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aarrgghh, nicely done. I've not seen anyone use a solid state relay and the Haltech before this on our platform. The only recommendation I would make to your set up is to make the fans easily removable without having to remove the shroud because the fans will fail and it's messy to remove the coolant tubing to get the shroud off just to get a failed fan off. After I had to do it the first time, I used rivet nuts so next time around will be easier. My first set of 14" SPALs lasted about 4 years (both failed about 1 yr apart). Now on 2nd set. They move a lot of air.
EDIT: The crydom SSR is pricey - and I see you put a heat sink on it. job done right!
My trick for this is to cut the bottom off an old washer fluid bottle from the gas station, place a bunch of shop towels then this under the passenger side return hose. Then you can pull the hose and cable tie it up to itself or the strut bar so it doesn't drain. A little bit of coolant from the rad side goes into the container. Pull the container and the shroud pops right out. But I'll have a look at your solution when I reassemble the car next.
I'm surprised using an SSR isn't too common. That way the fans aren't screaming like the bat mobile if they don't need too.
To get the current rating with reasonable temperature derating needed both the 100amp and heat sink. As the fans keep my investment in the engine cool, it's worth it.
The alternative is a PWM fan controller (manufactured by DIF, Delta) but getting a quality unit is a little hit or miss (my first DIF controller died in a year; had to move it to someplace that got more airflow). If/when my controller dies, I will use an SSR.
how does the stock fan shroud compare with the aftermarket shroud and SPAL fans? i have 12" Spal (not sure which type) and wondering if i should try and go back to stock fans...
The CFM will vary with the pressure drop across the rad, etc.
The Spal fans have a chart for this. I graphed several while making a call on which to use:
The blue line is the 14" fan I bought, the green is a 12" high output. At the pressure drop I measured (5.5 mmH20) the 14" pulls more.
Anyway, you'd have to find a way to measure the amount of air moved, but without changing the pressure behind the fans as that will affect the measurement. I've seen something similar done with building vents, and they use a calibrated box that pipes down to a 12" ish size tube that they have a MAF in. You'd have to pull an engine out to get enough space for the measurement rig.
