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remember, evans cannot be run with any old coolant remaining in the block. draining the entire block is a huge PITA if its not new or out of the car. They might offer a pre-flush, but i tend to remember that was Super expensive as well.
ARP2000 headbolts and 600+ WHP are definitely no no.
Pulled heads and at first look head gasket looked normal. It's a three layer, so I removed one of the cover layers..
As you can clearly see, once head lifted a bit, pressure from cylinder literally pushed away aluminium ring in the center of the headgasket, deformed it at it leaks badly after that.
ARP2000 headbolts and 600+ WHP are definitely no no.
Pulled heads and at first look head gasket looked normal. It's a three layer, so I removed one of the cover layers..
As you can clearly see, once head lifted a bit, pressure from cylinder literally pushed away aluminium ring in the center of the headgasket, deformed it at it leaks badly after that.
Well to be fair what torque spec did you use? That's really what will be the important factor here
If the ARP 2000's can hold the 80 lbs used, I don't really see the heads lifting... But I'm not sure if that's a safe spec for them. I did my L19's to the mid 90's. Pretty close in spec at that point to 80's, and I know the l19's are quite a bit stronger
head lift was a super common problem around these parts when everyone was building with the ARP2000 studs. like, everyone who built in 03/04.
Everyone was chasing witchcraft and voodoo, trying anything and everything... blaming it on "boiling coolant". That is when the pathfinder cooling mod was born, and guys were even putting studs in the cooling jackets of the heads to push down on the thinner area between cylinders.
Everyone started doing half-inch headstuds at 95+, problem never came back. L19 then replaced the half-inch since it didnt require machining the block.
Oh wow, I asked the question and completely missed that he was NOT using L19s. Not sure why anyone would deviate from a proven part. J. Kenefic had success with TTY HR bolts and HR headgasket to ~650 whp and then that failed too. L19 is the way to go.
Oh wow, I asked the question and completely missed that he was NOT using L19s. Not sure why anyone would deviate from a proven part. J. Kenefic had success with TTY HR bolts and HR headgasket to ~650 whp and then that failed too. L19 is the way to go.
Yeah… when I was putting my car back together I couldn’t find any L19’s in stock, I figured the car would be ok with 2000’s since I was just shooting for low 500’s (Intense was running 2000’s too so I figured I’d be ok)…
I’ve put about 12k miles on this motor so far, switched over to E85 about 4k miles ago… the car was making about 550whp on 15 psi or so.
Last edited by thatv35guy; May 6, 2015 at 01:53 PM.
Do you have an Ethanol content gauge in the car? Wonder if there was a bad tank of gas. Or perhaps some nasty knock due to localized cooling issues with the headgaskets leaking? Hard to say until its all torn down.
Do you have an Ethanol content gauge in the car? Wonder if there was a bad tank of gas. Or perhaps some nasty knock due to localized cooling issues with the headgaskets leaking? Hard to say until its all torn down.
RIP short block
Yeah, I'm running ProEFI flex fuel and have an ethanol content gauge connected. I was thinking it might have been caused by pre-ignition?
Probably at least created a hot spot. Go rent a nice scope. If you know any military people, they usually have access to some crazy ones. Don't just yank the whole whole thing out immediately.
Probably at least created a hot spot. Go rent a nice scope. If you know any military people, they usually have access to some crazy ones. Don't just yank the whole whole thing out immediately.
Overnight-ed a scope from Amazon to perform a quick check of the combustion chambers, here are the first three I scoped:
Can you bend it in a way to get 360 view of the top edges of the piston? Thats where I would look for signs of damage that can cause a problem. Although I have seen pistons cracked at the ring lands which wouldn't be visible from above. I havent blown an engine in my life, and I havent torn down a blown one in 10 years... so I am not the best person to look for signs of damage.
On vid 3 the shiny spot in the middle of the carbon build up is a little weird to be perfectly honest. Could be from a plug...
Doesn't look too bad though. I reccomend getting like a wooden bbq skewer, and duct taping the cam to the tip of it at a 45-60* angle... Do it right and it will force its way down the spark plug hole and then give you some angle to take a look at the walls. You can increase the view angle by pushing the camera down on the piston top and that will bend it sort of more towards a 90. That would be probably the most important thing to look for... Scoring on the walls.
Last edited by Resmarted; Jul 25, 2015 at 04:43 AM.
WTF dude.
