn't be too hard. Are both of those oil coolers?
The one on the driver side is the power steering cooler I took out the OEM one
Don't mind the cable routing I already fixed that







