350z VQ35DE Forced Induction Query
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gotama (02-20-2016)
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gotama (02-20-2016)
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gotama (02-20-2016)
02-09-2016, 02:51 AM
#25
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Thread Starter
I would if I had the cash. To get all that in Malta (Europe) would cost me an additional 30% of 15k that's almost 20k. Cant afford it presently. This year spent like 5k on basic mods, art pipes, intake, manifold.. ECU.. etc... Gonna have to take it in steps :P Next year going FI to boost my stock DE. If you still have your car/build I will definitely check our your offer next year.
02-15-2016, 09:06 AM
#26
New Member
Thread Starter
true just checked. Max 600WHP with changed pulleys. Enough power for my goal. I want a driveable car :P even though for drag it would be awesome to have 800ish. Still I prefer driving in street, so I will go for 550-600WHP.
Cheers for feedback
Cheers for feedback
02-15-2016, 09:20 AM
#27
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Thread Starter
Cheers
02-15-2016, 09:27 AM
#28
Just as a refernce, I was around 621 before I tore it down and started a new build.
it wasnt close to drivable in the "WOT" traction sense or quick "stop light to stop light."
You'd need to get your suspension right and then utilize a 15-18" wheel with some sort of MT radial. Side wall need to be 35-45, although MM08 on his mid 600 setup with 35 sidewall MT streets had decent hook up. Any tire less than that will not hook. So you'll be sacrificing corner performance with a MT DOT street/strip tire, and you'll need nothing less.
I ran a 305/30 r compound Dunlop race maxxx tire. No traction till around 70 mph and I had near fatalities a few times on on-ramps and back road WOT test.
Last edited by Nismo350z#0310; 02-15-2016 at 09:28 AM.
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gotama (02-20-2016)
02-15-2016, 10:12 AM
#29
New Member
Thread Starter
Just as a refernce, I was around 621 before I tore it down and started a new build.
it wasnt close to drivable in the "WOT" traction sense or quick "stop light to stop light."
You'd need to get your suspension right and then utilize a 15-18" wheel with some sort of MT radial. Side wall need to be 35-45, although MM08 on his mid 600 setup with 35 sidewall MT streets had decent hook up. Any tire less than that will not hook. So you'll be sacrificing corner performance with a MT DOT street/strip tire, and you'll need nothing less.
I ran a 305/30 r compound Dunlop race maxxx tire. No traction till around 70 mph and I had near fatalities a few times on on-ramps and back road WOT test.
it wasnt close to drivable in the "WOT" traction sense or quick "stop light to stop light."
You'd need to get your suspension right and then utilize a 15-18" wheel with some sort of MT radial. Side wall need to be 35-45, although MM08 on his mid 600 setup with 35 sidewall MT streets had decent hook up. Any tire less than that will not hook. So you'll be sacrificing corner performance with a MT DOT street/strip tire, and you'll need nothing less.
I ran a 305/30 r compound Dunlop race maxxx tire. No traction till around 70 mph and I had near fatalities a few times on on-ramps and back road WOT test.
Hmmmm after I obviously get upgraded suspensions, I guess it gotta be either of these 2 options because I cant look at my car if I go for those small radial wheels they look terrible imo.
a. either run a 19' street tyre wide setup and chill on the gas pedal until I shift on 3rd gear and then floor the pedal. Will take time to get used to it I guess
b. down the power abit to 500-550ish. I might be happier with lower power as in my country we don't have very long roads and on my stock Z, I didn't even max 5th gear on the longest road.
02-15-2016, 10:17 AM
#30
varying results for people, some better than others. I tried many different R compounds, R888 was the best r compound result I got, but still traction was hit or miss depending on conditions.
If you are mid 500s, Id run the R888.
If you are 600-700, Id do a more serious MT
If you are mid 500s, Id run the R888.
If you are 600-700, Id do a more serious MT
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gotama (02-20-2016)
02-15-2016, 10:56 AM
#31
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Thread Starter
varying results for people, some better than others. I tried many different R compounds, R888 was the best r compound result I got, but still traction was hit or miss depending on conditions.
If you are mid 500s, Id run the R888.
If you are 600-700, Id do a more serious MT
If you are mid 500s, Id run the R888.
If you are 600-700, Id do a more serious MT
What width front and rear can I go for with a 19" 30 setup without having fender rubbing issues ? and what wheel type is best for cornering staggered or normal wheels ?
I'm not much of a drift guy I just want good cornering traction. Sorry for the newbie questions but I don't know the difference between staggered and normal rims and how they have an effect on the wheel grip and cornering dynamics. I just want to build a fast and safe road sports car.
