shop that works?
05-26-2016, 07:18 PM
#41
I'll check back in a few years to find you asking for more advice you won't take. I told you so. Next time you're in the corner watching your wife get stuffed like a Turkey on Thanksgiving by mandingo, maybe do this
05-28-2016, 05:00 PM
#43
New Member
Thread Starter
Car moving...again
Jtran has accomplished very little in 6 months so the car is now going to SOHO in NC...NIK seems like a straight up guy, and, being one of the owners, he can't fk around too long w/o losing $....Unlike other shops that get their 10/hr "mechanic" to work on the car.
Jtrans ideas of reinstalling the water cooled oil filter sandwich plate and new maradyne dual fans did little to solve the overheating issue. Comuniucating with them was difficult at best. their shop "manager" is a former customer and not adequate in the role of manager. I had to just about threaten him just to take a few pics to show me evidence of any work done.
Johnnie may be good at tuning (I don't know because he never got my car on the dyno), but the rest of their team are low rent workers..
Ron Bergholtz left so I wouldn't trust any engine to be built their.
In summation, in 6 months only 3500 worth of labor was performed, and that was bolt ons.
So, adios Jtran...the hype was just that...HYPE...another one bites the dust...
GTM, SFR, JTRAN.....next up, SOHO!
BTW, alberto is one ugly mutherfcker!
Jtrans ideas of reinstalling the water cooled oil filter sandwich plate and new maradyne dual fans did little to solve the overheating issue. Comuniucating with them was difficult at best. their shop "manager" is a former customer and not adequate in the role of manager. I had to just about threaten him just to take a few pics to show me evidence of any work done.
Johnnie may be good at tuning (I don't know because he never got my car on the dyno), but the rest of their team are low rent workers..
Ron Bergholtz left so I wouldn't trust any engine to be built their.
In summation, in 6 months only 3500 worth of labor was performed, and that was bolt ons.
So, adios Jtran...the hype was just that...HYPE...another one bites the dust...
GTM, SFR, JTRAN.....next up, SOHO!
BTW, alberto is one ugly mutherfcker!
Last edited by ogiehooker; 05-28-2016 at 05:02 PM.
05-28-2016, 07:33 PM
#44
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so it sounds like your running twin turbos on your built motor....and you have an overheating issue......
to start from the very beginning this would ensure that nothing is overheating
engine block has been resurfaced properly
cylinder heads has been resurfaced properly
good quality head gaskets - hr head gaskets oem or hks or cometic
torqued down heads to proper spec to provide proper seal
thermostat brand new
big racing radiator - mishimoto or koyo
oil cooler installed - optional
fans are all hooked up properly and turning on automatically on its own
all water hose lines are hooked up tight and sealed and you dont visually see any coolant leaking underneath car.
the big thing of course is making sure all the air is out of the radiator system if their is bubbles in the system it will always show the needle climbing to H.
other than this their should not be any problems...i would have all of this checked out to remove all amount of doubt.
if their is still problems and you checked off my list, i hate to say this but their is a possibility that your engine is warped possibly cracked cylinder heads or block that are having internal leaks that you cant see might have to replace the motor and reinstall and remachine everything.
everything your describing is outside of the motor.
i would begin through a relatively logical process and just tear everything apart down to the bare engine block and have all of that rechecked by a reputable machine shop both the heads and engine block then work your way all the way to putting everything back together to isolate the problem little by little eventually at some point you will find the problem.
if you want to get real extreme about the situation to fix the overheating issue,
get a used engine take it all apart take it to kyle at import parts pro in texas have him re do everything measure every section and remachine.
paint your block with some hi temp paint
paint your hot side turbo with hi temp paint
wrap with turbo blankets
run evans coolant
get high quality fans
big radiator
racing thermostat
giant intercooler
that should ultimately solve the overheating if were talking about just driving around town.
but you also have to understand i talk to a lot of track guys that run v6 turbo cars and they say overheating is inevitable with a turbo car they cannot run endless laps on the track without taking a break to let the engine cool down. even with all the cooling mods.
to start from the very beginning this would ensure that nothing is overheating
engine block has been resurfaced properly
cylinder heads has been resurfaced properly
good quality head gaskets - hr head gaskets oem or hks or cometic
torqued down heads to proper spec to provide proper seal
thermostat brand new
big racing radiator - mishimoto or koyo
oil cooler installed - optional
fans are all hooked up properly and turning on automatically on its own
all water hose lines are hooked up tight and sealed and you dont visually see any coolant leaking underneath car.
the big thing of course is making sure all the air is out of the radiator system if their is bubbles in the system it will always show the needle climbing to H.
other than this their should not be any problems...i would have all of this checked out to remove all amount of doubt.
if their is still problems and you checked off my list, i hate to say this but their is a possibility that your engine is warped possibly cracked cylinder heads or block that are having internal leaks that you cant see might have to replace the motor and reinstall and remachine everything.
everything your describing is outside of the motor.
i would begin through a relatively logical process and just tear everything apart down to the bare engine block and have all of that rechecked by a reputable machine shop both the heads and engine block then work your way all the way to putting everything back together to isolate the problem little by little eventually at some point you will find the problem.
if you want to get real extreme about the situation to fix the overheating issue,
get a used engine take it all apart take it to kyle at import parts pro in texas have him re do everything measure every section and remachine.
paint your block with some hi temp paint
paint your hot side turbo with hi temp paint
wrap with turbo blankets
run evans coolant
get high quality fans
big radiator
racing thermostat
giant intercooler
that should ultimately solve the overheating if were talking about just driving around town.
but you also have to understand i talk to a lot of track guys that run v6 turbo cars and they say overheating is inevitable with a turbo car they cannot run endless laps on the track without taking a break to let the engine cool down. even with all the cooling mods.
