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Quick update, looks like my Walbro 450's on its way out. I noticed the car was cutting boost and turning up the injectors at high RPM, etc. e85tz33 gave me his spare 450, I'll be dropping it later today and make a few test hits.
The pump had about 25k miles on it, primarily on E85
Last edited by thatv35guy; 07-05-2018 at 08:01 AM.
My new intercooler core finally came in from Titan Motorsports, it's a 1000hp Garrett core (23.7x12x3.8). Will have some custom end tanks thrown on soon.
I was originally thinking about just purchasing a Treadstone TR1245 intercooler but after doing some research on a few forums (EvoM, Yellow Bullet, etc.) I decided that the Garrett core was worth the extra money. Especially since I plan to max out my Pure upgraded GT3582R.
The Supra's alright, just not as fast as the VQ. :P
Picked up a few more parts for my car... I've been waiting several months for CJM's twin pumps to become available again, but looks like we're still at least two months out, so in the meantime I decided that I'm going to place a Kenne Bell Boost-a-Pump on my Walbro 450lph fuel pump. I figure that should be enough to get me car up to about 700whp.
And my driver seat has been wearing quite badly so I decided to pickup a recline-able Sparco seat.
Latest on my car, the Kenne Bell Boost-A-Pump worked almost too well, turned the boost up to 20 psi and grenaded the transmission almost instantly, picked up a CD009 the other day to swap in. The car was on the original CD003 so I was half expecting this at some point.
Hey question for you, have you or ever heard of anyone's CD009 locking its self into a gear? I went to pass someone night before last and decided to be dcks and speed up as i went to pass them so i topped out 4th. I went to go into 5 and the shiftier wouldn't move at all. I didn't want to slam it forward just in case it was destroyed could limp it home in 4th. Once i got down to 30-40 mph it came out and went back in to gear like normal. I tried to recreate the scenario but it never acted up again.
Hey question for you, have you or ever heard of anyone's CD009 locking its self into a gear? I went to pass someone night before last and decided to be dcks and speed up as i went to pass them so i topped out 4th. I went to go into 5 and the shiftier wouldn't move at all. I didn't want to slam it forward just in case it was destroyed could limp it home in 4th. Once i got down to 30-40 mph it came out and went back in to gear like normal. I tried to recreate the scenario but it never acted up again.
Sorry to thread jack.
Never heard of that on a CD009, I'd take a peak under the shift boot though, wtfmike had issues getting into 5th gear, he thought his transmission or clutch was done for but it actually just looked like the bolts holding the shifter to the bracket had all backed out.
Sorry to get off topic, but do you have any pics you can share how you wired up the Kenne Bell BAP to reference? Buying one tonight and I am crap with electronics and wiring. Only seeing videos with mustangs and domestics. I get the boost reference Hobbs switch but everything else I am struggling to wrap my head around.
I think I remember the wiring going like this: The red wire without the fuse goes to your pump power. The other red wire with the fuse gets battery power via a relay. The black ground goes right to ground. And the BAS goes to your relay/hobbs switch. I'm pretty sure that's how we wired it. Except on his car the BAS wire went to his ProEFI.
I think I remember the wiring going like this: The red wire without the fuse goes to your pump power. The other red wire with the fuse gets battery power via a relay. The black ground goes right to ground. And the BAS goes to your relay/hobbs switch. I'm pretty sure that's how we wired it. Except on his car the BAS wire went to his ProEFI.
Just so I fully Understand, I'm gonna repeat what I think you are telling me (Sorry to thatV35guy for derailing).
Red Wire With Fuse ---> To a relay or straight to battery?
Red Wire Without Fuse ---> Goes to Fuel pump wire going to fuel pump?
Black wire w/ Ground ---> to Ground (easy enough...)
BAS Black wire ---> to Hobbs switch (which only needs this wire to function properly)
Tried to understand the chart below before asking the question, maybe I'm just over thinking it.
Just so I fully Understand, I'm gonna repeat what I think you are telling me (Sorry to thatV35guy for derailing).
Red Wire With Fuse ---> To a relay or straight to battery?
Red Wire Without Fuse ---> Goes to Fuel pump wire going to fuel pump?
Black wire w/ Ground ---> to Ground (easy enough...)
BAS Black wire ---> to Hobbs switch (which only needs this wire to function properly)
Tried to understand the chart below before asking the question, maybe I'm just over thinking it.
You got it right. I assume you currently have your pump hardwired to the battery with a relay, right?
The red wire with the fuse goes to the relay that is getting battery power.
You got it right. I assume you currently have your pump hardwired to the battery with a relay, right?
The red wire with the fuse goes to the relay that is getting battery power.
Ok, I have not done the pump hardwire yet, i think Bealljk posted how he did it on his thread. So there is more to it then.
Thanks for your help!
Edit: Starts on post #633 on his thread, bookmarking it here so i remember.
Last edited by BluestreamDE; 10-11-2018 at 08:28 PM.
I'll post-up my schematic as well ... I am 'documenting' all my gaggles of wires and hoses in autocad for the archive and/or when I have to dig into the mess. Couldnt have done it without you guys!
Made a bunch of updates to the car since I last posted in posted in this thread, among them a Driveshaft Shop aluminum driveshaft, Bell Raceworks differential brance, swapped out the OEM rear Brembo brakes to make way for a pair of 15" Weld RTS wheels w/555R drag radials, got my Garrett intercooler fabricated too, etc.
07-05-2018, 07:52 AM
