How to prime a fresh built motor??
06-20-2016, 06:14 PM
#1
New Member
Thread Starter
How to prime a fresh built motor??
So I searched and searched for proper procedures to prime a vq. My search seemed to be a dead end. Can anyone please explain the proper way to prime these motors?? A friend of mine said I can use his tool he has to prime. Pressurized tank of some sort idk. I'm really just looking to understand the right way to prime before I do the start. Any help or and explanation as to how to do it would be very appreciated!!! Thxs
06-20-2016, 06:22 PM
#2
I'm fairly certain the priming is done during reassembly/initial assembly. If it was professionally built is should be done already. I'm kind of confused as most who build new motors have a good amount of subject matter knowledge, can you provide more details? Has it been sitting/fresh build etc?
06-20-2016, 06:26 PM
#3
New Member
Thread Starter
It's a fresh build. And how is that possible when there is no oil in it. Assembly lube on all parts but other then that you have to get oil in it and get it up top to all the critical parts. Definitely needs to be primed.
06-20-2016, 06:34 PM
#4
Registered User
I guess.fill it with fluids take out fuses for fuel pump and ignition...prime away till you get oil pressure on your gauge...when engine was assembled all the bearings etc should have assembly lube on them for initial movement
Also people prime engines using drill and socket spining oil pump itself....
Also people prime engines using drill and socket spining oil pump itself....
06-20-2016, 06:37 PM
#6
New Member
Thread Starter
Yeah I was told that to but I also read that out oil pumps won't build psi under just cranking. Idk I could be wrong. I been told pressurizing the oil galleries with a tank is the way to do it. I just don't know where to tie into a oil gallery.
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07-03-2016, 05:11 AM
#10
New Member
Thread Starter
Thxs bud. I'm either doing that or a buddy of mine has a pressurized oil tank for priming motors. Said I could use it to prime. Just ever since I had my oil starvation issue I'm freaked out.
07-03-2016, 12:52 PM
#11
Registered User
So I searched and searched for proper procedures to prime a vq. My search seemed to be a dead end. Can anyone please explain the proper way to prime these motors?? A friend of mine said I can use his tool he has to prime. Pressurized tank of some sort idk. I'm really just looking to understand the right way to prime before I do the start. Any help or and explanation as to how to do it would be very appreciated!!! Thxs
take out all the spark plugs
pour a teaspoon of oil in each cylinder
than start the car with your foot all the way down on the accelerator pedal
hear 4 cranks then stop do this 3 times. then your good to go. re attach everything back together.
07-03-2016, 07:27 PM
#12
I'm fairly certain the priming is done during reassembly/initial assembly. If it was professionally built is should be done already. I'm kind of confused as most who build new motors have a good amount of subject matter knowledge, can you provide more details? Has it been sitting/fresh build etc?
Just disconnect your coil packs and crank it over for a bit. Don't go too long, but after 10 seconds (I always go for extra time, same with my buddies just to be safe), you should have built oil pressure. Then plug your coils back in THE RIGHT WAY, and let her rip.
Last edited by Resmarted; 07-03-2016 at 07:32 PM.
07-03-2016, 07:30 PM
#13
You can oil the cylinders if you want, but I don't advise flooring your car lmao. That's not a good idea at all. Good way to hit rev limiter on a cold not even started engine, which is a dumbass thing to do.
Yet another time where justin is clueless.
You're supposed to let the car idle for about 5 minutes and change the oil and filter immediately. As in let it warm up.
The idea being if there are any issues mechanically, letting the car idle will prevent excess damage (vs reving it up like a f*cking ****) and you can inspect the filter for debris.
Mess with the tune until you can get it to hold idle. If adjusting the tune doesn't work, then you likely have an issue. Ground might be loose, coil packs incorrectly installed, mechanical issues (jumped timing perhaps).
Last edited by Resmarted; 07-03-2016 at 07:33 PM.
07-04-2016, 04:35 AM
#14
Lmao.
You can oil the cylinders if you want, but I don't advise flooring your car lmao. That's not a good idea at all. Good way to hit rev limiter on a cold not even started engine, which is a dumbass thing to do.