02-15-2016, 12:29 PM
#32
RE-11 is the best all around street tire for FI imo. Dry and wet traction is only slightly worse than the R888 under most conditions (on a hot day, a fresh set of R888s are amazing). Nothing holds really well on the street above 600 whp, but I will admit I am reluctant to try a drag only tire on the street (on the twisty country roads of NC). Been considering trying some of the Michelin racing tires...
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gotama (02-20-2016)
02-15-2016, 12:42 PM
#33
RE-11 is the best all around street tire for FI imo. Dry and wet traction is only slightly worse than the R888 under most conditions (on a hot day, a fresh set of R888s are amazing). Nothing holds really well on the street above 600 whp, but I will admit I am reluctant to try a drag only tire on the street (on the twisty country roads of NC). Been considering trying some of the Michelin racing tires...
RE-11 is a great for a low boost DE. Really anything 500 and up, street tire is a no go. I had the Yoko Advan AD08 in 305. It was mind-blowingly incredable at 300whp and cornering ability. At 500 it just spun like a mother.
Actually, here is the tire on the last dyno run as it hit 621whp around 180mph...
PSI was a little low and the tire exploded. Luckily he was able to keep it on the dyno.
I would say R888 above 500 is the OPs best bet. Much past 600, it'll need to be radials, or an R888 with a larger sidewall and somewhere around 315-325.
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gotama (02-20-2016)
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gotama (02-20-2016)
02-15-2016, 01:02 PM
#35
I can run an RE11 in gears 5 and 6 at 700 wtq without slipping. So for a pull on the highway, it does just fine and is a remarkably solid high speed tire that is also excellent on the twisties. Have had it past 170 mph on the airstrip. To say it is only for a low boost DE reflects a lack of understanding on how to safely drive a high powered car (and perhaps that is why you describe your near fatalities with certain tires?). We may be saying the same thing but I think its important for drivers to understand that engines can be built to overpower any tire and there is not inherent safety at X power level using Y tire. There are always failure points for any given combination of horsepower at the wheels and tire combination - it may be on launch, it may be in the wet, it may be in the twisties, it may be in how it wears out (that Advan tire you pictured did not fail because of traction failure!). You have to recognize those and adjust driving style accordingly. So I will state again, for street driving (at any horsepower level!), the RE11 is one of the best tires available.
Last edited by rcdash; 02-15-2016 at 01:25 PM.
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gotama (02-20-2016)
02-15-2016, 03:01 PM
#36
Traction in all of the lower gears is difficult on any tire with FI. It requires some modulation of the throttle and can be aided with some traction control assist from the ECU.
Lower gears is generalizing and obvious. But given the proper tire it can be close to a solution with the exception of 1st gear.
As for modulation, absolutely, and it also makes you slower.
Traction control, yours must function better than both my 05 or 07. My experience with this is simply to kill 70% of the engines power until you release throttle and let it reset. I experienced this when I accidentally left it on and was passed up by a Charger R/T. It was actually a funny story.
Putting a drag tire on a car for additional off the line traction also has compromises and its important to understand what you are giving up.
See my former post to the OP *thumbs up*
I can run an RE11 in gears 5 and 6 at 700 wtq without slipping. So for a pull on the highway, it does just fine and is a remarkably solid high speed tire that is also excellent on the twisties. Have had it past 170 mph on the airstrip.
Mind blowing bro. You got me there. That's definitely traction past 70mph. But then again, that's my claim per my statement. *Finger to my chin* and again we are replying to the OP about street driving and gaining traction somewhere below 100mph. Hmmm
To say it is only for a low boost DE reflects a lack of understanding on how to safely drive a high powered car (and perhaps that is why you describe your near fatalities with certain tires?). We may be saying the same thing but I think its important for drivers to understand that engines can be built to overpower any tire and there is not inherent safety at X power level using Y tire.
Odd, I'm accident free. Those near fatalities were near triple digit speed with traction and then sudden loss of traction. I'd go as far to say my understanding is the only reason I was able to regain control without regrettable events occurring.
There are always failure points for any given combination of horsepower at the wheels and tire combination - it may be on launch, it may be in the wet, it may be in the twisties, it may be in how it wears out
Traction 101
Professor rcdash
(that Advan tire you pictured did not fail because of traction failure!). You have to recognize those and adjust driving style accordingly.
No, I'm pretty sure I never made that claim. But the 5 water jugs in the back of my car and me sitting in the trunk on the dynos was due to traction failure. But maybe my tuner needed to modulate the throttle more on those dynos runs ...
So I will state again, for street driving (at any horsepower level!), the RE11 is one of the best tires available
And I'm going to heartily disagree with you. And that's just that.
Lower gears is generalizing and obvious. But given the proper tire it can be close to a solution with the exception of 1st gear.
As for modulation, absolutely, and it also makes you slower.
