Where did you guys drill and tap your valve cover filter?

What did you guys do with the vacume line that hooks up to the OEM intake. The charge pope into the TB doesn't have a port from it. And it's giving me vacume leak issues. What did you use to bypass or delete it?

If you got pics, post em please. I'm sure I can't be the only one with some questions haha

Feel free to post your questions on the BP single DE kit if you got em. I'm sure my self and others can offer some insight or solutions as well as Sasha frequents around here.

 

Ill bet if you ask Boosted Probe, he will give you exactly what your looking for.

 

Yea I s talked to Sasha a few times. I'm sure he'll reply.

I just wanted to see what some other guys running these kits did.

 

The kit comes with a breather filter, which attaches to the OEM hose that you referred to...the one that would hook up to the OEM intake.

This allows the crankcase to breathe, or relieve any positive pressure that builds up.

 

Oh, so both of my questions solve each other? Lol

The filter pod for breathing, plugs the vacume hose I can't find a place for that went to the OEM intake?

Who woulda thought haha

 

I've got a new question then.

If not for the breather filter, what are the supplied drill bit and taps for?

Cause the kit if fully installed and I never used those. Only thing not on yet is the breather filter.

 

Ok having another issue. I've tried to get my car tuned 3 times. But when it's rev'd it goes from rich, then on the come down RPMs goes leans tries to catch at 100rpm then dies.

I thought that was because I have a dam turbo, but the tuners told me I have a vacume leak and so far I've paid $1,200 in tunes and my car doesn't even rev and idle. The tuner said it's super sluggish too.

The first 2 tunes I did have the o2 waste gate ports open so I guess that could have leaked. But now they are plugged and they keep telling me I have a "vacume leak".

The only thing that's open is the exhaust extra hung hole after the turbo and the H2o and the other MSV or what ever plug holes after the waste gate is open.

Can someone help me. I have a 4th appointment this Saturday and I'm not spending another $300 just for them to put my **** on the dyno and not tune my fckn car.

As far as I know everything is in right, no leaks in the injectors, plenum gasket is on fine, the car ran perfectly stock so I know parts aren't out of service life.

It idles just fine all day. But it can't hold idle after a rev? Isn't this just a tune problem?

 

This sounds like a tune problem. What shop is doing the work?

If you had a vacuum leak it would be most noticeable at idle, especially if MAF sensors are used. What is your vacuum at idle?

It is possible to have a boost leak, so make sure all your couplers are over the pipe, and that the T-bolt clamps are good...they don't need to be overly tight, but they need to be on the pipe and over the coupler.

 

Yea thats what I think as well... As for the tune shop Im going to Churches Auto Tuning here in LA off of very high recommendation from this forum and net reviews.

Im not sure about exact vacuum rating at idle.

As far as I see all couplers are on tight and properly. Only one that is close to the edge is the pipe that connects the TB charge pipe to the s pipe leading to the intercooler through the rad.

Sasha look at the results/logging I took in my second thread. What are your thoughts?

https://my350z.com/forum/2003-2009-n...l#post10914038

at one point 104 AFR after hitting 4k rpm on the come down rpms...

I think its trying to lean to compensate for that crazy rich AFR and over compensating killing it self at idle.