Yet another time where justin is clueless.
You're supposed to let the car idle for about 5 minutes and change the oil and filter immediately. As in let it warm up.
The idea being if there are any issues mechanically, letting the car idle will prevent excess damage (vs reving it up like a f*cking ****) and you can inspect the filter for debris.
Mess with the tune until you can get it to hold idle. If adjusting the tune doesn't work, then you likely have an issue. Ground might be loose, coil packs incorrectly installed, mechanical issues (jumped timing perhaps).
You can oil the cylinders if you want, but I don't advise flooring your car lmao. That's not a good idea at all. Good way to hit rev limiter on a cold not even started engine, which is a dumbass thing to do.
Yet another time where justin is clueless.
You're supposed to let the car idle for about 5 minutes and change the oil and filter immediately. As in let it warm up.
The idea being if there are any issues mechanically, letting the car idle will prevent excess damage (vs reving it up like a f*cking ****) and you can inspect the filter for debris.
Mess with the tune until you can get it to hold idle. If adjusting the tune doesn't work, then you likely have an issue. Ground might be loose, coil packs incorrectly installed, mechanical issues (jumped timing perhaps).
The following users liked this post:
iideadeyeii (07-05-2016)
07-04-2016, 03:24 PM
#15
They should have lubed parts during assembly.
If your uncertain or not comfortable just filling up the motor with oil and fluids and cranking it. Take out the rockers, cam shaft, crank shaft and coat them and the pistons/rings.
Let it idle and run a basic motor break in. Aka for the first 500 miles don't rev more than half of the red line. In our cars that would me 3.5 or 4K RPM.
Then after 500 to 1,000 you can get closer to the red line but I wouldn't ride it. After about 800-1,000 to me motors are broken in. I also change my oil at both 500 and 1,000 miles due to shavings and other contaminants that come from a new tight motor and metals.
Some people feel fine after 500, some just drop in and go. All what you deem fit with your equipment.
If your uncertain or not comfortable just filling up the motor with oil and fluids and cranking it. Take out the rockers, cam shaft, crank shaft and coat them and the pistons/rings.
Let it idle and run a basic motor break in. Aka for the first 500 miles don't rev more than half of the red line. In our cars that would me 3.5 or 4K RPM.
Then after 500 to 1,000 you can get closer to the red line but I wouldn't ride it. After about 800-1,000 to me motors are broken in. I also change my oil at both 500 and 1,000 miles due to shavings and other contaminants that come from a new tight motor and metals.
Some people feel fine after 500, some just drop in and go. All what you deem fit with your equipment.
07-04-2016, 03:38 PM
#16
New Member
iTrader: (6)
Lmao.
You can oil the cylinders if you want, but I don't advise flooring your car lmao. That's not a good idea at all. Good way to hit rev limiter on a cold not even started engine, which is a dumbass thing to do.
Yet another time where justin is clueless.
You're supposed to let the car idle for about 5 minutes and change the oil and filter immediately. As in let it warm up.
The idea being if there are any issues mechanically, letting the car idle will prevent excess damage (vs reving it up like a f*cking ****) and you can inspect the filter for debris.
Mess with the tune until you can get it to hold idle. If adjusting the tune doesn't work, then you likely have an issue. Ground might be loose, coil packs incorrectly installed, mechanical issues (jumped timing perhaps).
You can oil the cylinders if you want, but I don't advise flooring your car lmao. That's not a good idea at all. Good way to hit rev limiter on a cold not even started engine, which is a dumbass thing to do.
Yet another time where justin is clueless.
You're supposed to let the car idle for about 5 minutes and change the oil and filter immediately. As in let it warm up.
The idea being if there are any issues mechanically, letting the car idle will prevent excess damage (vs reving it up like a f*cking ****) and you can inspect the filter for debris.
Mess with the tune until you can get it to hold idle. If adjusting the tune doesn't work, then you likely have an issue. Ground might be loose, coil packs incorrectly installed, mechanical issues (jumped timing perhaps).
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