RC Dash was definitely talking about traction control via ecu... Like in the case of Haltech Wheel Speed modulation... Pulling timing... ETC. Rather than the crap OEM pulls. Like shutting your throttle body or having the rear brakes stab at the wheels. Both of those can cause serious instability in the car, especially with high power. One of the worst things you can do when a car is getting really squirly is take your foot off the gas completely. You need to roll in, and roll out. Harder to do than it sounds.

And how the car is setup is a huge impact on how the car hooks up. Smaller turbos are harder to ramp in more slowly. With the right tune, right turbos+cam, right wastegate settings, the car can ramp into power while still spinning, but get down the road much quicker. Judging by the fact that Hal tuned RC's car, and well, he's very good at setting up the car to hook, it's not surprising that he can hook with more normal street tires. Hal is quite a driver. I think that's why he's been so good at setting up cars. He's set several records for the 1320 on several different platforms.

 

I was thinking the same thing after I looked through his thread.

He's got boost ramp coming in later. Wouldn't doubt if he's got lower psi settings in lower gears as well. I was running GT2860rs turbos and those sons of b1tches came in like a bat out of hell even at 3k rpms. I was able to get pretty good at easing in to the throttle in 3rd. 2nd and 1st were still basically useless.

 

Cool cheers for great info. Great news, I thought I had to order upgraded heads for 600WHP. Awsome so pistons, rods and all other stuff mentioned. Will get the ARP studs just in case to strengthen block.


The brake pumping on the street is abit worrying though. It will be a nuisance and dangerous to drive like that. I'm a street driver, no track or drifting. How exactly will the braking be effected ?


cheers

 

Haven't driven a vq35 with bc stage 3's so I can't tell you for sure.


You could simply go with 264's and they will be better on the street. The 272's are a bit aggressive for the street. The bc's have more lift than any other drop in cam.
Hal's 350z ran the 272 cam on stock heads:

 

Great thx for posting. got 2 questions:


a. So with the 264's I can configure engine to rev at 8k ?
b. I checked the 264's specs and I saw that I can use stock valve springs. Can I use stock valve springs with BC 264's @ 8k rpm and at 600 WHP without blowing the engine ? Or should I upgrade valve springs for a safer build?


Cheers

 

Upgrade springs so you dont get float.

 

thx

 

264's will probably drop off power well before 8k.

272's can REV to 8k but make peak before then. So 264's will be closer to 7,000rpm peak

So you might be able to rev there, but it will probably not make you a lot of power.

 

I went with 280. Looking for an 8500 redline.

Gonna be reeallll interesting how it pans out

 

omg thats awsome 280 it is then. What cams go with the 280's. What brand/model would you reccomend for cams and springs?

Cheers

 

Thing about that is, itll push your power band up. So the power will be really up in the RPMs, versus lower.

When they say "not good for the street" I understand what they mean now with my last build, because you could be on the gas for a few seconds and you're already in triple digits. It's basically useless because your already at dangerous speeds for the street in a matter of moments.

I need those cams to stretch that RPM out and make every bit of power at +1kwhp.

For a more conservative build, I would do 264 or 272s. That will allow good gains and good street usability.

The other thing is you will need upgraded springs, and maybe even pistons, to clear the valve relief, because 280 cams have more lift than the 272 or 264s. I think the magic number is 11mm lift for stock springs/pistons and the 280 hits 11.3 on the intake side.

if you arent building I would do 272 with the 11 and under lift options or the 264s.



edit: Scrap that post, I see your building the motor anyways.

Well, it's up to you. More conservative 600whp build I'd do something smaller than 280 though.

 

Yeah at that power and high rpm, 1st or 2nd gear it will be impossible to keep the car steady in corners without having to chill a little on the gas. My aim preferably would be to have the car steady on 3rd gear when cornering at about 110-160kph. Currently at max revs 7k the car can reach around 140k on 3rd gear. Would be nice to have that high acceleration on 3rd gear and get to 160kph. Also for straight pulls having that extra power on high revs will gain on acceleration. I want to be able to eat GTR's on rolling starts


Anyone can comment on how the car responds to 600WHP on 3rd gear in corners between 4.5 and 8.5k rpm ? Is it driveable with good tyres and maybe wider rear wheels?

 

and at 8.5k rpm the car will be screaming with aggressiveness <3 funfunfun

 

It's not good for the street because it surges at low rpm, doesn't give enough vaccum for brake booster, has idling issues (causing you to idle higher, burn more fuel), really doggy down low. A 280 could be really bad on the street. Several big names don't recommend anything more than 272 for a street car. Hal, SP racing etc. Basically the shops that set the records for power and 1/4 mile. Especially with lower compression and big turbo for over 1000hp, it's not going to be a lot of fun on the street. Especially with the wheelspin.

But hey your car. Just be aware, that it's more than just being "peaky"

 

Yeah, I've looked into it all, been advised by a few people. The choice hasnt been easy. But I'm also not going low compression or big single turbo for that very reason of being a turd down low.

 

Hey man, you do whatever you want to do! Just having learned it all, I just want to put it out there.

It would suck to do all that, get the car finally running and be driving it out on the street like "WTF"

272's and even stock heads can flow plenty. Some cnc+valve work, and you've got more than enough.

 

Actually thought I'd come back here and update, I spoke with my tuner and a few other people. Decided to exchanged for Tomei 272s. They still have the cam lift of the Tomei 280s, but push the power band a little lower, but Id still like a good 8k redline atleast.

Also decided not to port the heads at all, do to the fact they already flow really well.



Another thing talking with my tuner, extremely knowledgeable, he advised me that there is no "cons" for lower rpm's with these cars on 280s. Being we are DOHC and not a single like the LS guys (where there could be issues), there would be no issues with idle or etc. Its just a matter of matching the cams best with the turbos and setup.


I'm still waiting to hear back from my vendor, but Im looking forward to the 272s. Weve got another Nismo using them, has a really good sounding idle, great power band red lining around 8300.



As for the OP, I'd contact a tuner or a builder and discuss your goals and have them suggest what cams to go with.

 

I'm curious who is this person who said the 280's have no issue? They only have 11mm lift so that may be why.

 

272's good idle and 8300 redline sounds awesome. What cams were the 272's Tomei ? With these cams would 8300rpm be achievable on my VQ35DE '06 rev-up with this package: http://www.importpartspro.com/st1blon.html and my current stock heads ?


Cheers

 

One of the most knowledgeable guys I know. Been around a good bit, managed 2 well-known VQ/VR shops, built/tuned the Zs for years, he's now a GTR tuner doing +1000whp build every day around the world.

He's tuned the highest stock motor VHR, highest stock motor HR (me), some of the best porsches and GTRs in the world.



I can understand what he's saying in that the double cam operates much different than the one cam of something like an LS. So that it's tunable to have no ill-effects at idle/low rpms. I trust what he's said, he called almost everything to the T of what would happen on my first build.