Last edited by CK12983; 05-28-2016 at 07:57 PM.
06-09-2016, 12:10 PM
#46
New Member
Thread Starter
so it sounds like your running twin turbos on your built motor....and you have an overheating issue......
to start from the very beginning this would ensure that nothing is overheating
engine block has been resurfaced properly
cylinder heads has been resurfaced properly
good quality head gaskets - hr head gaskets oem or hks or cometic
torqued down heads to proper spec to provide proper seal
thermostat brand new
big racing radiator - mishimoto or koyo
oil cooler installed - optional
fans are all hooked up properly and turning on automatically on its own
all water hose lines are hooked up tight and sealed and you dont visually see any coolant leaking underneath car.
the big thing of course is making sure all the air is out of the radiator system if their is bubbles in the system it will always show the needle climbing to H.
other than this their should not be any problems...i would have all of this checked out to remove all amount of doubt.
if their is still problems and you checked off my list, i hate to say this but their is a possibility that your engine is warped possibly cracked cylinder heads or block that are having internal leaks that you cant see might have to replace the motor and reinstall and remachine everything.
everything your describing is outside of the motor.
i would begin through a relatively logical process and just tear everything apart down to the bare engine block and have all of that rechecked by a reputable machine shop both the heads and engine block then work your way all the way to putting everything back together to isolate the problem little by little eventually at some point you will find the problem.
if you want to get real extreme about the situation to fix the overheating issue,
get a used engine take it all apart take it to kyle at import parts pro in texas have him re do everything measure every section and remachine.
paint your block with some hi temp paint
paint your hot side turbo with hi temp paint
wrap with turbo blankets
run evans coolant
get high quality fans
big radiator
racing thermostat
giant intercooler
that should ultimately solve the overheating if were talking about just driving around town.
but you also have to understand i talk to a lot of track guys that run v6 turbo cars and they say overheating is inevitable with a turbo car they cannot run endless laps on the track without taking a break to let the engine cool down. even with all the cooling mods.
to start from the very beginning this would ensure that nothing is overheating
engine block has been resurfaced properly
cylinder heads has been resurfaced properly
good quality head gaskets - hr head gaskets oem or hks or cometic
torqued down heads to proper spec to provide proper seal
thermostat brand new
big racing radiator - mishimoto or koyo
oil cooler installed - optional
fans are all hooked up properly and turning on automatically on its own
all water hose lines are hooked up tight and sealed and you dont visually see any coolant leaking underneath car.
the big thing of course is making sure all the air is out of the radiator system if their is bubbles in the system it will always show the needle climbing to H.
other than this their should not be any problems...i would have all of this checked out to remove all amount of doubt.
if their is still problems and you checked off my list, i hate to say this but their is a possibility that your engine is warped possibly cracked cylinder heads or block that are having internal leaks that you cant see might have to replace the motor and reinstall and remachine everything.
everything your describing is outside of the motor.
i would begin through a relatively logical process and just tear everything apart down to the bare engine block and have all of that rechecked by a reputable machine shop both the heads and engine block then work your way all the way to putting everything back together to isolate the problem little by little eventually at some point you will find the problem.
if you want to get real extreme about the situation to fix the overheating issue,
get a used engine take it all apart take it to kyle at import parts pro in texas have him re do everything measure every section and remachine.
paint your block with some hi temp paint
paint your hot side turbo with hi temp paint
wrap with turbo blankets
run evans coolant
get high quality fans
big radiator
racing thermostat
giant intercooler
that should ultimately solve the overheating if were talking about just driving around town.
but you also have to understand i talk to a lot of track guys that run v6 turbo cars and they say overheating is inevitable with a turbo car they cannot run endless laps on the track without taking a break to let the engine cool down. even with all the cooling mods.
The engine is COMPLETELY brand new top to bottom and has an HR style modified block so air retention should not be an issue as the high point is the rad cap now.
A full write up will be posted after the car leaves Jtran tomorrow....go there for bolt ons or tune only...they can't seem to handle anything difficult and Johnnie is too spread thin....extremely poor communication, had to threaten to have photos of work done...6 months and only 30-40 billable hrs of work...pathetic.....
09-10-2016, 06:55 AM
#49
New Member
Thread Starter
soho
Yup, SOHO is awesome...they actually accomplish goals and do things correctly.