Traction control, yours must function better than both my 05 or 07. My experience with this is simply to kill 70% of the engines power until you release throttle and let it reset. I experienced this when I accidentally left it on and was passed up by a Charger R/T. It was actually a funny story.
Putting a drag tire on a car for additional off the line traction also has compromises and its important to understand what you are giving up.
See my former post to the OP *thumbs up*
I can run an RE11 in gears 5 and 6 at 700 wtq without slipping. So for a pull on the highway, it does just fine and is a remarkably solid high speed tire that is also excellent on the twisties. Have had it past 170 mph on the airstrip.
Mind blowing bro. You got me there. That's definitely traction past 70mph. But then again, that's my claim per my statement. *Finger to my chin* and again we are replying to the OP about street driving and gaining traction somewhere below 100mph. Hmmm
To say it is only for a low boost DE reflects a lack of understanding on how to safely drive a high powered car (and perhaps that is why you describe your near fatalities with certain tires?). We may be saying the same thing but I think its important for drivers to understand that engines can be built to overpower any tire and there is not inherent safety at X power level using Y tire.
Odd, I'm accident free. Those near fatalities were near triple digit speed with traction and then sudden loss of traction. I'd go as far to say my understanding is the only reason I was able to regain control without regrettable events occurring.
There are always failure points for any given combination of horsepower at the wheels and tire combination - it may be on launch, it may be in the wet, it may be in the twisties, it may be in how it wears out
Traction 101
Professor rcdash
(that Advan tire you pictured did not fail because of traction failure!). You have to recognize those and adjust driving style accordingly.
No, I'm pretty sure I never made that claim. But the 5 water jugs in the back of my car and me sitting in the trunk on the dynos was due to traction failure. But maybe my tuner needed to modulate the throttle more on those dynos runs ...
So I will state again, for street driving (at any horsepower level!), the RE11 is one of the best tires available
And I'm going to heartily disagree with you. And that's just that.
See rebuttals
Last edited by Nismo350z#0310; 02-15-2016 at 03:02 PM.
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gotama (02-20-2016)
02-16-2016, 03:33 AM
#37
I drove nearly 4-5k miles on a pair of 275/40r17 Hoosier D.O.T. drag radials, traction was flat out amazing (I had the DR's paired with ProEFI traction control)... not very practical though for daily driving though, especially outside of AZ, haha
I'm going to switch over to Nitto NT05R's or 555R's though, hoping to get a little closer to 9k miles out of them.
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gotama (02-20-2016)
02-16-2016, 12:28 PM
#38
^ My rear brakes won't work with a 17 inch wheel unfortunately. I will be trying some Michellin PS Cup 2 tires soon. If those don't work well, I'll be going back to the RE-11 unless I'm on a track (and I think I can get a MT ET Streets to fit). The R888s provide better traction than the RE-11 but are so noisy and wear unevenly.
Last edited by rcdash; 02-16-2016 at 12:29 PM.
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gotama (02-20-2016)
02-17-2016, 06:34 AM
#39
New Member
Thread Starter
thx for the tyre suggestions, next year im gonna be running around 400-450 on my stock FI setup. What things should I consider to upgrade at this power band?
a. On tyres I seen I should get the R888 as suggested. thats sorted.
b. upgraded clutch. thats sorted too. I upgraded the clutch already.
c. stock suspensions and braking. Is this fine at this low boost power ?
Then after 2 years after i will be running a fully built motor 600hp @ 8k rpm. What things should I consider to upgrade at this power band?
a. Then i switch to wider R888 tyre setup as suggested
b. Upgrade suspension
c. Upgrade braking.
d. upgrade clutch. Mine could probably handle 600WHP got to check.
Does that sound good or am i missing anything else i need to upgrade?
a. On tyres I seen I should get the R888 as suggested. thats sorted.
b. upgraded clutch. thats sorted too. I upgraded the clutch already.
c. stock suspensions and braking. Is this fine at this low boost power ?
Then after 2 years after i will be running a fully built motor 600hp @ 8k rpm. What things should I consider to upgrade at this power band?
a. Then i switch to wider R888 tyre setup as suggested
b. Upgrade suspension
c. Upgrade braking.
d. upgrade clutch. Mine could probably handle 600WHP got to check.
Does that sound good or am i missing anything else i need to upgrade?
02-24-2016, 02:19 PM
#40
My car is setup for e85 and direct port methanol too. So those two will add some power by cooling the intake charge a lot, and allowing more timing.
I don't think you really need arp mains for 600whp. But I could be wrong. Pistons/rods, correct clearances are very important, l19's, rev up pump, cams, I have the rev up intake (shorter runners, help power up top cost me about $60) and I have long tubes to boot.
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gotama (02-25-2016)