i think your fuel pump grommet is damaged.

 

Someone else mentioned that too. I may pull the basket soon and check it all out.

Here is a video of the fuel pressure regulator when the motor is hesitating.

This is at WOT.

 

Problem #1: -car is tuned on uprev

Problem #2: -uprev GT maf has been cleaned (a few times)


Unless you know your way around uprev and have the cable...uprev is a joke for a DIY'er when it comes to getting tuned from a shop. You might as well have a locked HKs FCON. You're blind to everything your ECU is seeing.

Where is the alignment pin holes on the jwt? Should have 2. do they not go all the way through? (they did on my OS Giken and ATS Across dual clutches). If you are off on the pin..your timing is off.


As far as vac leaks...take your kit off and start inspecting the couplers and joints where used.

Mafs have failed. They are combo air meters and air intake take sensors. May try swapping in a different maf.

 

He found issue. Was a blown weld on on kinetix manifold.

 

Awesome!

 

But but but...kintex SSV is the manifold that god would run if he had a VQ35de.


makes sense, kinetix is known to blow welds under boost and since you were at the drag strip. Your initial instincts proved right...vac leak.

Get a MAP sensor and tune that way and your car would have been GTG.

Did you say it was pegging lean on the WB? Thats odd..normally a vac leak post maf makes you get rich and idle rough.

 

Yep like josh said



Underside of the manifold. Having it welded up and braced. If I ever have the car retuned it will go to haltech. But for the last 2 years boosted and road racing uprev has done me just fine 👌🏽.

 

Ps there is no issue cleaning a uprev gt maf have done it many many times in the past w zero issues.

 

Under WOT. Would go full rich. Idling on cold starts it would lean out and die.

 

Ye-haaaaa.........

 

Who was the last to own this 350z and who pulled the motor out I now own what's left of this car and trying to figure out what motor is now in it

 

 

does he still sell this kit?

 

wrong thread delete

 

Here to solve the problem guys!

 

I did the active test and found my relay kicking on and then tested 12 volts coming to each plug to each fan however my fans were not working...i even swapped the top and middle relay as they are the same....i did this to make sure and yep relay was fine...

I replaced my fans using these steps but at step 11 (jacking up the car) - i jacked up the left side (passenger side) of the car ONLY and left the car tilted like that......this allowed me to disconnect the upper radiator hose from the radiator with zero spillage due to the angle an pitch...

the entire replacement took me under 30 minutes. was a quick fun job.

thanks for your DIY.
-J