My overheating issue seems to have come from one of the previous shops pouring radiator stop leak in the radiator and clogging the rad., block, water pump, thermostat etc.....of course no one admits to doing it. Another 10k fckup.
Starting over (3rd time), with an RJM closed deck block, ALL hot parts ceramic coated or anti friction coated, and all new coolant system.
The SFR built engine with 100 miles on it shows about 20k miles worth of wear on the rod bearings according to Nik.
Hoping for a December finish time...calico coatings has the internals to coat as we speak.
My overheating issue seems to have come from one of the previous shops pouring radiator stop leak in the radiator and clogging the rad., block, water pump, thermostat etc.....of course no one admits to doing it. Another 10k fckup.
Starting over (3rd time), with an RJM closed deck block, ALL hot parts ceramic coated or anti friction coated, and all new coolant system.
The SFR built engine with 100 miles on it shows about 20k miles worth of wear on the rod bearings according to Nik.
Hoping for a December finish time...calico coatings has the internals to coat as we speak.
Last edited by ogiehooker; 09-10-2016 at 07:00 AM. Reason: sp
09-10-2016, 08:55 PM
#50
When you say the car is over heating, is the oil temp going to high or the coolant temp?
If it's coolant, I would consider draining it, and filling it back up with all water and some dish soap (dish soap breaks the surface tension of the water so the water "grabs" the curves of the block better, taking heat out more effectively). Then bleed again. Pay attention to the coolant that comes out. Was it filled enough? Was there debris or oil in the coolant?
I would even consider doing a coolant pressure test too.
If it's coolant, I would consider draining it, and filling it back up with all water and some dish soap (dish soap breaks the surface tension of the water so the water "grabs" the curves of the block better, taking heat out more effectively). Then bleed again. Pay attention to the coolant that comes out. Was it filled enough? Was there debris or oil in the coolant?
I would even consider doing a coolant pressure test too.
Like several of us tried to say, it was a cooling system problem. It definitely wouldn't take 10k to figure that out.
If you had done maybe an afternoon worth of testing you could have figured out that radiator was plugged, gotten some new hoses and radiators and had it back on the road, in a day of work.
09-11-2016, 04:34 AM
#51
New Member
Thread Starter
coolant
And as I have said, I am not the one working on the car......the 10k is for disassembling the engine and starting from scratch as EVERYTHING is covered and/blocked with copper colored radiator stop leak......A new radiator, thermostat and hoses wouldn't have, and didn't fix the issue. ALL the exterior elements were checked by 2 shops and ultimately, it was necessary to open the engine.
After seeing the interior, including bad bearings after 100 miles from the SFR rebuild, the decision was made to reassemble the engine correctly and with better parts that have come available in the 5.5 yrs that the car has been under construction. Closed deck block, ceramic coated heads, valves, new coatings throughout, new L 19's and ARP main atuds etc. etc.....
Not all of us have the time, space, equipment or ability to do their own work so finding a reputable shop is sometimes difficult. INHO, Nik at SOHO has been the only person worth a damn so far.
After seeing the interior, including bad bearings after 100 miles from the SFR rebuild, the decision was made to reassemble the engine correctly and with better parts that have come available in the 5.5 yrs that the car has been under construction. Closed deck block, ceramic coated heads, valves, new coatings throughout, new L 19's and ARP main atuds etc. etc.....
Not all of us have the time, space, equipment or ability to do their own work so finding a reputable shop is sometimes difficult. INHO, Nik at SOHO has been the only person worth a damn so far.
Last edited by ogiehooker; 09-11-2016 at 04:42 AM. Reason: sp
09-16-2016, 02:00 PM
#53
New Member
Thread Starter
wrist pins
Str8t.....got the arias extreme duty pistons on the second rebuild....wondering if they come with stout pins or not....if you would be so kind as to state the brand of wrist pins you are referring to, I'll get SOHO to order the....Do you know if they work with buttons, as the stroker from got thatfcking money uses them.
09-18-2016, 03:10 AM
#55
New Member
Thread Starter
pins
Tks for the great advice guys.....I researched the arias extreme duty piston set, and they state that they come with tool steel, heavy duty pins, IIRC.....
Nik at SOHO seems to know his stuff and has been given the go ahead to repair or replace anything that is suspect.
TKS once again!
Nik at SOHO seems to know his stuff and has been given the go ahead to repair or replace anything that is suspect.
TKS once again!
09-21-2016, 10:55 AM
#57
New Member
Thread Starter
backup shop
.....need a backup shop..... SOHO isn't working out....basic wasting of time fik ups...
motor is apart completely......don't know that I want to go to Dynosty with their long wait times.....
Ideas?
motor is apart completely......don't know that I want to go to Dynosty with their long wait times.....
Ideas?
Last edited by ogiehooker; 09-21-2016 at 11:37 AM. Reason: sp
09-21-2016, 12:05 PM
#58
If they took the motor apart then they should have the chance to re assemble if they are willing. Sending your car to another shop in boxes will turn out horrible for sure. Def will cost more money with mis placed parts etc.. Just for the sake of costing more money
