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Hey all, I'm looking into rebuilding the Greddy TD06SH 20g turbos on my Z this winter and would like to upgrade them while they are off and getting rebuilt. I would like to do a compressor wheel upgrade and also upgrade anything else I can while doing so. I am having a bit of trouble finding specific parts for these turbos if anyone could chime in and give me some details of what specific parts I can upgrade these turbos to without replacing the whole assembly I would much appreciate it! Thanks in advance! For a little bit of background info Im looking for around 700whp. I know the standard 20g's are plenty capable of making that number but just in case I want to push it further down the road I would like to upgrade them while they are off this winter.
I ended up ordering the td05 td06 upgraded complete superback kits from Gpopshop with the steel 360* thrust bearing hoping they will hold up to antilag a litttle better. I also ordered 2 billet 20g compressor wheels from xsturboboost. When i have time to pull the motor and get the turbos off i will do a review on the difference. At the same time i am also heat wrapping the sh*t out of everything and installing the stage 2 CJM return kit and 1000cc DW injectors i purchased. I also purchased a crawford intake plenum, solid Z1 motor mounts, Z1 strut bar, nismo thermostat, NWP 75mm throttle body, and a few other misc. items i will be repairing while the motor is out. Hopefully when the weather warms up here ill be able to have the car running and tuned in a few weeks.
I ended up ordering the td05 td06 upgraded complete superback kits from Gpopshop with the steel 360* thrust bearing hoping they will hold up to antilag a litttle better. I also ordered 2 billet 20g compressor wheels from xsturboboost. When i have time to pull the motor and get the turbos off i will do a review on the difference. At the same time i am also heat wrapping the sh*t out of everything and installing the stage 2 CJM return kit and 1000cc DW injectors i purchased. I also purchased a crawford intake plenum, solid Z1 motor mounts, Z1 strut bar, nismo thermostat, NWP 75mm throttle body, and a few other misc. items i will be repairing while the motor is out. Hopefully when the weather warms up here ill be able to have the car running and tuned in a few weeks.
I wouldnt wrap the headers ... few reasons why ...
unless you wrap them damn-near 100% consistently (which is pretty hard to do on these headers - assuming you have the cast greddy headers??) you are going to create hot-spots which can lead to cracking. If the headers crack its a massive pain in the *** - it's a $1000 to $1500 for greddy replacement(if you can find them) or $2000 as a replacement header and then it's massive pita to get the old ones out and new ones in ....
#2 the clearances in the engine bay are minimal for this kit ... the 1/8" to 1/4" of wrap and the metal ties dont seem like a lot but it doesnt leave much for expansion/tolerances...
if you have the waste gates out now consider inspecting them and replacing the diaphrams (maybe for the BOV as well). I also added the waste gate relocation kit on mine as I had waste gate issues and it took 20-25 hours to get each waste gate out how greddy designed them.
I also had the first pipe after the compressor housings welded on ... I would highly recommend this as the clearnances are very tight (especially on the passenger side) and the couplers are prone to melting against the headers
I had a good experience with G Pop Shop ... let us know what you think of them.
also interested on seeing how your solid mounts interact with the drivers side IC piping.
Well unfortunately I think I already have a cracked manifold to deal with. That was part of the misc. repairs I will be doing while the engine is out. I am a welder/technician by trade and feel confident about welding the crack and it lasting. I've welded plenty of cast manifolds in the past with no issues to speak of. I am definitely going to wrap the manifolds because of the clearance between the silicone couplers and the manifolds. I have considered deleting those and welding the pipe but I will have limited time with the engine out as I am using a friend's lift and won't have a Tig on site for fitment. Also on the driver's side the manifold melted clean through the A/C line that runs over top of it haha. Which is why I am wrapping the manifolds in the first place. If I was a few years younger I would rip the A/C out and call it a day.
. Now about that wastegate relocation kit. I think my car has it but I'm not 100% sure. I will post some pics up and see what u think. I can access the wastegates fairly easy as I had to remove them when I pulled the tranny to replace the clutch and rear main seal.
Well unfortunately I think I already have a cracked manifold to deal with. That was part of the misc. repairs I will be doing while the engine is out. I am a welder/technician by trade and feel confident about welding the crack and it lasting. I've welded plenty of cast manifolds in the past with no issues to speak of. I am definitely going to wrap the manifolds because of the clearance between the silicone couplers and the manifolds. I have considered deleting those and welding the pipe but I will have limited time with the engine out as I am using a friend's lift and won't have a Tig on site for fitment. Also on the driver's side the manifold melted clean through the A/C line that runs over top of it haha. Which is why I am wrapping the manifolds in the first place. If I was a few years younger I would rip the A/C out and call it a day.
Now about that wastegate relocation kit. I think my car has it but I'm not 100% sure. I will post some pics up and see what u think. I can access the wastegates fairly easy as I had to remove them when I pulled the tranny to replace the clutch and rear main seal.
I wont argue with ya as it sounds like your mind is made up and ultimately it's your car ... I've burnt through two couplers and the third was ~1/4" thick and showed burn-marks...
so between the insulation and the 1/4" coupler there was zero clearance between the chassis and the manifolds...even with my welded pipes and no wrap theres roughlty 1/4" to 3/8" clearance between the chassis/pipe and pipe header.
pretty cool that you can self-perform the cast welding. I can sloppy mig and actually looking to pick up a TIG over the next few weeks.
Just because you wrap the headers, the temperature of fiberglass insulation will be just as hot as the exhaust mani/pipe...Insulation doesn't stop heat transfer, it only slows it down...after a few minutes that insulation will be just as hot as the metal it's wrapped around.
additionally - if the insulation soaks any oil, coolants or misc fluids it holds it and it'll smoke like a mother-funker - and seeing that the valve covers and the coolant pipe are directly above the headers ... plan on it.
But, don't take my word for it...try it out and see if there is any additional melting / smoking issues.
My original plan was to have everything ceramic coated inside and out. Manifolds, turbine housings, wastegate tubes, and downpipes but the local guy wanted a little over $700 to do it and i really dont want to spend that much. As far as welding the cast manifolds goes the biggest trick is to drill small holes at the ends of the crack and grind out the crack into a V shape so the metal can fill. I use a mig welder with copper core wire and make sure to preheat the cast to 2-300 degrees before welding. I have done it on a few customer cars that have requested it because the manifolds were to expensive blah blah blah. And i check the welds when the cars come back for service work and have not had an issue with any of them yet. I may consider having the manifolds and turbine housings coated and just wrap the downpipes and wastegate tubes to save some money.
11-21-2016, 09:48 AM
TD06SH 20G turbo upgrades
